Tranny Slips in third

[Sleeper-6]

Well, After 3 years and 18,000 miles my "built" tranny is dying on me. It acts normal under light throttle/no boost conditions. but as soon as I get into it first and second are OK, but as soon at it shifts into third it just gets overpowered and slips. I haven't tried to see if it holds power in overdrive yet. I've got 2 questions.
How long should of a trans last in the combo listed below? Keep in mind, The Alky kit diddn't go on until this summer. Before that It has never been over 17 Psi. Prob has only about a dozen passes down the track total.
Also, What typically causes a trans to start doing this? How much should it cost to fix.
I tried e-mailing the builder a week ago but haven't heard anything back. I'm not gonna say anything bad about the guy until I get him on the phone and discuss my options. Would I be asking too much to look for some sort of support even though I'm out of the warrenty period?

 

[xrunner123]

Take it to Dynotech. I think they are about 1/2 hr from you.

 

[Sleeper-6]

That's who built it. I'm willing to give them a second chance If he works with me on it. I'm not to spend the same amount I did the first time for a complete rebuild. I'm just trying to get an idea of what to expect.

 

[Hacksaw]

Sounds like the direct clutch is dying. To take a look at it you still will need the trans to be pulled out, and mostly disassembled. If reverse is soft engaging or slips, it's the direct clutch for sure.

-Mike H.

 

[xrunner123]

I would give Eric a call and let him drive it to see what he thinks.

 

[Sleeper-6]

Well, I've been in contact with both Dynotech and CK performance. I'm seriously entertaining a third option. I'm considering getting Chris' book, and if it doesen't look too scary, just fixng this myself. I'd rather spend some money on tools and learn how to fix it than pay someone to do for me. If I check the trans with a pressure gauge that should confirm a clutch failure vs. a blown out seal, correct?

 

[chris718]

the direct clutch is failed .the transmission has to come out.the book will get you thru it if you choose to take it on yourself. the absolute fix is dual feeding and a billet drum.after 3 years youd have to say you got your moneys worth.new technology is now available to fix the direct clutch.

 

[Sleeper-6]

Chris, I just Paypaled you the funds for a book, I'm going to check it out and see what I can do. An automatic trans is prob the only thing I haven't taken apart yet. Just to clarify, I can dual feed a factory clutch pack (once it's rebuilt , of course) ? I'm limited on funds, so a billet drum isn't looking too good right now. While it's apart I am considering a billet imput shaft, Is that the first hard part I should replace?

 

[JDSfastGN]

not answering for Chris but from what ive seen in person and read on the board, the forward drum is usually the first to go. I think i would probably spend the money on the drum and skip the input shaft if you can only get one. Good luck with it

 

[Sleeper-6]

OK, for some reason I was thinking it ws the other way around. I really can't swing the funds for both. I know it would be wise to get at least one of them now. I really should change my converter while it's out, but I'm not so sure that's gonna happen.

 

[JDSfastGN]

They are both fairly weak but ive seen forward drums snap in 13 sec cars. Stock input shafts (if its the later design) can take a decent amount of power before letting go(high 11s possibly), but when going fast anything can happen. Talk to Chris and see what he says, but i would go with a billet drum and dual feed the directs. Dual feeding has been the only way for me to get my 2-3 direct clutches to last through the abuse i put it through. (mid 11s daily driven with a heavy foot lol) Chris has a great manual and it has helped me rebuild 3 trannys in the last few months (not the same one haha) and all are doing very well so far. Good luck with it.

 

[chris718]

best of luck on your overhaul.the manual will ship tomorrow.the billet forward drum or input drum is more important than the input shaft.it is also easier to change the input shaft if it fails over the forward drum.the drum and dual feed go together.a stock drum will almost always fail with the dual feed,but the directs wont last without the dual feediing in my opinion.three times the apply pressure,there really is no argument.

 

[Sleeper-6]

Thanks guys, I think I'm actually learning something here. So If I do decide to go through with this myself, I'm going to be dual feeding a billet drum. One last questionon dual feednig. Is it compadable with any previous shift modifications? I wish I knew what exactly what was done , But I'm not sure exactly went on inside during it's last rebuild. 2-3 was always softer than I would have liked it, but it was still a good clean shift. So firming it up would be a definate plus.

 

[chris718]

i am not technically familiar with other companies mods nor have i become interested in their rebuilding practices.i believe that there will be no other major evolutions in the hydraulic controls of our 2004rs in the future. only mechanical upgrades in the form of internal components as we push the envelope on the power levels to be transmitted thru the unit.at any rate the modifications done by most are universal.if the manual is followed it will be easy to undo mods that are undesirable by removing the parts and replacing them etc.the most common is the seperator plate.this is a 29 dollar item so it shouldnt hurt you in the pocket if it needs replacement.