ticking noise after valve springs

[topfuel]

I recently installed a set of Kirbans valve springs, now it seems
the valve train is noiser at idle. I hear a slight tapping sound
that wasn't there before the spring replacement.
The car runs fine, but I'm concerned about the noise.
I'll take the valve covers back off to see if everything is ok,
what should I look for?
I did torque the rocker shafts evenly, and to specs.
Thanks

 

[GNSS]

I replaced mine a while back and have a similar ticking noise after I beat on it. I think its the lifters.
It's probably a good idea to replace the timing chain and gears because new springs would futher stress the set.

Jeff

 

[TurboTR]

Did you check for installed height and coilbind margin and all? Do you have any shims under the springs?

TurboTR

 

[topfuel]

Originally posted by TurboTR
Did you check for installed height and coilbind margin and all? Do you have any shims under the springs?

TurboTR

Ummm, no...
Was I supposed to check all that stuff?
I thought I could just change the springs and be
good to go, according to the instructions.
Nothing was mentioned about installed height or
shims, I thought that kind of stuff was only necessary
when performing a valve job or changing the geometry
of the valve train.
Please correct me if I'm wrong because I don't want
to cause any problems to happen.
I'd like to keep this motor in one piece as long as possible.
Thanks guys

 

[WE1]

I installed the recommended valve spring upgrade also on a 116,000 mile orig. 87 GN. At 1.700" installed height it measured at 112# on the seat. I also had the ticking sound from the top end, seemed to be more on the drivers side. I started worrying about the front cam bearing, but eventually the sound diminished. Shortly thereafter I wiped the #5 exhuast lobe out. So the car is now down, I just installed a new 206/206 cam, rollmaster and GM lifters (pricey little items!). I'm planning and saving to upgrade to a TE44 and 009's along with a chip to match. But for now a stock turbo and inj. will have to do. But first a boost gauge and Direct Scan. Just my experience with new valve springs, ticking sounds and an engine with a few miles on it. Hope you have better luck.

 

[topfuel]

Ouch WE1, that hurts

Thats exactly the kind of problem I'm trying to avoid.
The sound is just slight right now, but I know for sure
it wasn't there before the new springs, so something
has changed and it's probably not good...

So are you guys telling me I should check the spring
pressure cause I might have too much?

I thought this was gonna be a simple upgrade, but I
feel like I just opened a new can of worms.

What kind of springs did you use WE1?

 

[LikeMy6]

I installed the same set of springs from kirban as well and had the same ticking noise. I got rid of it by putting the motor under a load by driving it right away and getting on it some to raise the pressure of the oil before it thinned out from the temperature. it quickly went away. The ticking is caused by the lifters bleeding down from the added pressure of the new springs compared to the limp old ones. another thing that will help it go away is some thicker oil like 15-50 mobil1. If you let the ticking continue the cam will most likely wipe a lobe by the lifter beating it to death. thats whats ticking!


Later

Frank

 

[salvageV6]

Somebody should check someday just exactly what Kirban is selling for our cars.

I have a machine to check them but I ain't buying any of his springs.

Comp. Cams 979's or 980's are known to work fine for our cars.

 

[Roc87]

I have the comp cam springs and I'm getting the same ticking. But at 142k miles I figure it'll be do for a rebuild soon, so if I wipe a cam, it'll be excuse to pull out the motor and build it fresh. Just hope it'll make it to Vegas and back before that happens!

 

[TurboTR]

Well coilbind is a real danger for our engines, we have limited lift room to begin with. You need an adequate coilbind margin too (about .060"), and I assume you don't know what it is on your engine currently. One thing you'll learn about the turbo v6, *never* assume anything is going to be right. Always check beforehand. JME.

For example, my new cam. Sounds easy enough, but mocking it all up last week, was real pleased to discover that it contacts the rod bolts. Good thing I didn't sell the old one yet <sigh>...

TurboTR

 

[TClassic]

MANY guys have wiped thier cams after installing new Springs on a high mileage motor!! Original 16 year old springs, even on a Lower mileage motor are VERY weak, and we're putting a lot more stress on the OTHER 16 year old components in the Valve train!! Changing springs is ALWAYS a gamble! I changed mine at 59,000mi and just got lucky I guess.

 

[Red Regal T]

Originally posted by salvageV6
Somebody should check someday just exactly what Kirban is selling for our cars.

I have a machine to check them but I ain't buying any of his springs.

Comp. Cams 979's or 980's are known to work fine for our cars.

I look at it the other way around. Kirban is a Buick vendor. You have to buy your comp cams stuff through chevy vendors. There is no getting mixed up with Kirban springs because he only sells one kind and obviously chevy people ARE mixed up.

I replaced mine at about 150,000 miles with springs from Kirbans with no problem. I'm now at 220,000 and have another set on the shelf I will be installing soon.

REALLY MINT 87 TTYPE WITH ONLY 220,000 ORIG MILES

 

[TurboBuickSix]

Kirban has been around a while,I would expect them to get something like this right.It is always the installers responsibility wheather or not everything is perfect,it is this that makes him/her "qualified".

 

[TClassic]

Kirbans or not, you should ALWAYS have your favorite machine shop check your spring pressures, and you should always measure the INstalled height!

 

[salvageV6]

I'd bet my bottom dollar you are getting a Chevy or GTO spring from Kirban.

Trust him? Only with the proper method to sign my trunklid.

He has a disclaimer in all his newsletters that states he's not a mechanic, he's a salesman.

I've spent a couple a K on parts from him, his "unknown" springs would be the last thing I'd buy.

Comp. cams are generic springs and very well made. I get mine at speedshops which cater to every make. They are not Chevy springs.

Just my .02 from actually testing them.

PS: Budget rollers were sold by "Buick Vendors".

 

[TurboTR]

Well nobody needs to knock him or any other vendor about this, the point is that issues like this need to be checked before they go in, no matter where the parts came from...

TurboTR

 

[salvageV6]

Nope that's too logical.

 

[WE1]

I used the LT1 springs, did some checking before the install, and called several knowledgable V-6 folks. The springs I used are fine, the pressure at installed height was right on at 112#. You'll lose a little pressure when the springs are "worn in" with a few miles. I think the lobe wiping issue was just an unfortunate coincidence. Nobody to blame or flame, I stuck stronger springs on a fairly well seasoned engine with a worn cam and lifters and something went south................oh well, it gave me a chance to upgrade a little, so no real harm done.

 

[salvageV6]

112lbs. on a stock cam is over 25% too much force from the high side of the spec.

 

[WE1]

The 112# figure is before any run-in time, I would guesstimate that I'd lose up to 10% after its run in for a while, possibly a little less. Also I'm running the 206/206 Comp Cams Extreme Energy profile, which is a pretty aggressive profile. I would need a little more spring because of the lobe profiles design. But I would agree that its too much spring for a stock cam. Thanks for the input.