Take off that cold air canister!!!

[87gninpa]

I bought my car with the older Kenne Bell ram air system that comes thorugh the DS air dam and into the canister with the filter in it. Poeple on the board recomended taking it off as it was restricting the airflow, and nto helping it. Boy were they right!! Its not s a huge power increase but i can definately feel it, and also hear it. When under anything more than quarter throttle, all i can hear is the exposed filter sucking air in and it sounds great!! next is to get up some money for a big mouth kit from buickgn.com, but for now, this is much better. SO, in conclusion, TAKE OFF YOUR CRAPPY RAM AIR KITS THAT USE THE CANNISTER!!!!

 

[87 WE2]

Told Ya................most people thing I am nuts when I tell them to take that thing off because its slowing them down....

If your not too busy Sunday come up to the MANGA meeting;

Sunday, February 15, 2004 at 12:00 Noon

Hooters of Concordville
1110 Baltimore Pike
Concordville, PA 19331

(610) 459-9494

This is one of our best locations, located at the intersection of Rt. 202 & Rt. 1 near the Painters Crossing shopping center. For those of you who haven't been to this location yet, there is plenty of parking behind the restruaunt

 

[klrv6]

Could I have a little more info?

I too purchased my turbo buick with one of the KB cold air kits installed. I left it on after DS showed the huge improvement in MAT temps. Is there another way to feed this thing cold air without restricting air flow? Could I use a better cone filter inside that wasn't so close to the walls of the can? What if I made some type of box, like the new $300+ kits that K&N sells (not for our cars)? I want to allow the coldest in air without restricting air flow.
Did you take the entire kit off or just remove the can? I thought the huge intercooler scoop would also help? Couldn't you cut another hole on the other air dam and make ducts for brake cooling?

 

[OneLethal87GN]

I have the ATR version with the bigger canister and filter. I definitely see a reduction on MAT temps especially while sitting at a light. The temps rise much slower. I haven't paid much attention to what it does while driving down the road but it still seems to be cooler with the canister on. I see how it would be a restriction with having to pull the air through the small opening, up through the hose, then into the canister but for cooler temps in the Summer I leave mine on. The Winter is a different story though. Just my 2 cents.

 

[2QUIK6]

Re: Could I have a little more info?

Originally posted by klrv6
Is there another way to feed this thing cold air without restricting air flow?

Yes, buy or build a cold air kit which locates the filter outside the engine compartment behind the headlight.
Here's mine:
http://hometown.aol.com/onebadwskier/images/gnmotor1.jpg

And yes, I used to have a KB canister as well, it did keep temps down, but also look at your MAF readings, I could never get higher than about 235 gms. Took off the canister, get 254-255 now.
I did do an experiment buy cutting a few extra holes in the canister that faced the fender well, it worked good, but if you came to a stop for more than a minute, MAT temps would shoot up and would come back down even after moving again.
The cold air kit is the best, cool MATs and good MAF readings to boot.

 

[turb]

Rob.

Very nice job on the fresh air system! Been thinking about trying this lately. Any help on parts you used? I have a minimum of tools available but if most are "off shelf" I could manage. If I do go ahead with it I can document the process like I did on this project and others can benefit too:

http://tinyurl.com/3gcvm

Thanks,

Jack

 

[2QUIK6]

Originally posted by turb
Any help on parts you used?

I used exhaust elbows from the Freightliner shop, 4" diameter, one 90* and one 45*, I later found this place that has them for much cheaper: http://shop.airflowonline.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=AFSI&Category_Code=EE

Here's the 45: http://shop.airflowonline.com/Merch...=AFSI&Product_Code=432-445PE&Category_Code=4D


And the 90: http://shop.airflowonline.com/Merch...SI&Product_Code=434-402PE&Category_Code=9DSR1

Just need the 45* and the 90* short radius in 4" diameter, and a 3" to 4" sewer coupling and 4" sewer pipe coupling from Home Depot. Then a 9" K&N with a 4" round opening.

You have to trim/bend a little bit of the body right behind the headlight to get the 4" pipe thru the opening there, and that's it.
You may have to cut the 45* pipe in small increments until the turn/angle is just right to angle it right to the opening behind the headlight.

I used 4" because the straight shot to the turbo is 3" after the MAF and didn't want to loose any flow from a 3" 90* bend, the 4" 90* bend can flow more air than the 3" straight part can so there's no flow loss with the extra piping.

 

[azgn]

at the race track my car performs better with a large (14 X 4) K&N type filter in the engine compartment with a straight shot at the turbo vs any plumbing that would collect "cold air"

things could be different on the street, but last time I checked, you can't race there

(an even better setup would blow cold air on the filter in the engine compartment....say where a headlite is.......)

 

[Garycar]

In our testing over the years we concluded that the ram air canister provided cooler inlet air during spirited street driving. At the track with generally cooler engine coolant temperatures we concluded that the open element provided slightly better performance. The next time you are street driving the car, stop at a light for 30 seconds or so then pull over and pop the hood. All that very hot air is being injested into the air inlet and will continue until up to speed. I wouldn't be so anxious to remove it for street driving, especially during the hotter seasons. Also, sound isn't necessarily an indicator of performance.

 

[strikeeagle]

I still like the Tomka the best. Cold air, OEM quality and appearance.