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Translator Pro Speed density vs. Translator GenII vs Stock

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8ttype4

New Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
12
Ok I am in the midst of swapping an '87 IC engine into my '84 T-type, this is my situation, and I would appreciate your opinions...

First of all, I have no stock intake parts, so this will be a completely fresh setup. Also, I have a Power Logger (if that makes any difference).

The options:

1. Translator Pro with speed density setup, 4" pipe w/ 9" k&n filter.

2. Translator GenII w/ LS1 maf, 3.5" pipe w/ 9" k&n.

3. Any cheaper alternatives???

I've done a bit of research on these options, but I'm still a little hazy on the details. I know the Trans Pro requires a MAP sensor, but does it need a wide band O2 sensor as well? What else is required for this to work (ecu chip, etc)? And what is the purpose of a Wide band O2?

The Translator GenII obviously requires a LS1 MAF, and I see that those can be pretty expensive.


What setup would you go with based on an hp to $$$ ratio?
 
A simple and cheap way to run low 10's at 134+ is a genI translator and a 3.5 MAF and an Eric Marshal chip, lots of alky, 65 lb. injectors, big turbo and 252+ cid, TA heads.........Simple, but effective. Dennis Hogan ran 10.24 @134.8 on this combination. AFTER removing a bank to bank FAST system. Simple but it works. Super easy to install/tune, too.
 
With a new setup start with the easiest to get running correctly. meaning stock MAF and inj/chip that is matched. Once this runs 100%, then complicate yourself.

If you cant get a car working properly on stock stuff, it will never run right on aftermarket stuff.
 
Wouldn't a speed density TT chip and E-85 be cheaper than running a alky system?
 
With a new setup start with the easiest to get running correctly. meaning stock MAF and inj/chip that is matched. Once this runs 100%, then complicate yourself.

If you cant get a car working properly on stock stuff, it will never run right on aftermarket stuff.
X3 Don't get better said than that!
 
Wouldn't a speed density TT chip and E-85 be cheaper than running a alky system?
That wasn't the question that the OP had asked, and no mention what so ever about E85!

And if you ask me the answer is NO! E85 requires the following:
* 80lb or Larger injectors $400+
* Chip for E85 $75
* Fuel system upgrade ? $$$$ ??
 
To the OP...What are your goals? Street strip, street racer, racecar, etc?


If 11's


I say a stock MAF with one screen removed, alky and a TT chip. A translator can be thrown in the mix for a better flowing MAF if needed.
 
To the OP...What are your goals? Street strip, street racer, racecar, etc?


If 11's


I say a stock MAF with one screen removed, alky and a TT chip. A translator can be thrown in the mix for a better flowing MAF if needed.

My plan right now is just to get it running. I still need to install some more parts like fuel lines, brake hoses, wiring harness, oil & trans coolers/lines, and then the basics.

After this is all done, my goal would be to throw a posi on it and make it my weekend cruiser and street racer, and yes, 11's are definitely soon to follow if all goes well.


When you say "one screen removed", does that mean I should pull out the outer honeycomb shaped screen from the MAF? What is the best way to do this?
 
I went with the trans pro and some will think I’m crazy but I did it for 3 reasons. One I just didn’t want a MAF sensor any more I have one on the GN and my trans AM and it seems like all the 80s modle MAF sensors go bad all the time so I got rid of it . 2nd a MAF sensor is ugly and I’m not that fast so I wanted it to look nice. 3rd the pro can be used as a boost controller and cost wise its the same as buying one of the common boost controllers.
 
Typically there is 2 screens in the STOCK MAF unless someone has removed one already.

There is a plastic ring that hold them in pop out the ring and then the screen. Thats should leave another ring and teh final screen. Go from there
 
Thanks for the input, guys. Bought stock MAF yesterday.

Stock GM MAF for our cars has a BW sticker on the bottom. make sure yours has this.

Get it working on the stocker. Then complicate yourself. This way you have something to fall back on that "runs".

Whether you take the screens out or not, get all the drivability stuff handled first.

HTH
 
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