transmission oil cooler line options?

[Evans Ward]

Just put my rebuilt trans back in the car today and upon start up, I had a major leak which resulted in one of the original transmission hard lines being cracked/ split. In order to drive the car and see how the trans acts, I cut out that section of line and replaced it with rubber fuel line using double worm gear clamps at each end. I see Poston stocks the factory replacment hard lines as a set in either steel or stainless. How hard would it be to replace both of those pre-bent lines on the car with everything bolted up (motor/ trans)? What other options exist for a true plug and play sytem for both lines. I am using the stock trans cooler too. I read about compression flaring as a repair but that stuff is over my head. What would the appropriate repair be? BTW, the new rebuilt trans shift well! Thanks for any help here.

 

[whitecobra98]

i replaced the prebent lines a couple weeks ago because one of them rubbed through on the frame....it wasn't the easiest thing on the world but it definitely can be done....i had to undo both motor mounts and removed the starter to make things easier....install from back to front

 

[Evans Ward]

Thanks for the reply. I have the stainless set of prebent lines enroute from Poston. Will try to install without removal of motor mount and starter but will remove if I have too. Left the one good line on there so to use as a routing template and will probably leave that one on as it's intact with no leaks. Better half will help on this task as she visualizes things like this better and has more patience! Car will be up and running after this repair!

 

[whitecobra98]

don't bother frustrating yourself, just take the starter out....i did it on a lift and it still sucked...both lines look similar so leave them taped together when you put them in, put vacuum caps on the ends to keep the crap from getting into the lines when sliding them through, and be prepared to be frustrated...good luck

 

[Evans Ward]

I can pull the starter. I do have another question as I want to ensure that the fittings are hooked up correctly to the appropriate ports at the rad and trans. For the upper hard line port at trans, where (which one) should it connect at rad? Is there anyway to screw that up when connected with no leaks seen?

 

[whitecobra98]

I can pull the starter. I do have another question as I want to ensure that the fittings are hooked up correctly to the appropriate ports at the rad and trans. For the upper hard line port at trans, where (which one) should it connect at rad? Is there anyway to screw that up when connected with no leaks seen?

when you get the lines, you will see a slight difference in the two, thats why you should keep them taped together....hard to explain until you're looking at them under the car..there is definitely a front and back..you can only install them one way...b4 you take the other one off, look at the new ones so you see which way they go, and make sure you slide them in from the back to the front, and don't tighten the lines to the tranny until you're sure they are where they are supposed to be....don't ask how I know

 

[SSedan64]

Top port on trans is out to cooler, bottom port is in from cooler if that helps you any.

 

[Evans Ward]

Top port on trans is out to cooler, bottom port is in from cooler if that helps you any.

Thanks Dan! I did get my new stainless line set yesterday and it looks quality. Now, need to get this in so this car can be back in commision again!

 

[whitecobra98]

almost forgot EW....you have to take the crossover pipe off too...easy

 

[Evans Ward]

almost forgot EW....you have to take the crossover pipe off too...easy

Yep, had the X-over pipe off many times over the years. Def, an easy task. I always make sure the pipe centers and seats squarely on the down pieces so not to leak and also use the high temp copper RTV and allow a 24 hr cure time before starting. Never have any leaks with that method.

 

[Lee Thompson]

I believe

SS Sedan is correct. The top line @ trans is out--and goes to the top port on rad.

 

[sawmillman]

Not to hijack but is there any other options other than the stock lines?

 

[whitecobra98]

EW, did you get the car up and running yet? how much fun did you have putting the lines in?

 

[Evans Ward]

EW, did you get the car up and running yet? how much fun did you have putting the lines in?

Yes, got the lines in. I think I got lucky getting them in and didn't have to remove the starter. About 30 minutes total time for the lines. The Poston stainless lines are a good product with proper bends. Reinstalling the X-over was a challenge though as my two nuts on the top of the pass exhaust header are missing (have been for some time). I have been using floating nuts on top of studs there so you can imagine the fun! Next time that pass header is off, I will get a friend to weld on some grade 8 nuts I have.

I do have other issues on "the endless money pit" right now though.... :frown:

 

[SSedan64]

Not to hijack but is there any other options other than the stock lines?

You could run braided w/AN fittings etc..

 

[SSedan64]

EW, how's the trans working?

 

[whitecobra98]

Yes, got the lines in. I think I got lucky getting them in and didn't have to remove the starter. About 30 minutes total time for the lines. The Poston stainless lines are a good product with proper bends. Reinstalling the X-over was a challenge though as my two nuts on the top of the pass exhaust header are missing (have been for some time). I have been using floating nuts on top of studs there so you can imagine the fun! Next time that pass header is off, I will get a friend to weld on some grade 8 nuts I have.

I do have other issues on "the endless money pit" right now though.... :frown:

it wouldn't be a real TR if they didn't have a vaccum port hooked up directly to your wallet glad to hear u had no problems getting the lines in

 

[Evans Ward]

EW, how's the trans working?

Trans is great! Builder beefed this one up on most recent build. My forward drum band was letting go on the last unit. Only got about 200 miles on the rebuild in the car now before the latest problem came up which isn't trans related. Learned one thing this time on the trans re: TV cable tension. I had been setting mine to the factory GN spec procedure which wasn't tight enough and contributed to lower line pressures and probably lower life issues. I'm happy with the shifts on this one at present.

 

[Evans Ward]

it wouldn't be a real TR if they didn't have a vaccum port hooked up directly to your wallet glad to hear u had no problems getting the lines in

Ain't that the truth!!!! Boost is such a strong drug with highly addictive tendencies. My support group here would not help since we're all in the same sinking, money emptying boat!

 

[84buickregal]

lol i was just about to start a new thread and then i found this one alll ready existed