My preferred way to react to the lights at the tree usually gets me a redlight by .02 to .04 seconds. I have a fairly small tire on the front now, if I go with a slightly larger tire that should effectively slow my vehicle reaction time due to the roll out, correct? Is there a way to calculate at least a theoretical difference in the car's reaction time with a different front tire size?
"Tuning" your reaction time
- Thread starter tonka
- Start date
Generally I do stage really shallow, just edge into the stage beam and hold. If my reaction times are sluggish on a particular day for some reason then I will stage a little deeper. Track just upgraded to a new timing system, and with it there is now LED lights on the tree. Since the change my reaction is just a bit too quick, had a -.033 reaction in time trials Sunday, and lost out 3rd round with a -.022. BTW, this is a footbrake car, so don't have any options with transbrake delay buttons. They don't run pro tree here for some reason, exept on a street car event.
Changes in front tire pressure will change rollout, too. More air quicker - less air slower. My track - Gateway in St. Louis has free bracket racing school in the summer once a month. One of the class you get to bring your car and practice staging and 60 foots. The teacher with over 100 bracket racing wins gave us the tip about air pressure.
Craig
Craig
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Your biggest drawback is no trans brake.
It is extremely difficult to be consistent w/o a transbrake. You just need to practice with either method. Forget about messing with tire pressure, or size, just use what you have.
You cannot be changing stuff and learning at the same time.
In my case I have a T/B, 2 step and boost controller and have been dialing in for a few years. Last trip to the track I pulled a .0003 reaction time!
This was no "fluke", as I also had .003, .054, .059 and a .063, all these on a full tree. On the pro tree I had .06 and .09.
At the track, I set tire pressure once, and not mess with it again. The hood is only opened for cool down and inspection.
Point is, you must get your car to the point where you want it, and then you and the car have to spend time together to REALLY know each other.
Nick, I know what you mean about the T brake, but I've gotten pretty used to used to the footbrake, don't know how well I'd do trying to switch over. At that point I'd probably be tempted to put a box in it, thing is the only class here that allows the box requires 6.50 or quicker dial-in. I'll work closer to that next year maybe.
I've been getting similar reaction times off the footbrake, .005 and .007 being my best, usually .040s & .050s. I run the AMS 500 for launch & boost control, keeps my 60 fts very uniform. I've just been looking for tricks to either make those .040s & .050s a little bit quicker, or slow down the -.020s & -.030s.
I've been getting similar reaction times off the footbrake, .005 and .007 being my best, usually .040s & .050s. I run the AMS 500 for launch & boost control, keeps my 60 fts very uniform. I've just been looking for tricks to either make those .040s & .050s a little bit quicker, or slow down the -.020s & -.030s.
