my best run was a 8.05@83.5 with a 1.69 60ft.this was done with 22# of boost and 108 octane and a turbo tweak race chip.38# static .my lowest 02 was 795.no knock.i was leaving with 5#.the humidity was 70 percent and 87 degrees.shouldnt this thing run in the 7.70's?what should i look for?
track times{need help}
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DonnieShort
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You should be looking into launching harder. If you pulled a 1.69 on a 5psi launch imagine what you would on a 10 psi launch
I just switched over to a PT61 P trim and I had to launch that thing at 14-15 psi. Netted me a 1.551 60' and a 7.246 @ 93.74. You might think about some more boost too.
Not the expert here on this... but it could be you are not running enough boost for having a race chip and race gas. This is why you can run with the lower fuel pressure. I think most people run with low to mid 40's for fuel pressure, but if you did this you'd probably run real rich at only 22 lbs boost. He probably programmed tons of fuel into the chip since its a race chip and you are not using it all. By lowering the fuel pressure to 38# you make up for it somewhat, but not enough. You may be better off with a 100 octane chip at that boost.
If you up the fuel pressure to 43-45 and up the boost to mid 20's, you'll probably be fine (don't quote me on that though). If you want to run safer at lower boost, you probably need to use another chip but keep the fuel pressure the same. Like I said, I'm not an expert on this but I've read a lot where you shouldn't run much lower boost than whats intended for the chip or the car will run very rich and hurt your performance. Your performance may be unrelated to this, but this could be part of it. The intended boost should be written on the chip.
For reference, I ran a 7.85@88mph with a 1.70 60' in my T. So its not the 60'.
If you up the fuel pressure to 43-45 and up the boost to mid 20's, you'll probably be fine (don't quote me on that though). If you want to run safer at lower boost, you probably need to use another chip but keep the fuel pressure the same. Like I said, I'm not an expert on this but I've read a lot where you shouldn't run much lower boost than whats intended for the chip or the car will run very rich and hurt your performance. Your performance may be unrelated to this, but this could be part of it. The intended boost should be written on the chip.
For reference, I ran a 7.85@88mph with a 1.70 60' in my T. So its not the 60'.
i had a 100 lubrant chip in the first run,8.29@82mph with a 1.7560ft.02's were still 790's.so i tried the race chip.i just got back from testing with 25# of boost the 02's were 770's and no knock.still with 38# static.i'm going back to the track fri so i'll see.also i have a nl converter.it stalls 2700-2800.is that hurting me?i had the g-tech and it said 13.4@105,i sure hope that is not right.car feels strong in all gears.
You definitely should be running quicker for that boost with a race chip, especially with a decent 60ft. Something seems off, especially since you got simliar results with both chips. Probably need some more info to see whats up. Just be careful with upping the boost, wouldn't want to hurt anything.
A n/l could cost 3-4 mph in the 1/4 max. Won't affect the times too much. Seems like the car is running fine since you haven't mentioned anything obvious like stumbling, etc which could come from MAF, ignition, etc. Valve springs come to mind when the symptom is a poor top end.
With the bigger turbo/IC/and injectors you should be better than my time with a similar 60ft at 22lbs boost on a stock turbo with a 100 octane chip. You are not running awful, but like you said you should be in the 7.7's or so, I'd think. Double check as many readings as you can with a scan tool, just to be safe.
Lastly, heat can also kill your times. If you are driving to the track and not cooling the car off, this could be your problem. Check your temps when you get ready to run. On one hand you have the coolant temp, and the other you have the intake temp. If your cooling system is not up to par and your water temps are going over 195 or so, this will kill your time as some chips take timing out when temps go up. Good radiator, distilled water instead of antifreeze, and dual RC fans will help there. For the intake temp, if the engine bay is hot and you are pulling hot air into the air filter, this will hurt performance. Some kind of cold air kit will help there. I noticed this big time on my T on hot days and lowered my times significantly by upgrading the cooling system. I have a cold air kit, but best would be one of the 90 degree intakes that drops the air filter into the front fenderwell area. I probably get a mix of hot air in the engine bay and fresh air coming in.
Just the things I can think of off the top of my head. You'll probably run faster with higher boost, but I'd get everything worked out at the lower boost setting of 22 lbs or so first.
A n/l could cost 3-4 mph in the 1/4 max. Won't affect the times too much. Seems like the car is running fine since you haven't mentioned anything obvious like stumbling, etc which could come from MAF, ignition, etc. Valve springs come to mind when the symptom is a poor top end.
With the bigger turbo/IC/and injectors you should be better than my time with a similar 60ft at 22lbs boost on a stock turbo with a 100 octane chip. You are not running awful, but like you said you should be in the 7.7's or so, I'd think. Double check as many readings as you can with a scan tool, just to be safe.
Lastly, heat can also kill your times. If you are driving to the track and not cooling the car off, this could be your problem. Check your temps when you get ready to run. On one hand you have the coolant temp, and the other you have the intake temp. If your cooling system is not up to par and your water temps are going over 195 or so, this will kill your time as some chips take timing out when temps go up. Good radiator, distilled water instead of antifreeze, and dual RC fans will help there. For the intake temp, if the engine bay is hot and you are pulling hot air into the air filter, this will hurt performance. Some kind of cold air kit will help there. I noticed this big time on my T on hot days and lowered my times significantly by upgrading the cooling system. I have a cold air kit, but best would be one of the 90 degree intakes that drops the air filter into the front fenderwell area. I probably get a mix of hot air in the engine bay and fresh air coming in.
Just the things I can think of off the top of my head. You'll probably run faster with higher boost, but I'd get everything worked out at the lower boost setting of 22 lbs or so first.
i let the car cool down to 145- 150,then i go back to the staging lanes.by the time i do my burnout it's 165-170.by the end of the run 175-180.my air temp sensor is just laying in the engine compartment.does it need to be plumbed back in to the kn filter?
Seems like you have most everything covered. Not sure how the intake temp is used by the chip, so I don't know how important it is to read accurately. Maybe some others will chip in to help diagnose whats up with your times and speed. I would also still try to play around with adding fuel pressure and see how it reacts. O2 readings are just a rough guideline and somes cars like different amounts of fuel. Your G tech should be perfect for trying different things and seeing how the car reacts. While not a perfect estimate of your actual 1/4 mile time and speed, it should be great for comparing test runs back to back off the track after making adjustments.
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