gethighracewear
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TTA wont start when hot
- Thread starter gethighracewear
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Street Lethal
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You stated that it is giving off weak spark when the engine is hot, as well as the injectors not being pulsed until it cools back down. I agree with Nick Micale, it sounds like an overheating Ignition Module...
gethighracewear
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Tried the heat gun, didn't get any results. Even after I ran the car till it warmed up and got to a not fire condition I felt the module under the coil pack and it was just a little warm. Defiantly not hot. I also tried to preheat the cam position sensor while the engine was cold but it still started. Maybe I couldn't get it hot enough. After I ran the car and shut it off to the point where it won't refire I felt the cam position sensor. The plastic cap is just slightly warm but just below it at the base where the actual metal part of it is was quite hot. What exactly does the cam sensor do? Doesn't it affect start up? Its weird that when the engine is hot, that it has no problem staying running, but as soon as its turned off it will not restart till cooled off. I hate to keep buying parts without knowing for sure. I bought a crank sensor yesterday and did not solve the problem. A new cam position sensor is quite expensive but I did find an aftermarket Tomco sensor cap for about $40 online.
gethighracewear
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I tr
I tried adjusting the fuel pressure up and down when the engine was hot and wouldn't start. Made no difference. Still wouldn't start.
gethighracewear
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I really didn't want to have someone loan me a part but I'm getting frustrated trying to solve this. I just searched thru all of my old parts and cant find my original coil and module. I had replaced them just as a preventive maintenance because the car was getting close to 20 years old at the time, but must have thrown the old ones away. What do you need me to do to borrow yours? I can PayPal you upfront for your shipping cost. Let me know and thanks again for all the help.
2 pages an still hasn't done this !! Lead a horse to water but ya can't make em drink !
gethighracewear
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I searched and found that thread. Basically to do what he did I would need to buy an injector harness with a hot wire kit. A few posts back someone had me check the voltages at the injectors and I was under the assumption I had enough volts that my harness is okay.
Just my .02 again. Your symptoms agree with mine except my cel came on while driving. Others have had the same symptom and the consencous is to change the module. So if you take Nick up on his offer you will be out $20 shipping round trip. I would apply that $20 towards a new module. Worst thing that can happen is the new module won't fix it and you will have a spare module (and be out $120). I carry a spare of most every sensor in the trunk along with a coil pack/module assembly and an ecu. I also carry the tools needed to change them. Better safe than sorry, right? My last word of advice is to buy ac delco when possible. Usually Rock Auto has best prices, and sometimes the local parts store matches them in price. Good luck and let us know the outcome.
Gary Durden
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I was thinking the same thing. Aftermarket coil and ignition module?
gethighracewear
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I think I'm gonna get a module from local auto parts store today. My mechanic friend ordered it in his name and said that they will allow him to return electrical purchases. So I can just return it if it doesn't cure the issue. I'll post results if it works or not tonight. Thanks.
Gary Durden
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Is it an AC Delco?
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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Yup. Al went bananas for months trying to figure this issue out. Replaced everything we could think of with known good parts, same results. Only thing that permanently cured it was the hotwired harness. If I owned a TTA that would be one of the first items I'd do.
gethighracewear
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I think the one on my car now is an AC Delco. I bought it from Johns Performance 10 years or so ago. The one I'm gonna get from the local auto parts store will most likely be an aftermarket.
gethighracewear
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Well, the latest is, I got an aftermarket replacement module this evening. Reinstalled the coil pack and mounting bracket. Mounted it back on engine. Went to hook up the electrical connector and it wouldn't fit. Same amount of pin connectors but has different ridges not allowing it to fit together. Part number given to me was CBE107P but I need a CBE100P. They are suspossed to have the right part for me tomorrow.
gethighracewear
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Installed a new ignition module today. No change. Still won't start when hot. But..........
I made a break thru today. Tried unplugging coolant sensor and now car will start hot if it's unplugged. How important is it that I use it? Can I just leave one in the block and get a second one and plug in that's not in the block? I know back in the 90's I did that on a 5.0 in my mustang gt. Or does knowing that help to explain what's causing the no hot start issue? And a possible solution so I can keep the coolant sensor plugged into the block as it should be.
I made a break thru today. Tried unplugging coolant sensor and now car will start hot if it's unplugged. How important is it that I use it? Can I just leave one in the block and get a second one and plug in that's not in the block? I know back in the 90's I did that on a 5.0 in my mustang gt. Or does knowing that help to explain what's causing the no hot start issue? And a possible solution so I can keep the coolant sensor plugged into the block as it should be.
mikestertwo
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Coolant sensor is very important. It controls fueling, timing, converter lockup. Get it changed out. You can't leave it hanging outside the motor. Get a new one screwed into the intake.
Street Lethal
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What made you pull the CTS on a whim like that to see if it was that? Normally you would see an error code of 14 or 15 when it is CTS related. Either way, if that is what it was then good find...
gethighracewear
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I don't believe the coolant temp sensor is the problem. I decided to keep it in the block and hooked up. What I'm in the process of doing is wiring in a toggle switch on one of the wires that connect to the sensor. I already tried it and it works. I just flip the switch disabling the coolant sensor to trick the engine into thinking it's starting cold and then reflip the switch as soon as it starts so the coolant temp switch is operational. I know I haven't solved the initial problem but I have come up with a soulotion for now that will enable me to drive the car without getting stranded.
mikestertwo
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Why don't you think the coolant sensor is the problem? Do you have any data? Scan Master? Powerlogger?
No disintegrations
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the coolant sensor makes sense. When the engine is off the ecm only uses a few data points to get it running. Coolant temp, rpm, cam sensor and not much else is used until it starts.
