Tuning the Alkycontrol kit

I have a TT 5.6 and was wanting to get the recommended tuning for the scan master Running Alky with 60lb injectors. Timing on the chip is 23/21. Noticed on the scan master you can only get 9 degrees
 
I have a TT 5.6 and was wanting to get the recommended tuning for the scan master Running Alky with 60lb injectors. Timing on the chip is 23/21. Noticed on the scan master you can only get 9 degrees
9 degree's?
Timing is to be monitored at WOT. So the 23/21 is timing un at WOT not driving around. Get a power logger and you'll be able to see actual timing at the moment its happening.
 
have any of you tried putting a small nozzel in front of the turbo ? i did try but i never had much benefit from alky but i didn't tune specifically for it, i was afraid of tunning out or having the pump not work all of a sudden when it needs it most. i thought about adding a pressure switch that would do a table switch but never got around to it and my boost cooler pump died so that was the end of that.
 
have any of you tried putting a small nozzel in front of the turbo ? i did try but i never had much benefit from alky but i didn't tune specifically for it, i was afraid of tunning out or having the pump not work all of a sudden when it needs it most. i thought about adding a pressure switch that would do a table switch but never got around to it and my boost cooler pump died so that was the end of that.

I am going to be doing this in the next week or so, My recommended nozzle size is a 15, i will be adding a #5 probably onto the turbo's outlet before the IC and a #10 in the traditional location on the up pipe before the TB. mainly doing this to reduce heat soak of the OE location IC and at the same time not adding any extra ALKY .
 
i dunno about putting one in front of the inter cooler ,, it would just condense to the inter cooler and become droplets being thrown into the engine,
 
BLM is 42, working on fixing a crack in header. Now, I can run 16 lbs boost all day with no issue. When I change a parameter and it runs in closed loop for first few starts/runs, I can run 22 lbs with no issue, very smooth.

Is the cracked header my only issue. Any help would be appreciated.

te44 turbo
Alky kit
Scanmaster
60lb inj
TT Chip
Ext wastegate 10 lb spring
 
Can it be too much alky, causing a flooding effect?
 
Get the BLM down. 142 means the computer is adding fuel to compensate for a lean condition. once BL is down.. then work on tuning.
 
I have had weak spark @ 4800 rpm and above, all the ignition parts are new and tested. Higher voltage apears to be a possible solution.
 
I have had weak spark @ 4800 rpm and above, all the ignition parts are new and tested. Higher voltage apears to be a possible solution.
A majority of us have no issue with the ignition system without using a VB. There are plenty of 8 and 9 second cars on factory ignition modules without a VB.

Now one thing for sure that I would do is get the hot-wire kit for the ignition . So power from the alternator goes directly to the module. This and confirm voltage from your alternator stays up above 13v at WOT. Alternators when they start going bad will drop off.. then you try and fix it by adding a VB when simply the alternator is the issue.

HTH
 
I have 2 alternators both fresh and tested one is 140 amp the other is 160 amp. I was going to install the CCCI hot wire but the TPS activated VB looked like a better way to go? Are you against the VB?
 
Put a voltmeter on the main power to the CCCI module and watch what it does when it breaks up. make sure it stays up..
I had a customer powder coated his brackets and self induced the drama. So watch out for the simple stuff getting you.
 
Ive had great luck adding a ground to one of the studs that stick through the plate the module is connected to
 
Is this the most current info, or are there any updates to add to this thread?? Thanks!!
 
Top