three dead alternators

[Chuck Leeper]

When you do a volt drop, have the engine running.
W/engine running: Pos side test, - probe on alt stud, + probe on batt +
@ 40 A charge rate, drop should be <.4v. @ 100 A rate, < .8V. A clamp on amp meter is a good method to test the amp rate.
Grnd side, - probe on alt case, + on engine, or over to the - batt post. Should be <.5V.

Other items:
Belt slip.
Tensioner took a dump, allowing above.
Belt stretched, or wrong length.
Charge wire corroded at/under the connection insulation.

 

[m3x1c0]

kirban two cents worth we offer brand new 120 and 200 amp alternators with warranty 100% correct looking. One key thing is the pulley on the correct ones is difficult to find today and may not be on many of the various rebuilts today. I had to have that pulley made as that is a key part to making it charge properly. Any alternator can fail even with new parts. Fact of life....my source tests each one. Any warranty issues we stand behind them.

Again our alternators are unique on the 1986-1987 Turbo Regals. We sel a lot of them. My source has been in the alternator business for over 25 years. Entire unit is 100% brand new not rebuilt.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

got my new alt from oreillys. put it on and as i tightened the nut to the connections on the back of the alt i noticed it would not tighten because the post i was screwing to was twisting freely. took the connections out and was able to wiggle the post in and out. tried to tighten that but it acted like it was stripped.

Im ordering from you today dennis. I need the car soon so hopefully shipping comes through quick.

 

[m3x1c0]

The fuel pumps love the volt booster but they beat up the alternators. I find it hard to believe you are getting multiple bad alternators. More than likely you have a bad connection.

Do you remember if John had a booster on this car? I don't see one but not exactly sure what it would look like.

 

[Steve V]

Do you remember if John had a booster on this car? I don't see one but not exactly sure what it would look like.

There's no booster on that car.

 

[m3x1c0]

slapped the kirban alt on and wow that pulley is way bigger than the ones from the store. Works good. Little worried because im seeing as high as 15.1 volts on the scanmaster and today noticed it making a lot of noise. very whiny and when I do the screwdriver trick to my ear it sounds heinous. maybe thats just how a working alternator sounds? Oh well. it is working. I'll probably nab an impala alternator as well and throw it in the trunk before I take my annual trip to see family. fingers crossed!

 

[novaderrik]

put the charging circuit back to stock, with the exciter wire going thru the light in the dash... GM built millions upon millions of cars, trucks, vans, rv's, and dump trucks over a period of several decades with that exact circuit without any problems... i don't get why people think they need to bypass it when the tabs in the cluster just need to be cleaned and pulled up to make better contact in a few of the cars that have made it to the 30 year old mark..

 

[HighMileage]

When my original alternator started being intermittent,I brought it to a local rebuilder and had it rebuilt.
This rebuilder rebuilds starters,alternators and electric motors for car and truck repair shops.

All rebuilds are done on premises.

I had my original rebuilt. I believe it was about $120 five years ago.

Con-Rel is the name. Been using them for years. There must be a place like this near you.

I wouldn't trust any of those discount parts places with parts like this. Who rebuilt it? Where? Did they throw in a used voltage reg because it worked?

I wouldn't order one online,either. If ever a warantee claim arises,it's waiting time. (Sound of crickets goes here)

 

[Steve V]

I rebuild my own. Very easy. Lots of videos on the net for guidance.

If it has bearing noise that's not normal. But a whine whistle is to be expected. I bought on from Dennis last winter and it had a faulty voltage regulator. Had to send it back. Voltage light flickering at key on engine off.

 

[m3x1c0]

I rebuild my own. Very easy. Lots of videos on the net for guidance.

If it has bearing noise that's not normal. But a whine whistle is to be expected. I bought on from Dennis last winter and it had a faulty voltage regulator. Had to send it back. Voltage light flickering at key on engine off.

Know anyplace that sells a rebuild kit?

 

[m3x1c0]

drove to breakfast this morning and all of a sudden was seeing 15.5 volts. Ate breakfast and came back out and now its back down to 11 and dropping. fuck me. $200 alternator doesnt even work. This is the point where I get sick of this shit and the car sits for weeks. DAMNIT!

