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TA Booster Plate a Melling P201

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Close. You did pick up on the two separate circuits... Before the relief valve opens you're correct, the oil has to turn 90, then 180 then drop down and only feed one side of the pump gears on the low pressure side of the pump. After the pump makes enough head pressure to open the relief valve, then the other corner of the gear face gets oil flow (from the filter adapter).

With my hole, the oil enters the timing cover, jogs left and hits the gear face right in the middle of the gears. The original passage is still free to flow if there's low pressure in that port. Once the bypass opens up it will still send oil back to the suction side just like normal as well.

That's what sucks about the factory oil circuits in the pump. The intake is starved a little until it gets the pressure up to the bypass point. Imagine having a MAF pipe that's restricted until you get to 15#s of boost. It would spool like a dog and the bottom end would be soggy as hell while it gasps for air. That's why these cars have a reputation for crappy oil pressure at idle. Couple that with a factory oil filter (worse if there's a Fram there), and it's a low rpm POS pump.

I was inspired to drill that area by looking at pictures of the KB booster plate on Steve Woods site back when I wrote that oil pump article. I compared it to a thrust plate, noted the difference and realized I could replicate it with a simple hole. By giving the oil a path of lesser resistance, it will take it every time.

My car has neither one of those plates, no HV gears, the weak spring, 18mm filter, and 0W30. The light goes out before the engine starts.
 
Close. You did pick up on the two separate circuits... Before the relief valve opens you're correct, the oil has to turn 90, then 180 then drop down and only feed one side of the pump gears on the low pressure side of the pump. After the pump makes enough head pressure to open the relief valve, then the other corner of the gear face gets oil flow (from the filter adapter).

With my hole, the oil enters the timing cover, jogs left and hits the gear face right in the middle of the gears. The original passage is still free to flow if there's low pressure in that port. Once the bypass opens up it will still send oil back to the suction side just like normal as well.

That's what sucks about the factory oil circuits in the pump. The intake is starved a little until it gets the pressure up to the bypass point. Imagine having a MAF pipe that's restricted until you get to 15#s of boost. It would spool like a dog and the bottom end would be soggy as hell while it gasps for air. That's why these cars have a reputation for crappy oil pressure at idle. Couple that with a factory oil filter (worse if there's a Fram there), and it's a low rpm POS pump.

I was inspired to drill that area by looking at pictures of the KB booster plate on Steve Woods site back when I wrote that oil pump article. I compared it to a thrust plate, noted the difference and realized I could replicate it with a simple hole. By giving the oil a path of lesser resistance, it will take it every time.

My car has neither one of those plates, no HV gears, the weak spring, 18mm filter, and 0W30. The light goes out before the engine starts.

You are correct Earl, by my stainless plate provides an extremely flat surface for the gears to ride against and they will never show signs of wear because they are completely non-magnetic. As long as the gears are demagnetized before assembly. I originally started making these plates for Lee Thompson. Lee was a true master assembler of some awesome engines. He explained the plates function, and I chose the material.
Here is a link to the making of the plates.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/coachs-booster-plate-step-by-step.332711/
 
I was inspired to drill that area by looking at pictures of the KB booster plate on Steve Woods site back when I wrote that oil pump article. I compared it to a thrust plate, noted the difference and realized I could replicate it with a simple hole.

Wow! I thought a detailed explanation would make a difference. I would never have guessed that a simple statement like "The hole does the same thing as the plate" would completely debunked my detailed explanation. Man,what was I thinking?
 
I do not want to get into the pissin' contest over hole vs. plate, but would like to make comments in general about the Buick oiling system as I have worked with Mike from TA for over 30 years when modifying and assembling timing covers/oil pumps for the 455 V-8 and the Buick 350 V-8/V6.

When the 455 cover was dis-continued, Mike had castings made and machined them in-house. The new TA cover had internal mods for better flow, and much closer tolerances than stock for improved pressure.

About 20 years later, the same process was applied to the 350 V-8/V-6 cover with the same excellent results.

One thing in common with the 2 covers is that the critical "dimension" is the machining of the pocket sides where the gears ride to build pressure and flow. The TA cover is built to much closer tolerances, and WILL perform better than a stock cover.

Every TA cover I have installed replacing a stock cover has shown an increase of 5-10 psi over the RPM range, and bench testing has shown additional flow as well.

The clearance between the plate and gears has little affect on pressure and flow when it is set within acceptable factory specs.

The factory timing cover/pump is very good in the stock form, and only the best ones were selected for turbo use after sub-assemly line testing, this is according to a friend that was production engineer at Buick City when these were produced.

In the early years of building turbo V-6 engines we would not "mess" with a factory sealed oil pump as they were more than adequate with many of our 600+ HP engine builds even with no "holes" or booster plates! :)
 
The factory timing cover/pump is very good in the stock form.
This is my finding as well. Because of this,I say it doesn't really matter if you do one or both of these mods or neither,generally speaking. The thing that is undeniably true is that these two mods do two distinctly different things. I don't think you can go wrong doing either,both,or neither of these mods so I never advise people to avoid either one.
 
The TA cover is shown here vs. a stock one to illustrate how the oil passages have been enlarged to allow more flow through the engine.

The internal passages where the oil makes a turn have also been smoothed with a radius for less restriction.

TA COVER VS STOCK.jpg
 
Nick, you might want to clarify the larger hole is on the output side of the pump, not the inlet.

Then again this thread went from TA sending a plain ole parts store thrust plate after they charged for a booster plate into an ad.
 
Just so its clear...I have no opinion on which way is better. I was only making it known that I do make new booster plates, so they can be obtained. I will get to work after the new year making a half dozen or so.

Thanks
 
I have no opinion on which way is better.
This,so far,has never been a conversation about which one is better. They both do different things which means there's no reason you can't do both mods.
 
Hey Earl, what size hole do you recommend? I went with a 1/8" to start and the kind of elongated the hole sideways.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That really depends on the dexterity of the porter. Due to the way the pocket's designed you have to be careful not to mess up the gasket sealing surface and avoid the hardened gear pin.


Just between us chickens, I enlarge it to 1/2" then start radiusing. .... but I'm kinda good with a drill motor too.
 
1/2"! I was worried about making the hole to big. Guess I don't have to worry about that. I might elongate mine some more.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1/2"! I was worried about making the hole to big. Guess I don't have to worry about that. I might elongate mine some more.

You're good. Making it easy for oil to flow into the pump is the same thing as putting high flow filters in front of the turbo. You never want to starve a pump. And you can never make it too easy.
 
This,so far,has never been a conversation about which one is better. They both do different things which means there's no reason you can't do both mods.
I know. My post meant that since I sell the plates...it would seem that I am biased to one way. The front cover on my engine uses a plate, and also has some other serious mods to the oiling system.
 
Just so its clear...I have no opinion on which way is better. I was only making it known that I do make new booster plates, so they can be obtained. I will get to work after the new year making a half dozen or so.

Thanks
Any booster plates made yet , interested !
 
Just so its clear...I have no opinion on which way is better. I was only making it known that I do make new booster plates, so they can be obtained. I will get to work after the new year making a half dozen or so.

Thanks

Coach are you making these?? and do you have to drill a hole in the pump like the original Kenne Bell design?/ I tried to send you a PM but you are a guest?

Thanks
 
Coach are you making these?? and do you have to drill a hole in the pump like the original Kenne Bell design?/ I tried to send you a PM but you are a guest?

Thanks
Coach has had his account here deleted so he does not receive PM's or emails..... He is no longer making these either....
 
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