Tensioner Noise

[GrndNatnl]

I think the bearing in my tensioner is going to crap. When it's idling, it rattles pretty loud. I can loosen the belt and spin it by hand, but it doesnt spin fast enogh to make a sound I guess.

I know I have to remove the alternator because they share that one bolt. Anything else involved in removing it? Is there just the 2 other bolts holding the tensioner to whatever its bolted to?

Can I find this pulley and/or bearing at a local parts store? Any tips on repairing this at all? Gotta fix it before it comes off and really creates a problem. TIA

 

[Buick Beginner]

Just did mine

Just thought I'd pipe in, I just did mine. I ordered mine from www.gmpartsdirect.com I think it was $69.00 plus shipping. The serpentine belt has to come off, then the alternator, there are 3 bolts total that hold the tensioner, one is indeed shared with the alt. It's a great time to spray some engine cleaner into some of those hard to reach spots you can't get to with the tensioner and alt in place. Remember your serpentine belt is a 63.5 inch I do believe, don't let them sell you a 64" one cause the parts store will try too. Be sure to unhook your battery when pulling the alt loose. I did mine in less than an hour which is good for me cause usually it takes me 5 hours to do everything. -BB

 

[turbo nasty]

My 86 GN does the same, though it is not the tensioner.

It is the flipping A/C comp rattling...there are square nuts welded to the acces bracket and one is missing so it rattles.

Sounds like what your are saying. Give it a look

 

[Shane]

I think I have the same problem. Must be contagious.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=119231

 

[scottyb]

I *think* you can replace the bearing, I saw a reference to it somewhere, and NAPA had a cross ref in stock.

Before you do that, make sure your tensioner is not just "banging" against the end of it's travel. I has to get a smaller belt also to stop mine from doing this.

 

[GrndNatnl]

Ok, if anyone can chime in on this, let me know...

The tensioner should be fine, so I'm going to just replace the pulley w/ the bearing. The local parts stores have the pulley instock, but its not the metal pulley. It's the plastic one.

Does it matter as far as metal or newer plastic pulley?

Has anyone else just done this?

Any part numbers?

Is it easier to change the pulley?



TIA

 

[rc1626]

Same Problem! Mine was sqealing like it was a bad belt. Replaced the belt and still had the same problem. Replaced the bearing in the tensioner pulley and no more squealing. If it is in fact your tensioner bearing, you have a couple of options. If you have a place near you that rebuilds alternators and such, take the pulley to them and they should be able to match up a bearing for you. $5-$10. I did not have this option. I went and bought a new pulley from a local auto parts store for like $20. The pulley was not original looking and although still was the same size and would have worked, I wanted the original pulley back on. The new pulley housed the same bearing as the old. I removed the bearing from the new pulley and put it in the original and all is fine now. Either way it still beats spending $70 for a brand new one. Your choice! HTH!
Rob

 

[GrndNatnl]

Maybe I'll just get the pulley from the parts store, use it for the time being, and have the bearing changed in the original pulley in the meantime. Then I'll either have it for future use, or I can put it back on for the heck of it, if I feel motivated to do it again for some reason.

Which way do you turn the bolt on the pulley to remove it? (Left or right handed thread?) Is there a nut on the back holding it on? I'm hoping I can take it off without having to remove the whole tensioner assembly.