The Buick Turbobugeye Runs

[Turbobug]

Based on Charie's recommendation I finally fired up the 83 Buick Turbo engine sitting in a 59 Bugeye Sprite without the turbo hooked up. It ran great until the rubber hose from the oil pump to the turbo blew off. I reatteched it and tightened it down snug and its OK so far. That brings up the first question. I noticed these are hard lines from the factory. Will rubber do or should I redo with steel? I guess if the turbo doesn't get oil for a while it's a death sentence. I wired a pressure switch to cut off the electric fuel pump when the oil pressure drops, but the carb could keep feeding fuel for a while.

After I cleaned up, and restarted the engine, I noticed a new puddle. Looks like the rear seal on the crank shaft is leaking. The engine sat around for 2 years in the prior owner's garage after rebuild, so maybe that skunked the seals. Manual says that initial leaks are not unusual and it will quit after oil and heat swell the fabric. I dumped in some additive to help, but so far (5 hours of driving or running on blocks) it's still leaking badly. Any tips on replacing the main seal without removing the engine. I had a hard time squeezing it in the first time and don't look forward to removal.

I built the Pete's Buick PECV (PEVR) replacement set-up (the one that uses Ford vacuum switched and a Hobbs switch) to control the power valve in the carb. I need a good place to put the Hobbs switch so it can sense boost/vaccume differential. Any suggestions? The intake manifold seems void of any good taps. How about the base of the elbow(of the turbo housing)?

Final question......how far does the wastegate actuater arm actually move to open or close the gate? Mine goes maybe a quarter to a half inch. Is that normal? Ive never seen the inside of one of these.

Thanks for the help. Spring is just around the corner and I'm eyeballing a registration form for a local hillclimb.

 

[charlief1]

Based on Charie's recommendation I finally fired up the 83 Buick Turbo engine sitting in a 59 Bugeye Sprite without the turbo hooked up. It ran great until the rubber hose from the oil pump to the turbo blew off. I reatteched it and tightened it down snug and its OK so far. That brings up the first question. I noticed these are hard lines from the factory. Will rubber do or should I redo with steel? I guess if the turbo doesn't get oil for a while it's a death sentence. I wired a pressure switch to cut off the electric fuel pump when the oil pressure drops, but the carb could keep feeding fuel for a while.

After I cleaned up, and restarted the engine, I noticed a new puddle. Looks like the rear seal on the crank shaft is leaking. The engine sat around for 2 years in the prior owner's garage after rebuild, so maybe that skunked the seals. Manual says that initial leaks are not unusual and it will quit after oil and heat swell the fabric. I dumped in some additive to help, but so far (5 hours of driving or running on blocks) it's still leaking badly. Any tips on replacing the main seal without removing the engine. I had a hard time squeezing it in the first time and don't look forward to removal.

I built the Pete's Buick PECV (PEVR) replacement set-up (the one that uses Ford vacuum switched and a Hobbs switch) to control the power valve in the carb. I need a good place to put the Hobbs switch so it can sense boost/vaccume differential. Any suggestions? The intake manifold seems void of any good taps. How about the base of the elbow(of the turbo housing)?

Final question......how far does the wastegate actuater arm actually move to open or close the gate? Mine goes maybe a quarter to a half inch. Is that normal? Ive never seen the inside of one of these.

Thanks for the help. Spring is just around the corner and I'm eyeballing a registration form for a local hillclimb.

GREAT NEWS!!! Been hoping you'd get back with us and tell us how it's going.:smile: As far as the rear main, you may be able to change it without pulling the engine but you're better off pulling it. Use the neoprene seal off the later engines, it works much better. (86-87) If you can't locate it go to evilbay and you should be able to find it for around $10 not including shipping.

As far as the line to the turbo, you'll be better off with a steel line. but you'll have to make it from scratch. See if you can find a turbosaver for it so the oil is double filtered to keep any trash out of it.

