Tear Down in Progress...

[S10xGN]

Ahhhh, I'm starting to HATE ! ! !

Got insured and inspected yesterday and made a 10 mile run. Four or so 5# sustained boost runs and two short WOT runs at 14# (BstC & Alky off, one WG solenoid hooked up). Everything went great except for an idle problem for which I'll prolly get a new chip burned.

Went out this morning with the intent of repainting the door panels and found a QT sized puddle of motor oil under it. Put it on stands, cleaned it all up and ran for 10 minutes, looks like the rear main seal. Only thing done different is I used the "silicone" cavity method instead of the rubber blocks for the side seals. Guess I'll be yanking the pan (along with all that's in the way of it) this weekend...

 

[Razor]

get that alky pump sent in for freshening before you start hammering on it

Its been a while on there

 

[S10xGN]

Been a long week! Got the rear main seal replaced using the blocks & nails as I should have. Last time I'll listen to "internet engineers"... Repainted the door panels with the proper SEM vinyl paint, so they look new now instead of the cheap peeling rattle-can cr@p I used years ago. Decided to pull the truck bed to get to the fuel pump hanger and see why my line pressure bleeds off instantly. BTW, not a fun job for one! Found my new $20/ft high pressure 3/8" submersible SAE30R10 fuel hose with a huge tear in it right above the hose clamp! With the pump outlet being 5/16" and the truck hanger fitting being 3/8", I ended up using two different hose sizes with a piece of 3/8" brake line between them. Held pressure just fine on the bench with no bleed down. Installed it in the tank and reinstalled the bed (had to do this for the battery), now the line bleeds down in 10 seconds instead of instantly. No visible leakage or fuel smell from any of the fittings. Oh, well...enough time for a clean start instead of cranking the starter for 8 or 10 seconds. :frown:

Also managed to incur a few new "personality marks" in the process. A couple scarfs on the rear bumper plus an "outie" in the hood when my POS Craftsman floor jack decided to release and drop instantly instead of a controlled descent. This caused the hood (which was open on the prop rod) to slam down hard enough to bend the prop rod into a "U" while shoving the end through the support frame into the hood skin.

Got a new TT 5.7 chip coming with a higher idle speed on the way. Hopefully all will be well now, I'll take it out for a spin tomorrow...

get that alky pump sent in for freshening before you start hammering on it

Its been a while on there

Julio, that's the only part that's NOT giving me trouble! :biggrin:

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Throw that..

"my POS Craftsman floor jack decided to release and drop instantly instead of a controlled descent. This caused the hood (which was open on the prop rod) to slam down hard enough to bend the prop rod into a "U" while shoving the end through the support frame into the hood skin. "

POS IN THE TRASH, B4 u get yourself mashed flat!!
Had 1, took it back..They replaced it. Same $hit. That 1 went in the scrap metal dumpster.

 

[S10xGN]

POS IN THE TRASH, B4 u get yourself mashed flat!!
Had 1, took it back..They replaced it. Same $hit. That 1 went in the scrap metal dumpster.

Chuck, what are you recommending? I need an alum jack that'll go from 3.5" to around 17.5". I may dissect this POS and see if it can be rebuilt. The rapid-pump part works great, but when you hit resistance about 75% of the stroke seems like air and the other 25% fluid. And of course, the descent is pretty "iffy". Sometimes its normal and other times NOT! I've checked the level and it seems OK...