turbo install
- Thread starter DIAZ 87
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Start soaking the nuts, bolts, studs that go from the passenger header to the turbine and the down pipe NOW. Ever so slightly tighten them then loosen. This will break all the rust loose. When I say ever so slightly, I mean like less than a 16th of an inch.
The hardest part (for me anyways) was the oil return line on the bottom of the center cartridge. Once you get it free of the intercooler, oil lines, down pipe, and maf pipe it's pretty easy. a 1 hour job with the right tools.
If the turbo nozzle doesn't line up when installed, you can loosen the bolts or band on the compressor housing and "clock it" to the correct position.
The bracket that holds the turbo to the block is real easy.
The hardest part (for me anyways) was the oil return line on the bottom of the center cartridge. Once you get it free of the intercooler, oil lines, down pipe, and maf pipe it's pretty easy. a 1 hour job with the right tools.
If the turbo nozzle doesn't line up when installed, you can loosen the bolts or band on the compressor housing and "clock it" to the correct position.
The bracket that holds the turbo to the block is real easy.
Having just pulled and reinstalled mine this evening, it's fresh in my mind.. 
Good suggestion above, get some PB Blaster for those nuts if it's original, especially. It's not too bad of a job if you don't run into frozen nuts. Something that also seems to always happen to me is that the studs rotate out of the turbo before the nuts want to come off. Don't worry about it if that happens, just keep on wrenchin'. The turbo oil drain can be a PIA when you are reinstalling. Can be tough to line up and get the bolts started. PATIENCE! You'll get it. Make sure to take note of the routing of the vacuum lines before you go ripping things apart. If you've got a digital camera, it's always not a bad idea to take some pics along the way during your removal. One other note, be sure to remember to reconnect your ground cable when mounting the turbo bracket back to the block.
If you are a novice, I would expect about an hour to take it apart, and and hour and a half to put it back, barring roadblocks. Good luck!
Good suggestion above, get some PB Blaster for those nuts if it's original, especially. It's not too bad of a job if you don't run into frozen nuts. Something that also seems to always happen to me is that the studs rotate out of the turbo before the nuts want to come off. Don't worry about it if that happens, just keep on wrenchin'. The turbo oil drain can be a PIA when you are reinstalling. Can be tough to line up and get the bolts started. PATIENCE! You'll get it. Make sure to take note of the routing of the vacuum lines before you go ripping things apart. If you've got a digital camera, it's always not a bad idea to take some pics along the way during your removal. One other note, be sure to remember to reconnect your ground cable when mounting the turbo bracket back to the block.
If you are a novice, I would expect about an hour to take it apart, and and hour and a half to put it back, barring roadblocks. Good luck!
Thanks guys for the information, will be ordering a t49 turbo very soon.My gn only has 36,000 plus miles on it and is very much stock just 2 1/2 hooker exhuast,tt chip,k&n filter and couple of other small upgrades.Only replacing it due to turbo leaking oil and smoking a little.
Ahhh, the fun has just begun. That's how mine started. Turbo went out, so I upgraded it...didn't like how it spooled now so I changed the converter...plus I needed to upgrade the injectors and fuel pump....OH, you can run more boost?...What's this "alky" that people are alking about....LOL! It's a sickness!!!!!!
Reinstall oil drain
One way to make it easier is get the right size studs and nuts from Ace hardware store or NAPA . So instead of fighting lining up oil drain flange and starting bolts without cross threading. I've done it solo but it's easier with four pair of hands. This other way you just put the studs in and gasket then slip the flange over studs and then start nuts and tighten. Keep the 3-bolt turbo/header flange bolts loose until you get oil drain bolted up.
One way to make it easier is get the right size studs and nuts from Ace hardware store or NAPA . So instead of fighting lining up oil drain flange and starting bolts without cross threading. I've done it solo but it's easier with four pair of hands. This other way you just put the studs in and gasket then slip the flange over studs and then start nuts and tighten. Keep the 3-bolt turbo/header flange bolts loose until you get oil drain bolted up.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
- Messages
- 2,895
A couple more things to think about....
Eventhough your car only has 36k miles and is in tip top condition, I would highly recommend that you replace your valve spings (eventhough they only have 36k miles, they have been under tension for over 20 years.), timing chain (factory cam gear is made of nylon and will eventually crack and break) and don't forget to use one bottle of ZDDPlus at each oil change. (Not enough zinc phosphorus in todays oils for our flat tappet cams)
If it were me, I would also eliminate the factory oil cooler and either replace it with an external cooler, or eliminate it all together. If you turbo is blowing oil, that means the oil seals have started leaking, what caused this leaking was excessive bearing clearances in the turbos' rotating assembly or trash in the oil. At a bare minimum, I would purchase a strong magnet to attach/tape to your oil filter.
Just some food for thought.
Patrick
Eventhough your car only has 36k miles and is in tip top condition, I would highly recommend that you replace your valve spings (eventhough they only have 36k miles, they have been under tension for over 20 years.), timing chain (factory cam gear is made of nylon and will eventually crack and break) and don't forget to use one bottle of ZDDPlus at each oil change. (Not enough zinc phosphorus in todays oils for our flat tappet cams)
If it were me, I would also eliminate the factory oil cooler and either replace it with an external cooler, or eliminate it all together. If you turbo is blowing oil, that means the oil seals have started leaking, what caused this leaking was excessive bearing clearances in the turbos' rotating assembly or trash in the oil. At a bare minimum, I would purchase a strong magnet to attach/tape to your oil filter.
Just some food for thought.
Patrick
bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
- Messages
- 2,092
I am very much interested in how it runs now with the 49 vs. stock and NO other changes. How's the spool? Top end? My car is is just like yours..... 'cept with alot more miles.. 
OK,Today was a much cooler than the other day.? was did i noticed a differance from stock to the t49. i would say a little At this point the turbo is much louder than stock and spools some what faster than the stock one.that is when im cruising it about 25mph and then hammering the gas
