TA SS header - Flange/head sealing

[forcefed3.8's]

I had a set of 4 bolt TA headers. They were from 2009. The fit was nice, and no extra work was involved to make them seal. I never had a problem.

I had a very early set of ATR 3 bolt headers before that. Theu had the round port flangees that leaked and the turbo was cocked compressor down and my H cover hit the one waterpump heater nipple. I spent many hours welding the ports up to make them match the heads, and removed and repositioned the turbo flange. They were great after that.

I now run GEE M Racing headers. The only thing I had to do was enlarge the mounting holes on the head and turbo flange. The studs wouldnt go through as delivered. They fit great and dont leak.

Most every aftermarket part will require some type of fitting or adjusting.

 

[Coach]

Ok we will agree to disagree thennothing is perfect and will ever be im not saying that perfect parts wouldn't be nice it's just not a reality.i have seen a lot of parts that are fabricated for specific cars from race to show winning stuff and it's a lot of work to get everything right and is usually someone is going way above and beyond,that's what separates custom from the assembly line stuff.the price stuff is what someone is willing to do the work for,the materials are not where the real cost is.

There is NO reason for the parts to be warped, twisted or just not fit. Race or OEM, they are parts made for a specific application. They should fit that application without any modifications of any kind...unless done by the purchaser on purpose, like EGT bungs or O2 bung. To check a flange for true flatness after these are made is the easiest part of the QC process. they should all be mocked up on a motor and tightened before they leave the shop to be boxed for shipping.
If you pay me to build something completely from scratch...it fits when im done. Ask anyone on this forum that has purchased items from me.
My TA headers fit great...I cannot believe that there are issues like this when paying $1100 for them.
I would raise holy hell to Mike at TA...not just post.

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

Jerry, Call Mike he should know. Since I have had my issues he should call over to the shop that is making them and give them a heads up. Mike was very receptive to me and I did not speak with anyone else.

 

[Jerryl]

I never had any intention to run them without a quality bellow in the crossover. It just doesn't make much sense to me to run without, regardless of experiences. Had already talked to the shop about it at the last dyno session. Lol. Should be about $230

 

[Ttype6]

I never had any intention to run them without a quality bellow in the crossover. It just doesn't make much sense to me to run without, regardless of experiences. Had already talked to the shop about it at the last dyno session. Lol. Should be about $230

I've been running Kenne-Bell stainless headers for 20+ years. The passenger side header is warped much more than yours. It was flat before the welding process and therefore flat when it is bolted to the head. It has never leaked and I have never used gaskets and never would. I use silicone between the headers and heads and headers and turbo. This is my real world experience. I've been using these headers on aluminum heads for the past 3 years and I use these to bolt them to the heads.

http://shop.totallystainless.com/productlistheaderbolts.php

 

[bison]

I never had any intention to run them without a quality bellow in the crossover. It just doesn't make much sense to me to run without, regardless of experiences. Had already talked to the shop about it at the last dyno session. Lol. Should be about $230

The good bellows are about $250. Plus the time to mock up and fab them in


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[Jerryl]

You are correct.
They said the short bellow was $160. It had about 4 or 5 accordions? Maybe $100 for fab work . . . Don't remember.

 

[Ktbregal]

Could one of you guys recommend where to buy the bellow?

 

[Ttype6]

The piece we are talking about is called a bellows. The thing that the black smith used to stoke his fire is also called a bellows. A bellows is one of many parts of an accordion.
I've never thought about using one. I think I'm going to have to look into using one since I'm now using aluminum heads.

 

[turbo89]

Could one of you guys recommend where to buy the bellow?

Hit me up .. i can get you 304-321-inconel depending on your needs

 

[Ktbregal]

Thanks brother, I will