 

[Steve V]

EBay ,amazon sell kits.

You have another issue can not be that many bad alternators in a row.

Belt
Tensioner
Battery cables
Grounds
Some piece of aftermarket equipment etc.

Toss the field fix. Does the stock wire excite the alt? Does the volt light work in cluster.

Run a dedicated 12v ignition fed wire with correct fuse in line to simulate load of bulb in cluster. Does it charge it now.

 

[m3x1c0]

EBay ,amazon sell kits.

You have another issue can not be that many bad alternators in a row.

Belt
Tensioner
Battery cables
Grounds
Some piece of aftermarket equipment etc.

Toss the field fix. Does the stock wire excite the alt? Does the volt light work in cluster.

Run a dedicated 12v ignition fed wire with correct fuse in line to simulate load of bulb in cluster. Does it charge it now.

The bearings in this one are trashed. What would cause that? I did the voltage drop tests according to chuck and they were good. The brown wire that connects to the alt is getting power. Is that the exciter?

 

[whitehot1]

Why not drive the car to the auto parts store and have them test your charging system with it running?

The battery could be the problem if it has a weak cell or two. No alternator will last very long if that is the problem.

 

[GNRick]

I wouldn't trust the parts stores. Oreilly's told me my alternator was bad when it was actually the battery. Go to an electrical repair place that knows what they Are doing.

 

[Steve V]

The bearings in this one are trashed. What would cause that? I did the voltage drop tests according to chuck and they were good. The brown wire that connects to the alt is getting power. Is that the exciter?

New alternator one would think it would have new bearings. Maybe Dennis will see this and chime in. I know his units are built local and tested.

The alternator gets excited by the voltage on the brown wire. That makes it charge. No voltage no charge. Sounds like yours is fine.

You have a new battery correct?

 

[m3x1c0]

New alternator one would think it would have new bearings. Maybe Dennis will see this and chime in. I know his units are built local and tested.

The alternator gets excited by the voltage on the brown wire. That makes it charge. No voltage no charge. Sounds like yours is fine.

You have a new battery correct?

The battery is a few months old but has tested good twice. I think the bearings are what caused the issue on this one. Perhaps a bad tensioner or belt too tight? Doesn't seem likely but I have to rule everything out that I can. I have been known to have terrible luck though. The last two alts before the Kirban were verified bad right out of the box. that means the only ones that could have been damaged by something on my end are the 2 I had before and the Kirban one. About to pick up the impala one and will test before leaving the store.

 

[whitehot1]

The battery is a few months old but has tested good twice. I think the bearings are what caused the issue on this one. Perhaps a bad tensioner or belt too tight? Doesn't seem likely but I have to rule everything out that I can. I have been known to have terrible luck though. The last two alts before the Kirban were verified bad right out of the box. that means the only ones that could have been damaged by something on my end are the 2 I had before and the Kirban one. About to pick up the impala one and will test before leaving the store.

Drive the car there and have them test the system while you're there.

 

[m3x1c0]

Drive the car there and have them test the system while you're there.

I took it off and had it tested earlier today thats how I know its bad. It failed every test. Bearing is clearly bad as the pulley does not want to spin.

 

[m3x1c0]

Tossed the impala alt on last night. Fired it up and showed good voltage. Voltage drop measured the same and is good. belt is tight and no squeaking. Exciter wire still good. Funny I realized that this alt is Identical to the one that I originally had. The PO must have upgraded to the Impala. Had no idea till I saw what the impala one looked like. Maybe more Amps will help?

Haven't driven it and probably wont for a little while cuz im still pretty pissed at it. Gonna shove it under its cover and ride the bike before the weather gets too cold. Maybe that will clear my head and I can think of what im doing wrong here.

 

[whitehot1]

I still think it would be a good idea to have the charging system checked out with the car running. If you have a place close by that you trust would be best,just in case there is still a problem. Good luck with this problem and keep us posted to what the cause was.