Turbo 400

[BadAssGN]

I see we have some Transmission Experts on here,

I am looking at building a TH400 during the winter, I want to know if I have to use a reverse manual Valve body when using a transbrake or can I have a normal shifting tranny (wife drives the car)

I also want to know what mods are a must for a (at the most) mid 10 car


I don't drive on the highway and I don't race a whole lot.

and I certainly do not want to spend over $2k on a 200r4 to make it live.


Thanks in advance

 

[jakeshoe]

Good quality rebuild using Hi Energy clutches in the directs and intermediates. Stock steels.
Upgrade to 4 clutch intermediate setup.
Torrington bearing in the rear, I also put them at the fwd hub.
Good pump clearances (see good quality rebuild )
Dual feed the direct clutches.
1-2 shift valve modification to hold low.
Eliminate 3rd gear cutback by modding modulator valve.
Drill feed holes to .125 for 2nd feed, .140 for 3rd. Block 2-3 accumulator is optional, I do so on 10 second cars.
34 element sprag and drum.
Deep pan setup, brass screened filter.

It will live for seasons (2-3 years, every weekend) at a time in the bottom 10s as long as you do burnouts properly.

 

[chris718]

Jake thanks for the referral from Michigan.I owe you one.

 

[jakeshoe]

Chris,
I refer people to you all the time, so I dunno even remember who it was

I'll package up your cases tomorrow, I have a perfect container for it I think.

I'm arse deep in the AOD I did for my Dad awhile back. That Lentech VB hits 2nd WAY too hard at WOT. The car would wheelhop going into 2nd at above 3/4 throttle.

I went to go pick it up yesterday to bring to the shop to diagnose a 2nd gear start (just like a 200 with too much TV but TV doesn't fix it) and install a new exhaust.
My wife was trying to play in her Trailblazer SS, so I was going to school her on the entrance ramp.

She got to stop and pick up the pieces while I was trying to shut it down with no brakes (see the brake line)

 

[turbobitt]

Chris,
I refer people to you all the time, so I dunno even remember who it was

I'll package up your cases tomorrow, I have a perfect container for it I think.

I'm arse deep in the AOD I did for my Dad awhile back. That Lentech VB hits 2nd WAY too hard at WOT. The car would wheelhop going into 2nd at above 3/4 throttle.

I went to go pick it up yesterday to bring to the shop to diagnose a 2nd gear start (just like a 200 with too much TV but TV doesn't fix it) and install a new exhaust.
My wife was trying to play in her Trailblazer SS, so I was going to school her on the entrance ramp.

She got to stop and pick up the pieces while I was trying to shut it down with no brakes (see the brake line)

Speeking of AOD, Who offers a good rebuild kit for these including servos and any other upgrades they may need ? I have to do one for a friends '93 mustang.

 

[jakeshoe]

'93 would be an AOD-E I believe.

I can hook you up with a kit and any parts you need.

Good thing about the AOD-E is it should already have the stamped drums and correct sun shell to install the 4R70 diode element.

Upgrade to the 4R70W intermediate clutch setup, etc.

I have a handful of AOD "A" servos also, which are the desirable ones but you don't need them with an AODE.

 

[turbobitt]

'93 would be an AOD-E I believe.

I can hook you up with a kit and any parts you need.

Good thing about the AOD-E is it should already have the stamped drums and correct sun shell to install the 4R70 diode element.

Upgrade to the 4R70W intermediate clutch setup, etc.

I have a handful of AOD "A" servos also, which are the desirable ones but you don't need them with an AODE.

I did some research and the AODE wasn't installed in the Mustang until 1994 with the new bodystyle. I could be wrong..

I was looking at the Master kit with alto cluches and powerpacks but wasn't sure on the band. Some transmissions don't like the powerpacks due to the clutches are to thin and can't take any heat. I'm sure there is some knowlege base with do's and don'ts.
.

