Based on Charie's recommendation I finally fired up the 83 Buick Turbo engine sitting in a 59 Bugeye Sprite without the turbo hooked up. It ran great until the rubber hose from the oil pump to the turbo blew off. I reatteched it and tightened it down snug and its OK so far. That brings up the first question. I noticed these are hard lines from the factory. Will rubber do or should I redo with steel? I guess if the turbo doesn't get oil for a while it's a death sentence. I wired a pressure switch to cut off the electric fuel pump when the oil pressure drops, but the carb could keep feeding fuel for a while.
After I cleaned up, and restarted the engine, I noticed a new puddle. Looks like the rear seal on the crank shaft is leaking. The engine sat around for 2 years in the prior owner's garage after rebuild, so maybe that skunked the seals. Manual says that initial leaks are not unusual and it will quit after oil and heat swell the fabric. I dumped in some additive to help, but so far (5 hours of driving or running on blocks) it's still leaking badly. Any tips on replacing the main seal without removing the engine. I had a hard time squeezing it in the first time and don't look forward to removal.
I built the Pete's Buick PECV (PEVR) replacement set-up (the one that uses Ford vacuum switched and a Hobbs switch) to control the power valve in the carb. I need a good place to put the Hobbs switch so it can sense boost/vaccume differential. Any suggestions? The intake manifold seems void of any good taps. How about the base of the elbow(of the turbo housing)?
Final question......how far does the wastegate actuater arm actually move to open or close the gate? Mine goes maybe a quarter to a half inch. Is that normal? Ive never seen the inside of one of these.
Thanks for the help. Spring is just around the corner and I'm eyeballing a registration form for a local hillclimb.
After I cleaned up, and restarted the engine, I noticed a new puddle. Looks like the rear seal on the crank shaft is leaking. The engine sat around for 2 years in the prior owner's garage after rebuild, so maybe that skunked the seals. Manual says that initial leaks are not unusual and it will quit after oil and heat swell the fabric. I dumped in some additive to help, but so far (5 hours of driving or running on blocks) it's still leaking badly. Any tips on replacing the main seal without removing the engine. I had a hard time squeezing it in the first time and don't look forward to removal.
I built the Pete's Buick PECV (PEVR) replacement set-up (the one that uses Ford vacuum switched and a Hobbs switch) to control the power valve in the carb. I need a good place to put the Hobbs switch so it can sense boost/vaccume differential. Any suggestions? The intake manifold seems void of any good taps. How about the base of the elbow(of the turbo housing)?
Final question......how far does the wastegate actuater arm actually move to open or close the gate? Mine goes maybe a quarter to a half inch. Is that normal? Ive never seen the inside of one of these.
Thanks for the help. Spring is just around the corner and I'm eyeballing a registration form for a local hillclimb.