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tta1240

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Joined
May 5, 2003
Messages
510
well i broke another ring and pinion in the rear of my tta and cannot find any
after market 327 gear.my ? is would 370 or 373 be to tall,i do have alot of lag
on the line and i would think a set of 373 or 370 would help.lf anyone has thease gears in let me know. thanks
 
What are you doing to break these.. man I've tried my hardest..could never do one in..

Lag is a converter/boost control issue.
 
373 gears

i dont no why but both sets of ring a pinion i put in have gotten noisey and
then they brake.its not like my car has too much my best has been a 11.70
@118 with a 198 60ft.does anyone have a opinion on a 373 or 370 :eek:
 
3.73 vs 3.23, in the normal world the 3.73 would be the no brainer choice for performance. In the turbo Buick world this gets confusing. Our cars won't build boost in neutral because theres no load on the motor. We don't build our high HP until we get the boost up. If you run a 3.73 it seams like the motor doesn't get loaded down as much in first gear, and the turbo seams to come on funny. If you run a lower number ratio the motor will be loaded down better in first gear, and then the torque of the motor combined with the torque mutiplication of the torque convertor will care of the rest.
My good friend Roger Davis ran a mid/low 10 second 87' GN before he built his stage 1 Geo Metro. I watched Roger make several passes in the car and I drove it down the track a few times over the years he had it. His car always looked goofy making a pass. It looked like it launched soft, even though his 60' times where pretty good, and then about 50,60,70.. or so feet out the damn rear bumper would squat a few inches and the thing would look like it was launching for a second time. So with the 3.73 gear....
Did his car launch good: yes (low 1.5's usually @ around 10 psi launch)
Did his car run good ET's: Yes (he would have done very well in TSM)

The thing is Roger was always knocking down 129 to 131 mph in his GN. 131 mph in a Brick with a non lock up TC is some pretty good horse power. I still to this day think that if Roger would have tried a 3.25 or so gear that his car would have looked like and felt like it was launching harder and I think the 60' time would have showed it.

I went 1.46 sec 60' with 3.25 gear and 8 psi launch off the foot brake, and I know I didn't have near the HP Roger had, and we where running the exact same TC. We also weighed the cars and Roger's was about 200 pounds lighter than mine. I know other TTA guys have run close/same/better with similar gear ratios and boost levels. It seams like TTA's are having better luck with thier 3.23's than the GN guys are with thier 3.42's.

The only other input I have is that I would not consider a 3.73 at all to help you at the track unless you where locking up the torque convertor. My low rpm stock long block / 3200 rpm n/l torque convertor combo always forced me to grab overdrive WELL before the end of the track. This always hurt my mph through the traps. A car just won't pull in overdrive like it does in drive. Its also harder than hell on the built trans and those are expensive. You could always consider going to a Ford 9". It cost me about $1300 to put the Moser 9" in my car.

HTH: Jason
 
tta1240 said:
i dont no why but both sets of ring a pinion i put in have gotten noisey and
then they brake.its not like my car has too much my best has been a 11.70
@118 with a 198 60ft.does anyone have a opinion on a 373 or 370 :eek:

There has to be another issue. Maybe your axles are bent, housing twisted, pinion bearing setup wrong.. etc..

I have tried to kill one of these rear ends.. actually two separate rear ends.. hundreds of sub 1.7 60 foots.. ebrake launches, on slicks, stickies, etc.. never.. the gears will tweak after some time and start to howl when you decel.. but thats bout it.

Posi's.. have killed a few of those.

Get another 9bolt from like an 88 GTA with the same 3.27.. swap the brakes over, Mobil 1 synthetic.. bang on it all you want. Personally I wouldnt drop one more .01 into a rear end that has had two sets of ring/pinions break.
 
postal said:
3.73 vs 3.23, in the normal world the 3.73 would be the no brainer choice for performance. In the turbo Buick world this gets confusing. Our cars won't build boost in neutral because theres no load on the motor. We don't build our high HP until we get the boost up. If you run a 3.73 it seams like the motor doesn't get loaded down as much in first gear, and the turbo seams to come on funny. If you run a lower number ratio the motor will be loaded down better in first gear, and then the torque of the motor combined with the torque mutiplication of the torque convertor will care of the rest.
My good friend Roger Davis ran a mid/low 10 second 87' GN before he built his stage 1 Geo Metro. I watched Roger make several passes in the car and I drove it down the track a few times over the years he had it. His car always looked goofy making a pass. It looked like it launched soft, even though his 60' times where pretty good, and then about 50,60,70.. or so feet out the damn rear bumper would squat a few inches and the thing would look like it was launching for a second time. So with the 3.73 gear....
Did his car launch good: yes (low 1.5's usually @ around 10 psi launch)
Did his car run good ET's: Yes (he would have done very well in TSM)

The thing is Roger was always knocking down 129 to 131 mph in his GN. 131 mph in a Brick with a non lock up TC is some pretty good horse power. I still to this day think that if Roger would have tried a 3.25 or so gear that his car would have looked like and felt like it was launching harder and I think the 60' time would have showed it.