As far as the tension on the waste gate actuator, refer to Rich's site. It should give you all the info you need.:biggrin:

 

[mat231v6]

for the rear seal pull the motor it makes it easy to do. i would change the feed line over to steel. i dont like putting on a turbo saver because you can clog it all up with junk, and not know there is no oil going to the turbo. what i do is change the oil more instead. some people swear by it, but i just don't know.

 

[Turbobug]

Ok, I'm going to bend some pipe this week. So, this turbo saver you mentioned.....I'm guessing its some kind of mini-oil filter that gets installed in line between the pump and the turbo, right? Where can I get it? I checked eBay and a couple of parts sites with no luck.

I found cheap neoprene seals online at Rock Auto. Is this a direct replacement for the rope (unlikely) or do the bearings have to be changed? I hate to pull the engine even though I would like to try out my newly acquire vintage chain fall. I may try to slip them in with the engine in place & crank loosened and then pull the engine after screwing up the seals and buying new ones.

I'm going to try the vacuum/boost Hobbs switch at the base of the turbo case later today to see if it works (impacts the power valve). I checked Vac/Boost there with a gauge and its swinging. Not sure how much since I'm being careful not to get too engaged in the turbo til things are right with the oil and tubing. Is there any whay to check if the power valve is working other than air/fuel ratio gauge? I guess the plugs would reveal a too rich/lean mixture.

I can hear it "spooling-up" on mild acceleration, which I guess is a good sign. The engine sounds neat. I have a temporary 3 inch pipe coming off the turbo and down the side of the car about 4 feet (Laker!). Very distinctive sound. I may forget about a muffler.

 

[charlief1]

A turbo saver is a filter in line to the turbo. Matt's right about loosing pressure if it's not kept clean. There's 2 types. One is a disposable filter and the other is a sintered brass filter. Contack TR coustom parts, I think Mark has them.

The neoprene seal at rockauto should be the right one but post a link. The biggest reason to pull the engine is so you can seal the pan up properly. If you don't it will leak.

 

[Turbobug]

OK I'll mull the filter over a bit. If I use one, I'll stick the Oil pressure sender after the filter. That should signal a clog, right?

Here is the rear seal set I plan to buy. This is my first stab at a link. Let me know if it works or not.1986 BUICK REGAL T-TYPE Crankshaft Seal

Also, I tried to stick in some photos. Did it once before, but forgot how I did it. Should be current photo of Turbo V6 in Bugeye, my 69 Austin Healy Sprite (as requested by Charlie) and my 41 Chevy Streetrod. Guess I'll see if they actually got attached.



[/ATTACH]

 

[dr_frankenstein]

wicked cool man, im really excited to see you got it all running!

A.j.

 

[Turbobug]

OOPs! Missed the updated Bugeye engine pic. Here it is:

 

[mat231v6]

WOW looks nice! keep posting pic of your progressive.

 

[turboclam]

Is the downpipe mandrell bent? Just kidding, it looks cool!

 

[WarWagon]

OMG Looks like loads of fun.
I want to take that around the Shenendoah circuit at Summit Point here in WV

 

[charlief1]

purty cars...me like. LOL You got some nice toys for sure. Thanks.

As far as the seal either one of these would work.

FEL-PRO Part # BS40613 {Rear Main Seal Set}
Rear Main Seal Set; Rubber; Two-piece

NATIONAL Part # 5591 {Oil Seal Kit; Outer Diameter=6.24" Width=0.4"}
Rear; Split Seal

 

[Turbobug]

Hey, Thanks for the help.....AGAIN!! I don't know what I would do without the help I get from you all. I'll be back as soon as I get the new seal in and fire it up again. I will likely need some help tuning it in. Can I post videos?

 

[WarWagon]

YES, I'd love to see some video's posted.
I myself plan on posting more but I must wait for the snow to be gone.

 

[charlief1]

I'm with Adam. Post some vids up as links and we'd love to see them.