 

[BadAssGN]

Good quality rebuild using Hi Energy clutches in the directs and intermediates. Stock steels.
Upgrade to 4 clutch intermediate setup.
Torrington bearing in the rear, I also put them at the fwd hub.
Good pump clearances (see good quality rebuild )
Dual feed the direct clutches.
1-2 shift valve modification to hold low.
Eliminate 3rd gear cutback by modding modulator valve.
Drill feed holes to .125 for 2nd feed, .140 for 3rd. Block 2-3 accumulator is optional, I do so on 10 second cars.
34 element sprag and drum.
Deep pan setup, brass screened filter.

It will live for seasons (2-3 years, every weekend) at a time in the bottom 10s as long as you do burnouts properly.

Great Tips, Thanks. The smaller feed holes re to keep convertor pressures under control?

Nevermind I just re read that...

 

[jakeshoe]

I did some research and the AODE wasn't installed in the Mustang until 1994 with the new bodystyle. I could be wrong..

I was looking at the Master kit with alto cluches and powerpacks but wasn't sure on the band. Some transmissions don't like the powerpacks due to the clutches are to thin and can't take any heat. I'm sure there is some knowlege base with do's and don'ts.
.

The direct pack is the only pack that really needs any help. It is very similar to a 200-4R. I installed Alto reds in this pack with stock steels and added a friction.

The intermediates you use the stock 4R70W parts, pressure plate, good OEM style clutches (Hi-Energy).

Also use the Alto Red band for the 4R70W, but you have to use the later model drum, so you might as well upgrade to the diode sprag drum.

 

[Cheeseburger]

I also want to know what mods are a must for a (at the most) mid 10 car

Why would you want to lose your o/d and install a turbo400 when you don't need one at your performance level?

 

[norbs]

You will have to use a diesel modulator that is cable operated your stock tv cable will fit. I have a spare one here I will seel if you need. The 400 is heavy and will eat your thrust bearings if not careful. DO the pump mods and make sure you don;t have over 40 psi in the cooler lines hot and you should be ok.

 

[BadAssGN]

Why would you want to lose your o/d and install a turbo400 when you don't need one at your performance level?

The Last 200r4 was $1500 and it didn't live.

I can build a 400 for half that.

 

[BadAssGN]

The Last 200r4 was $1500 and it didn't live.

I can build a 400 for half that.

got a BOP TH400 core for $40 on a local by and sell :biggrin:

 

[KWIKR 1]

A) Alto Reds w/Kolene Steels includes Alto Red Direct Power Pak 2) Alto Red HP OS Direct Band 3) rear output shaft roller bearing 4) Hardened Intermediate shaft 5) Intermediate HD direct Drum w/upgraded HD 34 sprag and race 6) Boost Valve Kit 5) Torrington Thrust Bearing Kit 6) Case Saver Kit 7) HD Center Support 8) AISI 1045 Steel Forward Clutch Hub 8) Hardened Stator 9) HD Output Shaft 10) Reverse Manual RedNeck Transbrake 11) TCI Deep Cast Alum Pan (2 extra quart capacity) 12) Rebuild front pump restrictor installed 13) Teflon ring Sealing Kit 14) Custom build West Coast Street/Strip 10" Converter (3400-3500 rpm stall) .

The best guy to rebuild these TH400 in the GTA is TDS Transmission Speciallist Inc out of Newmarket . Ask for John Sr . When you drop in to 5 trans shops for quotes . and 4 out of the 5 tell you " go see John at TDS in Newmarket he's the guy you want building your TH400" . You get John at TDS to build your Th400 .

total cost for TH400 swap in the $2300- $2500 range. that includes fully rebuild trans with brake, new converter and custom HD drive shaft and loop .


The reverse manual valve body is alot of fun to drive on the street . My wife likes it better than the 200r4 .

 

[BadAssGN]

Thanks for the info Tim, Apart from the New convertor expense I think I can do this a little cheaper.

