Tuning with alky. Part100 lol

[TurboJames]

hey guys, having some tuning issues here.
I have a 4.1 block
Summit pistons,
Polished crank and weights
Ported polished stock heads
50# delphi injectors
Eastern FMIC
6465dual BB turbonetics
18-30#HD wastegate with manual boost controller.
Razors alky kit, and adj fuel reg
I went to the track for the first time last weekend.
Ran 12.31 @113 2.0 60ft. .2 reaction. 13# in the 10.5" slicks
Stock converter limits the amount of boost i can hold at the line- none LOL
Anyway, so the alky level is at 6 and the boost is at 24#. I notice my AFR is always at 10.0 under wOT. And my scanmaster was at 800s. So i start taking out small increments of 2% until i end up at 10. Scanmaster goes to 770-780s and the afr at 10.0. Which should i tune by? Any tips?

 

[slimtastic]

I Always tune by the wideband and the look of the plugs.... For beginners sake, get your afr number to around 10.7 ish and from there adjust up or down to see what gets the most mph...

Keep the hell away from any knock and abort the run if your getting more than "trans shift noise"

 

[TurboJames]

Yes, i understand it has to be leaner.. But should i just keep taking more and more fuel out? I was at -10%, that seems like alot already no?

 

[slimtastic]

Well you have to go by the afr gauge in your instance... And pull a plug at the end of the run to verify that your super rich. For the sake of keeping safe octane, probably leave the alky where it's at and pull fuel.

Not sure what you have for a chip in the car but most are setup for be rich and safe, and let the end user pull fuel back out

 

[Mr.Spool]

In the alky section there is a sticky on tuning the alky control kit read up.the car isn't using the fuel at 10.0/24 psi wot and 113 mph. things are way off but I would look at the plugs and look at the 1/8 mph and 1/4 gains.

 

[TurboJames]

Yeah i have razors tuning methods. But thanks for your input! I appreciate it all!

 

[Pronto]

You NEED a converter!

 

[TurboJames]

I know...i have a old 3600 coan but my old tranny clutch packs let go and the fluid went through it. Im here in canada so the exchange rates are brutal right now. Im thinking a 3200 10" non l u. What you guys think?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

A street car...Why the N/L??

 

[TurboJames]

Not sure! Thats what i was told to get.... What would be the best to do xoming from everyone? A lock up?

 

[Pronto]

I have no complaints with my nl. I do mostly local driving an an occasional pass at the track. See sig.

 

[V6sleeper]

You NEED a converter!

x2...nowhere near enough converter for that turbo..

 

[V6sleeper]

Next would be a built trans if your gonna continue to make passes at the track.

 

[haywire4130]

Thats a horrendous 60' (which is entirely due to the converter) im surprised youre rich up top with 50lb injectors, what rpms are you turning on the big end and what are you running your fuel pressure at? Im completely maxed out on my 60lb injectors and the alky knob all the way up on a single nozzle with the same turbo. You definately should check your plugs to confirm the wideband readings before trimming much more fuel.

 

[robzombie]

Not sure! Thats what i was told to get.... What would be the best to do xoming from everyone? A lock up?

Just because someone tells you to get something that they like doesn't mean it's the right choice for you. A street car that's driven to the track maybe a couple times a year doesn't need a NL converter.

Converter technology has advanced to the point that the difference is minimal performance wise and the LU can actually be quicker at the track up to a certain HP level.

I run low tens in the 1/4 with a LU converter. A good LU can get you a better ET/mph than a NL because you can run it locked from second gear on up giving you no slip which even the best NL can never do.

If it was a race car that only sees the track and ran in the nines or faster than a NL would be the way to go. NL converters run hotter and require big and or fan cooled coolers to keep the heat under control on the street.

If your car is a street car that goes to the track than get a quality LU in the 3/3200 stall range that will match the combo you have and get a W/B like others have suggested.

Ultimately though the choice is yours to get what you want or think will fit your needs best. Just do your homework and get the right converter the first time. Don't buy into the hype that buying a NL is always better the a LU. Be truthful about the power you make instead of what you think it makes or trying to impress others by over estimating it.

Getting it right makes the car faster as you already know. The combo you have posted screams for a new converter and now you just need to get what's best for YOU not someone else.

Dave Husek or Lonnie Diers sell a quality LU if that is the route you decide to go or you can get a NL from Dusty or Lonnie if you race it more than you street drive it but with your combo a good LU is all you really should need because the power level you're at doesn't warrant a NL in my opinion.

 

[Qwkspool]

What kind of chip is it and what is it burned for? When I had a 5.7 chip for my stock turbo and no alky, when I added the alky my wideband was reading 10.0 and I kept taking away fuel. I had to take out over 10 % to start seeing any change to the 10.0. You could always add boost too! Like everyone said, just stay out of knock. When my wideband was reading 10.0 , I'm not sure how low it was but there wasn't any black smoke and still ran fairly well. But I started picking up more and more power when I got the afr close to where I wanted it.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

Is 10.0 as low as your wideband will read?
As far as converter, a 10" 3200 stall will suck. It will never couple, assuming this a a fwd core. At a high 10 sec power level, it will flash to 5500 or higher. A converter that you lock in 2nd gear will drag the rpms down, amd not be as quick as good converter that allows a 400 to 600 rpm range, keeping the engine in the sweet spot. A lock up might have more mph, but it wont et as quick.