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Timing chain replacement coming soon. Advice needed.

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dragrazor

Active Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2012
Messages
666
My gn currently has 128k miles. Recently i found pieces of the timing chain sprocket(teeth) in the oil so i have to do it soon. My car is not and will not be a race car. It is mostly stock save for a chip,power plate,upgraded fuel pump. Nothing else. My questions are: should i replace the chain with another stock replacement? If I go with an aftermarket, which one do you recommend(considering it will probably remain stock)? I am replacing the water pump and installing a 160 thermostat since i am there. Anything else that you recommend me replacing considering the parts that will be removed? Seals? Gaskets? Any upgrades through the years that i may now consider installing? I have leaks coming from the front of the motor that drips onto the exhaust crossover pipe and my rear main is leaking. I would like to do this once. Anything i should tell the mechanic to do,look for? The mechanic doing the job has worked on gn's but is not an expert with these cars. Thank you in advance.
 
I'd use a double roller timing chain and leave off the chain tensioner. For gaskets I'd use a felpro timing cover gasket, I'm not sure if you can get them single or if you must buy a gasket kit. Check out kirbans or a board vendor for the chain. I think TA performance sells them too.
 
Spend the extra money for a stock replacement set. They're quiet and last 20 years or 150,000 miles, which ever comes first.

The tentioner you can get at the local fast food auto parts store along with the gasket kit, FelPro TCS45930
 
Do it once and be done with it! ;)

Get the TA Performance Billet Steel Timing Gears & Single Row (Stock Style) Chain c/w chain tensioner. You will not be disappointed. While you're there why not also order & install TA Performance's Replacement Front Cover. Order new Oil Pump gears & cover plate c/w gaskets while you're at it. This comes with a new front seal, so you'll just need a rear main seal to finish it off.
When installing your oil pan do not use the blue rubber oil pan gasket, only use a cork gasket. EIther a Duttweiller cork gasket or Cometic cork gasket work well.

If you'd prefer to deal with one of the Buick Vendors on the board...you can get this stuff from several. I know that Nick at Arizona GN can supply these and has a great deal of experience with their installation. Believe Dennis Kirban at Kirbans' Performance also has these parts available too. It's not an inexpensive undertaking, but you don't want to scrimp on these parts cause you only want to do this once and have another 200,000miles of trouble free daily driving.

I did exactly as stated in the above last winter while the car was laid up in storage. Couldn't be happier! Running gear is silent and the oil pressure is now 25lbs # at hot idle. :)
 
1KWIKSIX said:
Do it once and be done with it! ;)

Get the TA Performance Billet Steel Timing Gears & Single Row (Stock Style) Chain c/w chain tensioner. You will not be disappointed. While you're there why not also order & install TA Performance's Replacement Front Cover. Order new Oil Pump gears & cover plate c/w gaskets while you're at it. This comes with a new front seal, so you'll just need a rear main seal to finish it off.
When installing your oil pan do not use the blue rubber oil pan gasket, only use a cork gasket. EIther a Duttweiller cork gasket or Cometic cork gasket work well.

If you'd prefer to deal with one of the Buick Vendors on the board...you can get this stuff from several. I know that Nick at Arizona GN can supply these and has a great deal of experience with their installation. Believe Dennis Kirban at Kirbans' Performance also has these parts available too. It's not an inexpensive undertaking, but you don't want to scrimp on these parts cause you only want to do this once and have another 200,000miles of trouble free daily driving.

I did exactly as stated in the above last winter while the car was laid up in storage. Couldn't be happier! Running gear is silent and the oil pressure is now 25lbs # at hot idle. :)

I looked up their website. I guess I would have to call them and ask them about the parts you mentioned. What is a c/w tensioner and c/w gaskets?
 
Lots of different opinions here which is great but still don't know which route to go. I guess I really don't want a chain that will give me false knock readings. Anyone else? Thank you by the way.
 
If you want it to last go with the stock style with the damper/tensioner like the one from TA. You won't regret it. :)
 
Lots of different opinions here which is great but still don't know which route to go. I guess I really don't want a chain that will give me false knock readings. Anyone else? Thank you by the way.

I looked up their website. I guess I would have to call them and ask them about the parts you mentioned. What is a c/w tensioner and c/w gaskets?