I don't need to upgrade everything you did. I'm not that fast

A) Alto Reds w/Kolene Steels includes Alto Red Direct Power Pak 2) Alto Red HP OS Direct Band 3) rear output shaft roller bearing 4) Hardened Intermediate shaft 5) Intermediate HD direct Drum w/upgraded HD 34 sprag and race 6) Boost Valve Kit 5) Torrington Thrust Bearing Kit 6) Case Saver Kit 7) HD Center Support 8) AISI 1045 Steel Forward Clutch Hub 8) Hardened Stator 9) HD Output Shaft 10) Reverse Manual RedNeck Transbrake 11) TCI Deep Cast Alum Pan (2 extra quart capacity) 12) Rebuild front pump restrictor installed 13) Teflon ring Sealing Kit 14) Custom build West Coast Street/Strip 10" Converter (3400-3500 rpm stall) .

The best guy to rebuild these TH400 in the GTA is TDS Transmission Speciallist Inc out of Newmarket . Ask for John Sr . When you drop in to 5 trans shops for quotes . and 4 out of the 5 tell you " go see John at TDS in Newmarket he's the guy you want building your TH400" . You get John at TDS to build your Th400 .

total cost for TH400 swap in the $2300- $2500 range. that includes fully rebuild trans with brake, new converter and custom HD drive shaft and loop .


The reverse manual valve body is alot of fun to drive on the street . My wife likes it better than the 200r4 .

 

[Cheeseburger]

The Last 200r4 was $1500 and it didn't live.

I can build a 400 for half that.

Maybe you should look into another builder then, my 200R4 got me in the 134mph+ range in the 1/4 and never skipped a beat, oh it was in the car for over 10 years with 2 freshens too!
Goodluck on your $750.00 turbo 400.

 

[BadAssGN]

Maybe you should look into another builder then, my 200R4 got me in the 134mph+ range in the 1/4 and never skipped a beat, oh it was in the car for over 10 years with 2 freshens too!
Goodluck on your $750.00 turbo 400.

Any idea what you had inside it for mods? any hard parts?

How many 134 mph passes?

I know who you use and I used the other guy



The 200 I have is supposed to be a 10 second trans, Might just need a Freshen also. Flaring into 3rd real bad and slips with anything over 19 psi.


There is alway a chance of breaking the thing leaving on the transbrake even if I freshen it.

I figure going to a much stronger TH400 would give me room to get faster
when I free up the funds for more parts down the road. and piece of mind now, knowing I can leave hard and not break it.

I don't want to go Cheeseburger fast but low 10s high 9s maybe...

 

[KWIKR 1]

Thanks for the info Tim, Apart from the New convertor expense I think I can do this a little cheaper.

I don't need to upgrade everything you did. I'm not that fast

I know it was little over kill . I'm not that fast either .

 

[KWIKR 1]

It will live for seasons (2-3 years, every weekend) at a time in the bottom 10s as long as you do burnouts properly.

and what is the proper preceder for a burnout with a TH400 ? I start off in 2nd , and come out of the burnout/water box on the 2-3 shift .

 

[Gregaust]

Good quality rebuild using Hi Energy clutches in the directs and intermediates. Stock steels.
Upgrade to 4 clutch intermediate setup.
Torrington bearing in the rear, I also put them at the fwd hub.
Good pump clearances (see good quality rebuild )
Dual feed the direct clutches.
1-2 shift valve modification to hold low.
Eliminate 3rd gear cutback by modding modulator valve.
Drill feed holes to .125 for 2nd feed, .140 for 3rd. Block 2-3 accumulator is optional, I do so on 10 second cars.
34 element sprag and drum.
Deep pan setup, brass screened filter.

It will live for seasons (2-3 years, every weekend) at a time in the bottom 10s as long as you do burnouts properly.

Jake ,can you shed any light on the 3rd gear cutback mod? A recent 400 i rebuilt the pressure would drop off when shifting to 3rd . It is dual fed though,so far has been working fine . This was an auto shift valvebody built by a local guy .Would like to see the pressure stay up in 3rd if this mod help ..Thanks for any tips ..