I went 1.46 sec 60' with 3.25 gear and 8 psi launch off the foot brake, and I know I didn't have near the HP Roger had, and we where running the exact same TC. We also weighed the cars and Roger's was about 200 pounds lighter than mine. I know other TTA guys have run close/same/better with similar gear ratios and boost levels. It seams like TTA's are having better luck with thier 3.23's than the GN guys are with thier 3.42's.

The only other input I have is that I would not consider a 3.73 at all to help you at the track unless you where locking up the torque convertor. My low rpm stock long block / 3200 rpm n/l torque convertor combo always forced me to grab overdrive WELL before the end of the track. This always hurt my mph through the traps. A car just won't pull in overdrive like it does in drive. Its also harder than hell on the built trans and those are expensive. You could always consider going to a Ford 9". It cost me about $1300 to put the Moser 9" in my car.

HTH: Jason

Jason,
What do you think about running the 3.45 rear gear instead of the 3.27? This would be on a basically stock car (Minor mods, Boost, FP reg and chip). Would 3.45 be enough to give a little more snap to the V6 without taking away too much load on the motor for boost build up?

- Dave
 
id stay with the 3.27.. My ring and pinion went out, all i could find was 3.70 or 3.73 , so i went with the 3.70.. I was running 12.7 at 110 here at 5000 ft went over to the the 3.70 and i lost 5 miles per hour and running slower.. best iv run so far with the 3.70 is a 13.3 at 105.. im looking in to switching back =c)
 
To find a 3.45 you'll have to find a 305/5speed iroc/formula/t/a.

You may wanna look into grabbing a 2.77 rear, the third gens came with 2.77's, 3.27's, 3.45's and 3.70's in 9 bolt configurations. If and when I get this thing up again and the tranny(limited life left anyway) goes a th400/2.77 rear is an interesting option to me(on a true 26" tire). If the idea holds true about a taller rear gear loading the engine and hence spooling it may be a killer setup for not much invested....
 
OK guys I got a little new feed back. My proctologist buddy (DR Boost) and i have been discussing gear ratios for over a year now. He was interested in trying a 3.73 in his GN. I told him alot of guys say it supposedly doesn't work. I used my arguments with him like in my above post. He just went to a 9" ford and I let him try my center section with a 3.25 gear and a detroit locker set up. His old set up was the stock GN 3.42 with clutch type posi. He said you can tell the locker really couples the two tire together under straight line driving, he said it feels really solid and he likes that. He said the 3.25 gear makes the car feel like it has more torque. He said you can tell the motor is getting loaded down more and he said the motor is responding positively to this. We'll have to wait and see if he'll ever try a 3.73.

One thing to keep in mind is that the old proctologist has a pretty stout motor. From what I've read and seen a motor that makes lots of torque will like a numerically lower gear ratio. It just seams like a motor like that needs to grunt against the gear, it needs to be loaded down, and buy doing that it allows the motor to do what it does best which is generating torque.

Torque is the actual FORCE that accelerates a car. Horse power is not measured it is calculated, because its a function of force over time. HP = TQ X RPM / 5250. Below 5250 rpms TQ is always higher than HP and above 5250 RPM HP is always higher than TQ.

Torque is the rotational force applied around an axis. Imagine if you welded a regular old hex nut in the center of the end of your axle. If you took and put 100 pounds on the end of a 3' long breaker bar parallel to the ground you would have 300 ft-lbs of torque trying to rotate your axle(3' X 100 lbs = 300 ft-lbs, and yes its that simple). If you put the same 100 lbs on the end of a 4' breaker bar you would now have 400 ft-lbs trying to rotate the axle. Holly COW! imagine a 50' breaker bar 50' x 100 lbs = 5000 ft-lbs of rotational force with only 100 pounds actually put into it. You can easily see how some one could get real greedy in a hurry.

A gear ratio is the mechanical equivlent of the breaker bar above. A 3.00 ratio would be exactly like the 3' bar, 4.00 gear for the 4' bar, and 50.00 gear for the 50' bar. From this you can see why you would want to run a numerically high number gear ratio. Lets say we take the car out of park, use the three bars (say they all weigh nothing to keep it simple), and place the 100 pound weight on the end. Lets say with the 3' bar the car moves forward slowly until the bar hits the ground, the 4' moves the car a little quicker, and the 50' bar drops like there was never any thing attached to it. This is because you will eventually hit a point to where the weight is only going to drop so fast. The 50' bar / 100# weight combo only puts the 5000 ft-lbs of force into the axle when your trying to hold it from rotating or only allowing it to ratate slower than the weights trying to drop. If you allowed it to rotate to fast then the weight and bar combo will never put the 5000 ft-lbs of torque into the axle.....basically you never allowed it to be loaded down.

My physics is a little fuzzy because that was way to many beers and a whole lot of hair follicles ago, but here goes. Moving a car of 3500# 1320' represents a certain amount of work, and HP is the rate at which the force is generated that can be used to do the work ( I probably have that a little messed up in my wording). This is why more HP makes you run a quicker ET. You generated the force at a quicker rate therefore it take less time to do the work (move the 3500# car 1320'). When you gererate the force at a fast enough rate you can and need to go to a numerically higher gear ratio to take full advantage of it.

