Tuning Basics

[Pronto]

My only concern is that Eric said it was specifically programmed for a stock car with only 60# injectors. Seems like that doesn’t match what’s on the car. Boost gauge is reading closer to 20lbs. ScanMaster O2 in the 750-850 range with 1-3 degrees of knock if you punch it.

Did you fill it with 93 or is that with the shit they left in it? Wouldn't doubt it if it's 87 in it.

 

[CarolinaNational]

Did you fill it with 93 or is that with the shit they left in it? Wouldn't doubt it if it's 87 in it.

Good point. I topped it off. It was less than half full already, but didn’t want to run it all the way down to E before filling up. I’ll keep an eye on it till I can get a good full tank of 93.

 

[CarolinaNational]

lol. Asks for advice, doesn't take any of it.

I heed advice, just made a couple pulls to see what the readings are. Thanks for your constructive feed back though.

 

[Pronto]

Drive it around without boost so you can familiarize yourself with it and use up the fuel. Try a fresh tank of 93 and lower the boost.

 

[Mr.Spool]

O2 in the 750-850 range with 1-3 degrees of knock

this is no good.the 02 range is spot on but it knocks thats where the octane is needed and whats happens when higher intake charge temps and cylinder pressure are happening with not enough octane

 

[Mr.Spool]

Boost gauge is reading closer to 20lbs.

please drop it down or introduce octane,it will only knock for so long then you will be turning wrenches on it or opening the wallet.

 

[CarolinaNational]

I’ve already turned the boost down. Not trying to beat on the car without having it fine tuned and checked out.

 

[Pronto]

I would go though the whole engine compartment looking at all the rubber lines for cracking and brittleness. Replace the sparkplugs with NGK UR5s at .028, ohm the sparkplug wires for any bad ones, change the oil, inspect the radiator and coolant, check for exhaust leaks and oil leaks, just for starters. Do the work yourself so you will start to get familiar with you car. After that, when you have a tank of good 93 in it you can see if it knocks at 10. If it does at 10 start looking for something hitting or if it's wheel spin. Slow and methodical will get you there.

 

[berserker6]

And change the oil if you havent already. I like valvoline VR1. You decide the weight. The reason I suggest this is I always have a fear/paranoia that a rod starts to knock for the previous owner and he throws in 75w90 diff fluid to quiet it up just long enuf. I think if the time comes when I buy another one I'm changing the oil right then and there before the purchase.

 

[CarolinaNational]

So just to update an old thread for anyone who was curious. After continuing to educate myself on the car and tuning, I believe I found the issue. When I emailed Eric (TT) when I got the car to investigate the chip, he said it was probably too lean if there were any mods other than simply 60# injectors. The more I look, I believe this car has basically every bolt on that could be done without getting into the motor.

At first, I didn’t think that was an issue as it smelled super rich. As I continued to figure out how to properly set up the car by adjusting TPS and IAC, it didn’t seem to smell rich anymore, but still with high BLM in the 142 range. Assuming it was a vacuum link I checked all lines, exchanged the PCV, adjusted fuel pressure, etc. with boost down to 16# there were still knock issues.

I believe the car was too lean all along, which would explain why BLM were high with open loop at idle, but under WOT, in closed loop, the car couldn’t adjust on the go. I added about 15% fuel with the ScanMaster, and it seemed to resolve all knock issues.

Just looking for feedback as to if my thought process is correct as I’m trying to educate myself as much as possible. More importantly, converted to E85 today and everything seems spot on with a chip appropriately burned for the car.