TA headers

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jlat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
3,338
hello; How many of you are using TA headers and did not use there 2 pc. crossover pipe? I'm not fond of a two pc. but was wondering.
To people using TA's 2 pc. how are they holding up and are there any stories?
IBBY
 
2 pc crossovers give better adjustability and also seal just fine when using a good band clamp. Had an old ATR 2-piece on a previous car and no problems with it. Liked how I could adjust it a bit to move it away from the downpipe when I needed to.
 
the two piece is a tight fit slip joint with an overlaping pipe (double lapped)
inside heats and expands outside stays cool.. it seals tight
no problems on the race header and i dont run a band clamp on it

besides the ta crossover pipe wont flex to fit like the the thin stock crossover would ,
you need the slip to be adjustable for those that run header gaskets or those that dont
 
It's a nice piece and makes Exhaust installation a breeze. Like everybody said the adjustability is great have them on both of my cars.
No band clamp here. I got Driverside TA header on my GN with Stock passangerside the crossover pipe fits perfect. My Ttype stock headers also fits fine.
 
hello; I'm just about ready to go to Cottons and pick up the TAH. From there I'll take them with other stuff to coater. As of now my plan is to get every thing coated along with a 1 pc. SS 2.5" crossover pipe I got in the past. From there we'll see how it goes.
maybe because it's only been recently that I asked the question but I thought there would be more feedback?
IBBY
 
hello; How many of you are using TA headers and did not use there 2 pc. crossover pipe? I'm not fond of a two pc........................IBBY

TA uses the more expensive 2 piece crossover because is it MUCH better design than a one piece pipe. :)

First, it compensates for the many variables like different heads, gaskets or not, machining differences with blocks and heads, as well as other changes.

The one piece pipe cannot compensate for expansion and contraction from cold to hot, and this puts additional stress on the headers which contributes to pre-mature cracking.

This is not just a slip joint, but also it does NOT leak because of an inner liner and the exhaust gases are rapidly going in one direction, and cannot make a U-turn in the pipe to escape. No clamp is needed. :rolleyes:
 
yup...had mine on 3 years...no leak at all. no clamp...just slip together and I put a anchor bolt through the eyelets. Done.
 
hello; I like the explanation about expansion and contraction and adding additional stess and pre-mature cracking. That makes sence to me. But I think stock headers crack because of age and heat cycles. What do you think? I think I'll still get the 1 pc. coated and I'm going to sleep on it tonight on whitch one I'll use.
Tomorrow I'm blowing the day off and going to Cottons and then the coater.
I'd like to here more thoughts on the subject.
thanks
IBBY
 
if you're waiting to have someone tell you that a one piece crossover will fit easily or last on a tA race header with the vbands that require a precise fit that only a two piece pipe can allow ... i suppose theres a fool on this site that will post up that its a good idea ... but it wont be me
 
in my 7 years of being on this site...I've learned a lot in exchanges with mr. pacecarta. Here's you chance to take his/our advice for sure.
 
hello; I'm just about ready to go to Cottons and pick up the TAH. From there I'll take them with other stuff to coater. As of now my plan is to get every thing coated along with a 1 pc. SS 2.5" crossover pipe I got in the past. From there we'll see how it goes.
maybe because it's only been recently that I asked the question but I thought there would be more feedback?
IBBY


I may be wrong, so please correct me if I'm off base here......pretty sure I've read that a 2 1/2" dia. cross over pipe like ATR's has been tested and been confirmed that it isn't recommended except for an all out purpose built large displacement track car.
Don't think you're gonna be happy with your spool up uisng a 2 1/2" dia cross over pipe.

Just measured my old stock cross over pipe and it's 2 1/4". Pretty sure that was the same size that was used on the Kenne Bell headers I used to have on the car. Recently changed over to the TA headers & believe the TA cross over pipe on these are 2 1/4" too.
Pretty sure they're all this size for a reason.

You may wanna re-think going this route?

"Just sayin"
 
I've had mine around 6 years running fine. Many passes. I've used thick gaskets but the stock gaskets seems to work best for me. My jet coats starting to fade & I would like to have some New bolts for some reason mines starting to have a slight rust on the outer coat of the head from condesation I suppose, other than that, If I had to buy any more headers..... The TA's would be it, I may try the stainless next time.
 
hello; I got the TA's and to the coater today. Not bad driving as that was my second time to Cottons and my first to Hartford Ct. The coaters shop is a big place and can handle large items.
Inspecting the TA a little burr removal from an ID area (that Brian took care off) but otherwise good.
I am getting both crossover pipes done and I'll probably go with the 2 pc. from feedback here.
Here's another question. Any problem with plug removal with the TA? I heard something about it's tuff in a area near the flange?
IBBY
 
#2 and 4 is tight with the top support bar . I cut that bar out on mine
 
Follow the advice given and go with the 2pc, why waste your money getting the one piece coated? Before coating anything it would always be wise to do a test fit on the car first.
 
hello; I know coating the 1 pc. may be a waste of money but I figure while I was there get it done. I think he said it's like $15.00 to $20.00 a ft. to coat. When I waste my money I say to myself "it could of went up my nose". I never had a problem with the stuff but it was getting close. If it doen't work out I'll sell it and if it's true that a larger dia. crossover is for the higher HP cars it'll be gone. There are some high HP cars out there and if the pipe could help why not.
IBBY
 
#2 and 4 is tight with the top support bar . I cut that bar out on mine
hello; Are you running aluminum heads? There was something said that the alum. heads cause the problem and that with irons there's none. It wasn't a 100% sure statment but that's what I heard.
IBBY
 
i had to hog 3 bolt holes out and grind the top of the flange around #2 cylinder to get the passenger side to bolt up... Gn 1's aluminum...I called the vendor I bought them from and got "welcome to my world...Champion changes his design, so and so does this or that, blah blah blah..."..... not exactly what you want to hear or have to do to $750 parts....also had a problem with one of the holes on the $200 sfi flywheel and was told that it wasn't the flywheel, but the $650 crankshaft instead.....you'd think that with all the " R+D" that supposedly goes into these parts, and the money they charge, that you would be able to get something that bolts on without some kind of modification needed.....
 
hello; I'll say this first before someone else does. And that is with aftermarket some tweaking is needed. But the stuff your saying with the heads,crank,flywheel those items should be dead on and the R & D has failed. IMO
good luck with your problems
IBBY
 
very very frustrating experience over the last 2 years...I'm almost afraid to drive the phucking thing in fear of something else breaking, then having to mod 5 other things for the replacement to work....for the money I've spent lately, I could have a small block Nova going 9's by now.....
 
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