Temporary a/c bypass? Possible?

[Jonasterg]

My 87 Turbo T is having some issues. The pulley directly under the alternator (I do believe it is the a/c compressor pulley) won't spin, so I assume the clutches in the compressor have gone bad. I need to bring the car to a shop to get it fixed, and I was wondering if there is a way to run a shorter belt to bypass this pulley so that the car is temporarily drivable. Any ideas?

 

[turbotwister]

you can go to the GM dealer and get an A/C delete pulley and bracket for a mid 80's s-10 pickup i believe its only about $30 or $35 dollars .it will go in place of your A/C compressor and will use a slightly shorter belt.


nick,

 

[Jonasterg]

So I will need to remove the compressor to put in the A/C delete pulley and bracket, right? Do you know about how much time would be involved in that project? I'm asking because the mechanic that would do the work is doing the job on the side so that I don't have to pay the ridiculous dealership prices. Just wondering. Thanks.

 

[Jonasterg]

I just need something temporary. The car needs to be mobile just in case the service shop supervisor comes in and doesn't want my car there (in case it's busy or whatever). If there is a way to reroute the serpentine belt so that my alternator and water pump still work, but everything else is disconnected, that is fine. The car would only be in this disabled condition for about a day. I don't want to just run it without any serpentine belt, because the drive is too far to go with no water pump. Any other ideas?

Also, I have a replacement a/c compressor to use, so I will end up fixing it. Basically I'm just looking for a way to have the car mobile enough to get to the shop and to drive around inside the shop. Thanks.

 

[Drac0nic]

pull your belt off and if the pulley for the AC won't spin freely, it's bad. The AC has a clutch that is on when you kick the AC on, or at startup for a few seconds. The reason for this is that the piston has a pin that goes in it, this is just pressed in (no pin) If it's left to sit for a winter or a long period of time, the piston will freeze and can pull the pin out. If the pulley spins freely and you unplug the eletrical connector to the compressor it shouldnt ever activate that clutch.

 

[SAVANNAHAUTOAIR]

Drac0nic is right. Althought I do not know the proper length belt for bypassing the compressor, running a shorter one will hurt nothing.


Run a small piece of rope and measure the distance from end to end, bypassing the compressor, and that will give you a baseline as to what length you will need. You can then go to a parts store, and get a serpentine belt of that length, and be good to go.

Hope that helps.

Brett Anderson

Savannah Auto Air
912.927.0111

 

[turbofish38]

If I'm not mistaken,cant you remove the clutch drive plate off the compressor and still run the engine, assuming the bearing is good? The bearing and pulley are held on with a snap ring so it wont come off the compressor snout. I did this on my Roadmaster with the HR6 compressor until I could fix it.

 

[Jonasterg]

I ended up just towing it to the dealership, then pushing it where it needed to be moved. The new a/c compressor is now installed, but the serpentine belt that I got from Advance AutoParts won't fit. I had two AC Delco belts in my room, but we recently moved and my dad packed all of my things while I was away at school... now the belts are missing. Does anyone know where else I can get the correct belt for the car? I have called two GM dealerships, but both of them will need a few days to order the belt, and I'm leaving again for school on Sunday, so I would like to have everything fixed by then. Thanks for all your help so far, that's why I love this board.

 

[Rickracer]

Since you had the new compressor already.....

...the best bet would have been to go ahead and bolt it on. You may have had to leave the old compressor hooked up to the hoses so as not to lose the Freon. I am assuming that the bearing in the compressor clutch went bad. You should be able to get a a new serpentine belt at just about any parts store.

 

[Jonasterg]

I'm still having belt issues. I went to NAPA, they did not have the belt in stock. I went to two Advance Auto Parts, they all had the belt that was the wrong size. I called a few different GM/Buick/Chevy dealerships, none of them have the belt in stock. Does anyone know the Advance Auto Parts part number for our correct belt? They gave me something like 5060640, and it is definately too long to fit the pulleys. Any ideas?

 

[Topjimmy]

Dayco 5060640 27/32"W x 64"L 6 rib is the replacement belt for 86/87 TRs and the 89 TTA. You may have a smaller crank, water pump &/or alternator pulley. My Kirban crank reduction pulley uses a 1 1/2" shorter belt so the Dayco # would be 5060625 (62 1/2").

HTH - Jimmy

 

[Turbo Brian]

With the stock settup, the correct belt size is 635K6 (decodes to 63.5" six rib). If you use a 640K6 (that is how long both belts are that you listed), they are .5" too long and will squeal. Don't settle for any belt other than a 635K6. You may have to go with another brand belt.

 

[Turbo Brian]

Autozone carries the belt. Check this link:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...iredQuestion&Parameters=|~WITH+A/C&PageSync=4

 

[Jonasterg]

Thanks guys. I ended up finding my two AC Delco belts that I had packed in my basement. (We just moved a month ago and I'm unpacking slowly each time I go back home from school.) I just threw on the Delco and it worked perfectly. Thanks again for all your help, if not for this board I'd be SOL.

 

[scottyb]

I use NAPA 060637. It's a hair shorter than what their computer calls for - that one stretched and the tensioner hit it's limit after just a few weeks..