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For what it's worth, 10 years ago I had a high 10 sec 1/4 mile GN with bone-stock bottom end, TE-60 turbo and the green-stripe 42.5 lb injectors. However, I was running a 7th injector also.
I also had champion heads/intake, atr exhaust/down-pipe their JUNK headers and external gate, stretched ATR intercooler in stock location and @ that time a 3,000 non-lock Art Carr converter. Ran 25lbs boost without trouble on Sunoco Maximal, then turned my boost down to 14lbs with 93 octane for the street.

In "dry weather ONLY" it was my daily driver in the spring & summer and I NEVER had any downsides.

I would advise @ least a 3,000 9 inch converter to compliment that TE-60. I've never tried alky and don't know anything about it as i've been away from turbo Buicks for years but i've heard good thing about the alky...so you should probably check it out if you wanna run over 14-15lbs boost on the street.
 
Here's another thread talking about injector sizes
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1067755#post1067755

If running alky, it adds fuel and has an effect on A/F, you must cut WOT fuel by about 10-15% when running alky, so it is like a 7th injector and adds octane and has a great cooling effect. I love my alky kit and definitely was one of the best bangs for the buck and will save you $$ in the long run if you buy race gas all the time. If your considering alky, then your injectros are fine.
If you think you only want to run a max of about 24# of boost, then consider a smaller turbo such as the GT3255, can use your stock convertor and it will spool just as fast or faster.
I'm testing a GT3251 on my stock TTA and it spools to 10# at the drop of the throttle almost instantly, way quicker than the stocker. Should have some track times soon to compare to the stocker, although it will only be at a max of about 20# of boost as there are no fueling upgrades on the car.

And before doing anything, get a scan tool and learn to use it or you'll be replacing headgaskets or worse no matter what you do.
 
Don't tell anyone but I ran a regular street chip with the SMC alky. kit and just walked the boost up until I got knock or ran out of turbo.

Went from 15 on the street chip and pump gas to 22 psi. on the alky. and pump gas.

Very easy to tune a SMC kit and you don't have to replace fuel or try to run high timing or blow your head gaskets to make some good power. ;)

Didn't cut any fuel or have any issues, stock turbo, stock injectors, SP10 street chip.

You can do that with most any street chip, alky. chips vary with the amount of fuel removed WOT, some use out of the box race chips with high timing and keep the fuel and add large amounts of alky. to make up for the timing.

No set path or plan for using da booze. :cool:

I agree that many have had issues with the 009's but the thread starter has a chip and them in hand, might as well use them if he can and likes them. :)
 
Originally posted by salvageV6
Went from 15 on the street chip and pump gas to 22 psi. on the alky. and pump gas.
yep, we're on the same page. See you're running 22psi of boost on 15psi of fuel....or a 15psi chip.

If you were tuned to running C116 and 25# of boost..then add alky, you would need to cut the WOT fueling in the chip in order to run 25# of boost with alky and be in "correct" tune. Hence why chip makers ask how much boost you plan to run, etc etc so they can guestimate the fueling needed.
I started out at 24# of boost which had 22% more fuel added at WOT. Added alky and the O2s went up to 860-870s. Began cutting WOT fueling until I saw soem KR...added some more ramp to the alky, cut more fuel, added ramp, cut fuel until I had 780s again on the O2s and just a tad rich on the A/F on the dyno. Ended up with only 6-8% added WOT fueling in the PE table on the chip.
 
Actually I wasn't very close to flowing 255 MAF reading at 15 psi. boost with the setup, but I do see your point. ;)
 
Originally posted by salvageV6
Actually I wasn't very close to flowing 255 MAF reading at 15 psi. boost with the setup, but I do see your point. ;)
PE (Power Enrichment) fueling is in addition to fueling controlled by the MAF reading. In the stock chip, PE fueling can be set to "turn on" at a certain TPS reading and RPM reading in separate tables, then the % of fuel added in PE mode is based on a given RPM and TPS is controlled by those 2 tables. Most chip burners rarely touch the MAF tables except at idle, all of their WOT or PE fueling is controlled by the two PE fuel tables which can add a % or subtract a % from the fuel amount calculated via the MAF reading. If using a Translator, then it accomplishes the same thing by scaling the MAF reading to the ECM to start with after reaching a certain threshold considered as WOT.
 
With 42s, you have *just* enough fuel that if everything is *just* right to go relatively fast. While some folks like them, some also hate them.

So far, I've yet to hear of anyone having any serious issues getting the 60/ 65s to run right.

With the 60s, they're large enough, that the chip guy has to spend some time, to actually figure out the fuel curve, since they're just not run static, like so many of the smaller injectors.

Not to mention with the 60/ 65s, that there's more fuel available when using Accleration Enrichment. There is NO, way to patch or mickey mouse getting AE right other then with having enough injector.

A quick search for *Abnormal Combustion* in the tech board will lead you to an article where they go into detonation, and perignition, and from there, you can draw your own conclusions about what you want to risk.
 
I think he'd be risking some cash $$$ by not using his 42's and chip in hand along with his good buy TE60 turbo at 20 psi. boost on a stock longblock.

Anyone wanna guess what RWHP level that would be? ;)

And what the 42's can support? :cool:
 
I'd say if you had converter, intercooler, head & intake work to go with it , about 560 @ the rear wheels with 25 lbs of boost.
 
You'll have no problems w/ 42.5's. I ran a TE60 with Bluetop 36# injectors way back with no knocking problems at all.

-Lloyd
 
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