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Just give Nick Micale a call at Arizona GN. He knows the products req'd and TA Performance Part numbers. Nick will fix you up. ;)

Here's his contact info:

Nick Micale 3334 West Marconi Avenue Phoenix, AZ 85053 Preferred Telephone Hours: Monday thru Friday 8:00am to 9:00am and 6:00pm to 8:00pm Arizona Time Zone (602) 866-9908 Questions, Orders, Comments….Email Anytime! arizonagn@q.com
 
Forgot to mention, but wanted to add: change your water pump too. Might as well change this since you've got the entire front apart. Why take a chance on re-installing a 25 year old water pump. Just makes sense IMHO.

dave
 
2X on the TA silent chain with billet sprockets. This chain set is very close to the factory chain and sprocket from a design standpoint. It allows you to retain the chain tensioner and upgrades the material used in the sprockets to steel. They will be quiet (very close in noise level to the factory plastic sprocket and chain), and probably out live the car.

Here are a couple of other tips that were not mentioned previously:

  • Remove the oil pan and the oil pump pickup screen. It will be packed with plastic from the cam sprocket. Failure to clean out the debris will cause a loss of oil pressure and will damage your bearings.

  • Replace the factory cam shaft thrust button and spring (black plastic) with the rollerized version available from NAPA. There was a factory TSB that advised Buick technicians about this new part.

While the front cover is off, it should be completely disassembled, cleaned, inspected, and carefully reassembled. If the gears or cover show any scoring or wear (likely), NOW is the time to address and correct the issues. The pump clearances are critical to producing and maintaining adequate oil flow and pressure. Special attention needs to be paid to the front cover. I like to replace the front cover rope seal with the rubber lip seal (included in a Fel Pro front cover gasket kit).

EARL BROWN has a very good write up on how to port and set up the front cover. Do a search. The Buick Motorsports manual also describes these modifications at length. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.............. but not absolutely required!!

Dave
 
Okay, so this is what i have so far:

Timing cover- TA 1530A
Timing chain damper- TA V1394
Billet timing set- TA V1522A

New water pump, new camshaft thrust button and spring, new oil pump gears and cover plate. FelPro TCS45930, rear main seal.

Is this pretty much it?
 
Is there any specific reason you guys change the timing cover?
 
Is there any specific reason you guys change the timing cover?


There are multitude of reasons. The TA Performance Timing Cover is machined in house by TA Performance to a much tighter tolerance than the factory covers. The oil passages are slightly larger and less cast flashing than GM covers, so the net result is better flow & resulting oil pressures. When you change the oil pump gears & install new oil pump cover plate (set the oil pump gear clearances by using different thickness gskts available).....you will get greatly improved oil pressure....particularly at low rpm (idle).
Another good reason to install the TA front cover is that it has the front seal installed on the outside of the cover vs the factor cover which has the seal on the inside which would require removal of the entire front cover in order to change the seal in the future. The TA cover features 3 retaining scresws that hold the seal in place in the event that this became pressurized.
 
Over time, sometimes these cars swallow debris and it goes through the pump. Since the pump gears are steel, and the housing is aluminum, the housing takes the brunt of the wear. Once it's worn, you can't machine the pocket smaller.
It's one of those things that you just have to do while the cover is on the workbench. It's way too much trouble to pull it at a later date to improve the oiling when it's simple at the moment.
 
Okay, so this is what i have so far:

Timing cover- TA 1530A
Timing chain damper- TA V1394
Billet timing set- TA V1522A

New water pump, new camshaft thrust button and spring, new oil pump gears and cover plate. FelPro TCS45930, rear main seal.

Is this pretty much it?



One correction & addition to the above:

1) You want the TA V1522B Billet Timing Set!
2)Be sure to order the TA gasket kit for the oil pump too as you'll need to try a bunch of gaskets in different thicknesses in order to settle on the correct one in order to set the proper oil pump gear to cover clearances.

Get a tube of "The Right Stuff" for your rear main seal installation.

Once you've got all these parts rounded up, you'll be good to go!

Good Luck.

dave
 
Ok, don't mean to hijack here, but is there a definitive list of all the stuff one needs to change while replacing the chain? I already bought the TA V1522B Billet Timing Set and was going to replace the water pump(GMB), oil pan gasket(cork), the rear main seal(neoprene), and get a Felpro front cover gasket set.
 
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