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Trans Question/ Rocker Shafts

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Nasty

Good thing I pulled it out...I am sure that oil pump screen must be really jamed up...Nasty...:):eek:
 

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rocker arm buttons

I read something about Rocker Arm Buttons and that they have a new plastic for them....?? What is is Polyurathane...Tried pushing one of the old ones out and the button broke.. Should I use any special rings for the forged pistons and a turbo ??
 
Crazy Pistons

When I first saw them I said What the F__K??!! talk about a hot spot !! What does that do the Flame Front ?? Crazy Design...Had to be where they poured in the metal into the cast for them and never bothered to to grind it off... Snowing for a while here in PA this morning...They said the sun would be out and in the 50's.....I don't see it...:D
 
Mr. Upholsterer said:
I read something about Rocker Arm Buttons and that they have a new plastic for them....?? What is is Polyurathane...Tried pushing one of the old ones out and the button broke.. Should I use any special rings for the forged pistons and a turbo ??
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The bottons are made of nylon Vince.

You need to see what the piston manufacturer recomends for the rings.

Mr. Upholsterer said:
When I first saw them I said What the F__K??!! talk about a hot spot !! What does that do the Flame Front ?? Crazy Design...Had to be where they poured in the metal into the cast for them and never bothered to to grind it off... Snowing for a while here in PA this morning...They said the sun would be out and in the 50's.....I don't see it...:D
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Those are NA pistons. That tit is supposed to help prevent detonation but I doubt it worked.
 
ROTFL... you should gimme 2 of those pistons.....:biggrin::biggrin: thats super funny...
 
Smookin the Buick

Well Guys I broke the engine down today...Found out that I have double dimple rods in it....:):) That's Strange...Isn't this just like GN stuff ?? Also My cam was a Bitch to get out...I actually had to hit the flange on the back side it get it out...I couldn't even turn it with my hands...Sprayed a ton of WD-40 and was able to at least get it out...Seems like maybe the thing was not cut right or something..Will have to let the machine shop check it out. The lifters were tough to get out to...they were kind of mushroomed over ....My lifter remover only helped a little...ended up using a Vise grip on them with a large screw driver behind it for some leverage and hit the Vise Grip with a hammer and walked them out that way... Now to just do a little bit of degrease so I don't curd up my truck when I take this stuff to the machine shop next week..
 
Smokin the Buick

I will have to check that out... I am putting in a new cam anyway with bearings...The crank and Main Bearings looked great. Any idea why those lifters got mushroomed on the bottom ?? The cam didn't look that bad on the lobes...
 
Either the lifters were soft or they didn't get oil Vince. Take a look at ZDDP additive to help keeping the cam alive. It works and it's cheaper than taking the engine apart again.
 
Mr. Upholsterer said:
Well Guys I broke the engine down today...Found out that I have double dimple rods in it....:):) That's Strange...Isn't this just like GN stuff ?? Also My cam was a Bitch to get out...I actually had to hit the flange on the back side it get it out...I couldn't even turn it with my hands...Sprayed a ton of WD-40 and was able to at least get it out...Seems like maybe the thing was not cut right or something..Will have to let the machine shop check it out. The lifters were tough to get out to...they were kind of mushroomed over ....My lifter remover only helped a little...ended up using a Vise grip on them with a large screw driver behind it for some leverage and hit the Vise Grip with a hammer and walked them out that way... Now to just do a little bit of degrease so I don't curd up my truck when I take this stuff to the machine shop next week..
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82 and up all engines had the 2 dot rods. Your exprerience taking this motor apart sounds just like mine. I myself don't buy into the "zddp+ is needed to keep your engine alive" My race car buddies have proved to me it's not needed. By the looks of your motor it has leaked quite a bit so I'm sure it's had plenty of low oil runs and lack of oil changes. Believe it or not, not everybody changes their oil every 3k and even if it's a performance car it still doesn't mean it was taken care of. Just my two cents
 
smokin the Buick

Just took the heads apart, Lots of caked up crap on those intakes. I see the valves are dished...cool... What kind of valve guide seals should I use ?? Also should I glass bead the head right where the valves seats are ??
 

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usetaboost said:
82 and up all engines had the 2 dot rods. Your exprerience taking this motor apart sounds just like mine. I myself don't buy into the "zddp+ is needed to keep your engine alive" My race car buddies have proved to me it's not needed. By the looks of your motor it has leaked quite a bit so I'm sure it's had plenty of low oil runs and lack of oil changes. Believe it or not, not everybody changes their oil every 3k and even if it's a performance car it still doesn't mean it was taken care of. Just my two cents
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Gonna argue with you Jesse. The guys around here are using flat tallet cams in the dirt cars and it's not unsual for the cam to go flat by the end of the season. This is on cars that don't even get 1K mileage on them during a season, so I consider it cheap insurance.:biggrin:

Mr. Upholsterer said:
Just took the heads apart, Lots of caked up crap on those intakes. I see the valves are dished...cool... What kind of valve guide seals should I use ?? Also should I glass bead the head right where the valves seats are ??
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Repalce the exhaust valves with a set from a TTA Vince. Then you can cut the guides for seal on the exhaust side. If you use the stock exhaust valves then it doesn't use seals on them. There's a groove on the exhaust valve stem just below the keeper which reduces the need for valve seals on the exhaust side but it limits the valve lift some what.
 
Smokin the Buick

Charlie... Its the intakes that were really caked up...the exhaust were fine..Valve guides seemed fine...held a vacuum when I pulled the valve out..
 
That's not why I sugested the TTA valves Vince. The newer valves will give you a better seal against oil going down the valve guides. The stock system doesn't use seals on the exhaust stems and if you don't have someone that knows how to set up the valves right then you'll end up burning oil out the exhaust.
 
I would strip down those heads and have them hot tanked. They do have a tendency to crack.
 
Charlie, I've experienced 2 flat cams. One was due to me never changing the oil because I had a built 350 TPI ready to go in my camaro. THe second was my 79 sport coupe. THAT was due to an A-hole not putting oil in the motor when it was drained, Still ran fine...then I blew a head gasket and over heated it
 
exhaust Valves

Charlie, On those TTA exhaust valves, how exactly do they stop the oil from running down them?? Some kind of a new metal or something...a built in O ring ?? Couldn't just putting on a Valve stem seal on the exhaust valve do the same thing...I'm going way back here but it seems that once when I had a Chevy motor done they just put in valve seals on all the valves...If I'm not mistaken they had to cut the bosses down a little and they were press on or something.
I think I will hot tank the heads before before glass beading them...I am afraid that some of the glass beads will get stuck in the grease in the ports.
Hopefully I can drop these parts off at the Machine Shop next week.:smile:
 
The stock exhaust valve stem isn't cut for a seal. The valves have a cut below the keeper groove and it is suposed to act like a pump and keeps excess oil out of the guide, or so the theory goes. The TTA valves don't have the step and you have to have the guides cut for seals but it works better.
 
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