Tools required to change #6 plug

just plain john

El Camino a Go-Go!
For those of you with the factory A/C still in place, what combination of tools works best to change the #6 spark plug? Gotta go buy some.
 
What works for me

All 3/8 drive
Ratchet
24 in extension
Swivel
5/8 spark plug socket (has a rubber boot inside to hold plug)
 
I use what LOT uses, only the socket has the swivel built into it.[A bit less bulky.]
I put the socket in my lathe and turned the OD down, so it slips into the bore in the head a bit easier.
 
Craftsman 3/8 in. Drive Flex Head Quick Release Teardrop Ratchet

I use this:

Craftsman 3/8 in. Drive Flex Head Quick Release Teardrop Ratchet
Sold by Sears | Sears Item# 00944815000 | Model# 44815

Works great with the thin walled spark plug socket with rubber plug holder inside. Best $20 you could spend.

Bob
 
2 12" 3/8 extensions and a craftsman 5/8 swivel spark plug socket ( for chmp alums get the snapon thin wall or grind down the wall of the craftsman
and you have leverage with both hands working from the fender area with the wrench
the 2ft extension setup works for all the plugs not just the #6
3+5 can easily be reached through the powermaster

use an old spark plug boot to thread the plugs back in and the same 2ft of extension to torque the plug to 20ftlbs

takes only minutes to do them all and no busted knuckles
 
also, be ready to learn a whole new verbiage of cuss words!

:D I don't think #6 in my GN is HALF as bad as #8 in the '86 IROC I had. I think there is STILL a black cloud of curse words hanging over Charleston ,SC from THAT tirade.
 
Somewhere I picked up a 12" extension with a permanently affixed plug socket on a ball joint (slick!!). I then add a 24" extension and ALL the plugs are super simple. Basically in and out of the whole job in about 10 minutes (with a brewsky at hand).
 
Universal joint works for me on #6 with 12" extension, dont forget the needle nose pliers for when you install and the socket does not want to release due to the rubber inside the socket. I didnt have to grind my craftsman spark plug socket, it fits fine.

pacecarta, great idea about the old plug boot!
 
The key is that the u-joint must be built in to the 5/8" spark plug socket. I don't know about Craftsman vs Snap On etc. as mine was an el cheapo from Harbor Freight. I found that nothing helps unless the u-joint feature is built into the plug socket as any other combo is toooooo long, at least it is in my GN.

Dean
 
That Snap-on extention with bilt on 5/8 socket is the sh!t. Been usin it for years. Takes less than ten minutes to change plugs.
 
Use the 24" extension on all the plugs, not just #6, the ratchet never goes below the top of the fender and the knuckles never get near anything sharp :-).
 
:D I don't think #6 in my GN is HALF as bad as #8 in the '86 IROC I had. I think there is STILL a black cloud of curse words hanging over Charleston ,SC from THAT tirade.
Don't get me started about that. I don't know what's worse, changed them with the A.I.R. and stock manifolds or with long tube headers:mad:
The key is that the u-joint must be built in to the 5/8" spark plug socket. I don't know about Craftsman vs Snap On etc. as mine was an el cheapo from Harbor Freight. I found that nothing helps unless the u-joint feature is built into the plug socket as any other combo is toooooo long, at least it is in my GN.

Dean
Yup, I got my cheapo swivel spark plug socket from Uh-O'Reillys. I use a 12inch extension. EASY. I haven't used any other plug socket since.

The buick is the easiest thing I've ever changed plugs on aside from my 90 grand am with the pontiac 2.5
 
Ratchet
5/8 spark plug socket
mini sledge hammer
Big sledge hammer with the mini is to small

:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 
Ah, memories. In my first car, a 57 Chevy 2 door sedan with a 235 L6, I could lietrally stand in the engine bay and change them with just a ratchet and socket (no swivels or extensions). Thanks for the replies, I'll look around for one of those swiveled sockets.
 
Back
Top