Now that I probably got that above stuff half F'd up I'll try to make the concept seam simple. Ltes say I go down to my dust and cobweb covered weight set. I'm going to bench press to do some "WORK", I'm going to move 3500# 1320 feet. Lets say 1 bench press moves the weight 2 feet. I could do this work by: (you have to assume you never get tired, you just lift a certain weight at a certain speed based on your strength, or FORCE your muscles can generate.)

bench pressing 10# 660 repititions, and do 350 sets of that.
or: 100# 660 reps, 35 sets
or: 175# 660 reps, 20 sets
or: 350# 660 reps, 10 sets.

You should be able to see from the above that there will be different amount of times required to do the same amount of work. The 10# reps would take forever because you would have to do it 231,000 times. each rep might go pretty quick but your arms would be basically free wheeling and they are only going to go so fast. 350#'s is no way in hell but lets pretend the bar very slowing moved up, you only had to do it 6,600 times, but it moved sooo slow that it took forever. Probably for me the 175# senerio would get done the quickest. It would be the best compromise between loading down my muscles and the speed I could do each rep.

Thats what we get into when looking at gear ratios, We are looking into the optimum compromise between the mechanical advantage of the gear ratio, and engine loading. This will all be affected by the complete combonation of the exact car in question. We are lucky enough to have feed back from similar cars which points us towards the 3.23 to 3.42 range as being the sweet spot. With out more testing or feed back we have to assume that this is correct. You're actually lucky compared to me. I have to try to pick a gear ratio for a stage 2 combo that I have no idea what rpm the motor is going to want to be shifted at, no idea how much power its going to make (700?, 800? 1000?), hell I don't even know how much the damn things going to weigh.

If your running a stock cam motor and running 118mph then I don't think I would try a 3.73. If you where hitting OD then I would go lower than 3.23 if you weren't hitting OD then the 3.45 may be pretty decent. If you do go to the 3.45 and your palnning on doing some thing that makes the MPH go up you will probably want to go to a different cam to increase the rpm range of your motor to stay out of over drive (if your'e running a stock cam now).

HTH: I'm going to bed now, Jason
 
[tta1240]well i broke another ring and pinion in the rear of my tta and cannot find any
after market 327 gear.my ? is would 370 or 373 be to tall,i do have alot of lag
on the line and i would think a set of 373 or 370 would help.lf anyone has thease gears in let me know. thanks


Try these folks; I contacted them last week and they responded with 'they still have the 9 bolt parts.)

Diff Technics
27 Production ave
Kogarah NSW 2217
Sydney Australia
Ph: 61 2 9587 9282
Fax:61 2 9587 9760
WEB www.difftechnics.com.au
E-mail sales@difftechnics.com.au
Monday to Friday 8am till 5pm
 
Have you taken into account the effective launch ratio? What I mean is considering the same combo and same rear gear would moving the gearset around help load the engine any better without having to go to a larger tire or get a lock up converter. Since the third gear 1:1 is unchanged the rpm will not change, thus going through the traps you wouldn't have to hit od (in a 200) nor go to a taller tire.

Assume a th400 no lockup/switchpitch etc. and a 3.25 gear ratio.

with the numerically smaller 2.46 gear/1.46 gearset the applied multipilication factor is 7.995: 2.46X3.25 going into second it's 1.46x3.25=4.745

Now swapping out that gearset to a 2.75/1.57 would equate to an 8.9375 launch ratio and second would be 5.1025. Would the increased multiplication help load the engine better, but not make someone compromise their choice in tire height or how high they have to rev it to get it through the traps...

Bottom line is what would better load the engine thus help spooling and tourqe production? Running a stock 2.46 gearset with 3.42's(8.4132) or the larger gearset with 3.25's(8.9375). I know what the numbers suggest, but does anyone else have any thoughts?
 
Guess you need to have a car thats fast.. then worry bout the little details :eek:

hehe
 
diff solution

does anyone know how to get ahold of diff solution.ive tried several times
to e-mail them and i get no reply.i rely need to get this car back on the road
if anyone has a used set of 327 gears laying around let me know.thanks jim
 
I'd expect a little more advice as well as trying to keep on topic from a forum tech advisor :tongue:
 
trading t/a said:
I'd expect a little more advice as well as trying to keep on topic from a forum tech advisor :tongue:

advice is..KISS.. leave the rear end alone. Guess I need 3.73's :rolleyes: .. hehe

On Ebay there is a place thirdgenranch .. sells tons of third gen parts..theyre in Crete Illinois.. contact them for a complete rear.. I wuldnt build a rear that gone through two gear sets..

See if that helps.
 
Hey Razor

Its Jeremy from the Buick Nats lol

Funny you shoud mention thirdgen ranch.

Its run by a friend of mine and about 30 min from me :-)

He is good to deal with if u go that route

later
Jeremy
 
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