TA Aluminum block leaking oil?

[toomanymodz]

If your engine is leaking oil off of the back of the oil pan... Read on...

The way the main cap and block meet on the front driver's side is different that a factory 109 block. The front cover has a raised portion that is supposed to press against the gasket and provide the seal.

Since the TA block has a portion that goes outside of this raised area, oil can escape and run down to the oil pan rail. From there the oil will go along the pan rail and drip off of the back.

Here are some picture to illustrate. The solution is to either weld the front cover, or like I did, use JB Weld to build the area where the leak occurs.

Here is a photo of the front of the engine once the front cover has been removed:

Here is the problem area. This is a closeup of the front cover, driver's side. This is the dowel pin hole. Note how the raised portion is narrow and curved.

Here is a closeup of the gasket. I have purposely ripped the gasket so that the hole or gap is exposed. You can see how this hole extends beyond the imprint made by the front cover. Oil can come out of here and create a free oil spray for your undercarriage.

Here is some JB Weld that I just applied. After 4 hours it is hardened and ready to flat-file. You will want it flat and level with the raised portion that makes the seal. This provides pressure against the gasket in the problem area and prevents this leak.

 

[BEATAV8]

thanks for posting. great info.

 

[turbobitt]

This is the same for Stage 2 iron blocks.
AG.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Nice find.

 

[Pronto]

That leak must have been frustrating as hell! Glad you found out what was happening and solved it.

 

[750H.P.V6]

This is the same for Stage 2 iron blocks.
AG.

Allan,

I think this is only true of cross bolted On center blocks. Off center blocks don't have this problem.

Neal

 

[ravege]

The other board does have its uses every once in a while, post 17, check the date:

http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/s...7-ta-block-heads-street-motor-build-up-2.html

 

[toomanymodz]

The other board does have its uses every once in a while, post 17, check the date:

http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/s...7-ta-block-heads-street-motor-build-up-2.html

Actually, I found that post last year and sent it to the person building my engine. I repeatedly urged him to look at that area carefully and do the modification. He didn't. That is one of 4 different things that I've had to fix on this engine that was "professionally built".

 

[750H.P.V6]

Actually, I found that post last year and sent it to the person building my engine. I repeatedly urged him to look at that area carefully and do the modification. He didn't. That is one of 4 different things that I've had to fix on this engine that was "professionally built".

I feel your pain. When I bought my current car it had a fresh Stage II engine in it "professionally built" with receipts from a notable Buick builder in the Phoenix area. Suffice it to say when the timing chain broke because it hadn't been replaced during the rebuild I found all kinds of questionable things going on in the engine.

Neal

 

[toomanymodz]

I feel your pain. When I bought my current car it had a fresh Stage II engine in it "professionally built" with receipts from a notable Buick builder in the Phoenix area. Suffice it to say when the timing chain broke because it hadn't been replaced during the rebuild I found all kinds of questionable things going on in the engine.

Neal

I usually build my own engines and have done so since the 80's. And on the rare occasion that I've had someone else build it, on EVERY occasion I've had to fix something they did wrong. We're talking big names here and I won't mention any.

 

[FastDiesel]

I usually build my own engines and have done so since the 80's. And on the rare occasion that I've had someone else build it, on EVERY occasion I've had to fix something they did wrong. We're talking big names here and I won't mention any.

If i'm not mistaken.Didn't Don Cruz build your motor.You wrote that on the stage 2 pic thread.

 

[750H.P.V6]

I usually build my own engines and have done so since the 80's. And on the rare occasion that I've had someone else build it, on EVERY occasion I've had to fix something they did wrong. We're talking big names here and I won't mention any.

I've always built my own stuff too. On my current project the fresh motor was one of the selling points. I convinced myself I wouldn't have to worry about that aspect of the car. It turns out I was wrong.

Neal

 

[toomanymodz]

One engine was a 540 that I bought from a company in New York. To set the thrust, they banged the front timing cover and bent it. After just a few hundred miles the needle bearings fell out of the thrust button. Unbelievable. $13k for that motor and they did that. They slapped the parts together, used cheap pushrods that ended up snapping, didn't port-match the intake etc. These outfits just rush the engines to maximize their profits.

See, if I were to go into business building engines, I'd be working for $3/hour because I take my time and do everything right. It takes a lot of time to do things the right way.

 

[turbo89]

One engine was a 540 that I bought from a company in New York. To set the thrust, they banged the front timing cover and bent it. After just a few hundred miles the needle bearings fell out of the thrust button. Unbelievable. $13k for that motor and they did that. They slapped the parts together, used cheap pushrods that ended up snapping, didn't port-match the intake etc. These outfits just rush the engines to maximize their profits.

See, if I were to go into business building engines, I'd be working for $3/hour because I take my time and do everything right. It takes a lot of time to do things the right way.

yupp.. guys don't realize this ... it takes a lot of time and more important it takes someone who is meticulous and pays attention to detail.

builders just rush things .. you cant take 9 women and have a baby in a month

 

[750H.P.V6]

One engine was a 540 that I bought from a company in New York. To set the thrust, they banged the front timing cover and bent it. After just a few hundred miles the needle bearings fell out of the thrust button. Unbelievable. $13k for that motor and they did that. They slapped the parts together, used cheap pushrods that ended up snapping, didn't port-match the intake etc. These outfits just rush the engines to maximize their profits.

See, if I were to go into business building engines, I'd be working for $3/hour because I take my time and do everything right. It takes a lot of time to do things the right way.

You'd love some of the things I found on mine. Suffice it to say nothing sucks more than to spend good money and get substandard results from people that are supposedly professionals.

Neal

 

[007gn]

If your engine is leaking oil off of the back of the oil pan... Read on...

The way the main cap and block meet on the front driver's side is different that a factory 109 block. The front cover has a raised portion that is supposed to press against the gasket and provide the seal.

Since the TA block has a portion that goes outside of this raised area, oil can escape and run down to the oil pan rail. From there the oil will go along the pan rail and drip off of the back.

Here are some picture to illustrate. The solution is to either weld the front cover, or like I did, use JB Weld to build the area where the leak occurs.

Here is a photo of the front of the engine once the front cover has been removed:
View attachment 290929

Here is the problem area. This is a closeup of the front cover, driver's side. This is the dowel pin hole. Note how the raised portion is narrow and curved.
View attachment 290931

Here is a closeup of the gasket. I have purposely ripped the gasket so that the hole or gap is exposed. You can see how this hole extends beyond the imprint made by the front cover. Oil can come out of here and create a free oil spray for your undercarriage.

View attachment 290932

Here is some JB Weld that I just applied. After 4 hours it is hardened and ready to flat-file. You will want it flat and level with the raised portion that makes the seal. This provides pressure against the gasket in the problem area and prevents this leak.
View attachment 290933

You'd love some of the things I found on mine. Suffice it to say nothing sucks more than to spend good money and get substandard results from people that are supposedly professionals.

Neal

 

[Mr.Spool]

Actually, I found that post last year and sent it to the person building my engine. I repeatedly urged him to look at that area carefully and do the modification. He didn't. That is one of 4 different things that I've had to fix on this engine that was "professionally built".

RPE and you won't have to tell him how to build it

 

[Mr.Spool]

yupp.. guys don't realize this ... it takes a lot of time and more important it takes someone who is meticulous and pays attention to detail.

builders just rush things .. you cant take 9 women and have a baby in a month

Yup