Trans Cooler Needed?

[210 Sport Coupe]

I have a MCSS 200R4 trans with a B&M 2400 stall (12"), Art Carr deep alum. pan, CK billet servo and recalibration kit. It's in a '56 chev with a fresh 355 cu.in.

Before I put the fluid in it and run it, I have the stock trans cooler hooked up to the rad, (stock bottom tank). You guys have a better idea what temp. I would be running with this set up, so do I need an external cooler?

If so, the top trans line flowing into the rad cooler then out from the rad cooler into the external cooler then return line into the bottom trans line?
What if I delete the rad cooler and only run the external cooler only? Would it be too cool temperature?

I have a Vintage Air condensor infront of the rad so I can fit a 6" x 12" cooler behind the bumper or can I get away with a frame mounted cooler next to the trans? This would be the easiest, but would the trans suffer from not cooling enough? On a 55-57 chev, it's hard to access the lines to the bottom of the tank so eliminating it would be my preference but would it be ok?

Sorry for the 100 questions but it's a street cruiser and no track time.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

 

[chopped39]

Run an external by itself. Plus you dont know whats in that cooler in rad. Get a good b&m or a Long trans cooler The plate style is the best. I have been told by 5 good trans guys that 160 degrees is an ideal temp for the trans. So if you run it through the rad the temp will be higher.

 

[SSedan64]

If you're going to run an External Cooler only, don't use the Frame mount type. They are inefficient to begin with plus there's little airflow under the car. Use a stacked Plate & Fin type Cooler.
The TruCool LPD/LowPressureDrop type Coolers are self regulating, cool/thick fluid bypasses the Cooler and is returned to the Trans, hot/thin fluid circulates throught the Cooler. These are made by Long as most other Plate/Fin coolers are.
The Cooler in the Rad also helps get the Trans fluid up to proper operating temp and helps burn off condensation in the Trans. Water cools about 30 times better than air.
Some Temp Info>> TCI - TECHNICAL INFORMATION: Transmission Life Expectancy

LPD flow diagram>> , Cooling products, Bulkpart transmission parts

Long / Tru Cool Oil Coolers Long coolers Setrab coolers B&M coolers L7B

 

[turbo nasty]

H7B Transmission/Engine cooler 1/2 NPT fitting - eBay (item 130387799717 end time Feb-25-11 12:58:01 PST)

Best price I have seen

 

[CreepinDeth]

H7B Transmission/Engine cooler 1/2 NPT fitting - eBay (item 130387799717 end time Feb-25-11 12:58:01 PST)

Best price I have seen

Is this thing overkill for a street cruising 1970 442 tribute??
350ci with only 300hp/425ft lbs.

I'm looking for a cooler for my car as well with my 200-4R I'm building.
Wasn't sure what to get.

 

[mikestertwo]

I would not eliminate the radiator cooler. Like SSedan64 said the radiator cooler is a lot more efficient and controls the temperature of the oil better for all around driving. You can add an external in series with it but I would not eliminate the radiator cooler. JMHO

 

[liquidh8]

I would not eliminate the radiator cooler. Like SSedan64 said the radiator cooler is a lot more efficient and controls the temperature of the oil better for all around driving. You can add an external in series with it but I would not eliminate the radiator cooler. JMHO

x3. I've put 3000 plus rpm stall converters in OD trannies, the most recent was a 4l65e, in a 2003 Silverado SS. After getting a snazzy plat type cooler, fan and temp switch, dude wanted to eliminate the stock cooler in the rad. well, the trans temp gauge on the dash read 280 degree + with just local cruizing, before the converter would lock up. After putting the stock cooler in series with the snazzy one, 160 all day long. This was a Vortec blown LQ9, dynoed at 670 to the wheels. Extreme example I know, but if you have a higher than stock stall, and do any kind of driving, I would run both.

 

[210 Sport Coupe]

x3. I've put 3000 plus rpm stall converters in OD trannies, the most recent was a 4l65e, in a 2003 Silverado SS. After getting a snazzy plat type cooler, fan and temp switch, dude wanted to eliminate the stock cooler in the rad. well, the trans temp gauge on the dash read 280 degree + with just local cruizing, before the converter would lock up. After putting the stock cooler in series with the snazzy one, 160 all day long. This was a Vortec blown LQ9, dynoed at 670 to the wheels. Extreme example I know, but if you have a higher than stock stall, and do any kind of driving, I would run both.

That is what I was looking for with temp. readings to compare. I'll look into Tru-Cool coolers (stack plate style) and use the rad cooler first. The rad is new so I know that tank is clean. Just not an easy task running straight lines on this chev.

I have been told to use the rad cooler by a few friends but not looking foreward to doing it, Lazy I guess:frown:

Thanks to everyone for the info, all a great help

 

[liquidh8]

Better safe then sorry IMO, especially if the Rad is new. That silverado had a 3800 stall Lock-up converter too, in a heavy truck, but that is why the temp was so high

 

[SSedan64]

Is this thing overkill for a street cruising 1970 442 tribute??
350ci with only 300hp/425ft lbs.

I'm looking for a cooler for my car as well with my 200-4R I'm building.
Wasn't sure what to get.

Yes, that is overkill for a normal cruiser. That is an Industrial size.
You could use one of the Medium size Coolers & they come with Install Kit. The threaded fitting Coolers don't. The 3rd one in medium section should do fine.

These are the same Company, (Bulkpart, Makco, Transmissioncoolers.us)
transmissioncoolers.us