torque specs please. head studs.rod. main studs

[turbo96max]

Hello I am putting my engine together tonight and i need some help with the torque #s . I have arp head studs, arp rod bolts, and arp main studs. I would also like to know the min and max tolerance i need to check for on the bearings (plastigage). i will be using moly assembly lube

 

[Blown&Injected]

Mains and Rods should be what the machine shop used when doing the align bore/rods.

Head studs should be according to the how much less then the bolts should be formula - adjusted by the type of oil/lube you will use; after 5 torque cycles that the machine shop should have done...My point is that it will be hard to hit the exact target torque.

I bet that the shop just used stock specs for everything and that is on the GN T Type org page.

As far as bearings, put it together with no oil or lube and see what the Plasti-gauge says - then go from there.

.0015 to .0023 is typical for crank and rods.

 

[gnsrule]

If memory serves me the mains are 95, rods are 35 ( better double check) and the heads are 75.
I hope this helps.

 

[Blown&Injected]

That sounds like 5 ft lbs less across the board from stock bolt torque which is should be fine with studs.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Look at the instruction sheets included w/ each ARP kit. They spell out the torque specs that are used for each type of lube..
I use thier brand of lube, only. Never a problem.

 

[blown okie]

plastigauge is junk!!

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Exactly right..

plastigauge is junk!!

Use of PG, especially on the rods, can/will give false readings, as the piston may move in the bore, while the bolts are being torqued. This WILL mash the PG, and give phony reading.
Also, if you must use it, be sure to shim the rods so they don't twist on the crank, when torque is applied. This is also important, when doing final assy.
Only 1 way to do it right:
Use a dial bore gauge, and a mic, and do the math to calculate the real clearances.:wink:

 

[Blown&Injected]

My bore gauge and mics have always told me that Plasti-gauge works very well - wonder how many people do both because that is the only way to know how accurate PG can be when properly used.

 

[Jan Larsson]

My bore gauge and mics have always told me that Plasti-gauge works very well - wonder how many people do both because that is the only way to know how accurate PG can be when properly used.

Same experience here, just building my new engine and gauged everything AND used PG then compared to what the machine shop got and they are all pretty much spot on .. give or take some but close enough ...

 

[turbows6]

Arp wavelock 2000 bolts = 50 WITH GREY GREASE

Mains should be what the machine shop used = I torqued arp studs to 95 with light oil

I torqued my arp head bolts to 95, but if stock type are used they are torque to yield and need a torque angle measurement.

 

[turbo96max]

thanks for all the help guys. i finally put the whole thing together. PG seemed to work fine for me. All were .0015 to .0017. Did rods at 55, mains at 100 like oe spec and heads at 70 , thats what arp recommended with 72 on the long bolts. Learned a few things, like its all very time consuming..I just wish I had a deep oilpan to use. thanks again and will see how it runs and for how long. lol