Upper front control am question...

[Louie L.]

Is there an after market front upper control arm that will move the upper ball joint .75 out board or something close to that? This is with the stock spindle.

Are Ub control arms made in different sizes?

 

[UNGN]

You can have Ub Arms made just about any dimension you want.

http://www.ubmachine.com/

 

[Turbo6inKY]

I have the pole position arms. They're fully adjustable 2" on each shaft.

http://www.polepositionrp.com/PRO RACING SERIES-FULLY ADJUSTABLE CONTROL ARMS.htm

Couple these with a Chevy 1983 Chevy 1/2 Ton Pickup upper ball joint, and you'll have much better alignment options and make huge improvements in the front suspension geometry.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by Turbo6inKY
I have the pole position arms. They're fully adjustable 2" on each shaft.

http://www.polepositionrp.com/PRO RACING SERIES-FULLY ADJUSTABLE CONTROL ARMS.htm

Couple these with a Chevy 1983 Chevy 1/2 Ton Pickup upper ball joint, and you'll have much better alignment options and make huge improvements in the front suspension geometry.

Do you know what Part No. is needed for the GNs?.
TIA

 

[Turbo6inKY]

The 9200M

 

[Gbodynutt]

Wow those look like nice pieces. How are they on the street? With the ball joint it calls for did you have to hone out the spindal at all or did it just slide in? The price isn't too bad either considering your paying about $400 for the hotchkis ones.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by Turbo6inKY
The 9200M

Thank You
Bruce

 

[turbofish38]

I'm not quite sure if you are trying to change the roll centers but take a look at these http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=630
They will fit the stock arm and allow the same adjustability as lengthening the arm. Part number 833-210-L and 833-210-R.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Originally posted by Gbodynutt
Wow those look like nice pieces. How are they on the street? With the ball joint it calls for did you have to hone out the spindal at all or did it just slide in? The price isn't too bad either considering your paying about $400 for the hotchkis ones.

They're great on the street. You do not have to hog out the spindle to use those balljoints.

I'm not quite sure if you are trying to change the roll centers but take a look at these http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=630
They will fit the stock arm and allow the same adjustability as lengthening the arm. Part number 833-210-L and 833-210-R.

Those will allow you to alter the roll center height, but they do not allow you the alignment flexibility of the adjustable arms.

They're also a lot more expensive than the GM pickup truck balljoints.

 

[Louie L.]

Guys thanks for the info. Im just trying to get the an optimal drag race only aligment. My bud has owns his on tire and repair facilty and does many drag race aligments. Due to the nose up attitude my car takes all the way down track he feels that if I a slightly longer control arm he could align the car perfectly with the nose up. Hes done the best he can with the stock set up which has cured the high speed scrub feeling on the top end(134 mph) But He mentioned that a .75 longer control arm would do the trick.

Thanks

 

[Louie L.]

Oh 2 more questions....

I coulnt find a price on the Pole Position control arms. I also saw that the Camaro uppers are stated as being "street -strip", are all the G body "metric" model suitable for drag racing?

On the UB machine control arms. The main question is what is the stock measurement of the stock control arm and is there a readily available arm thats .75 longer ?

Thanks guys, this is all french to me

 

[Louie L.]

TTT

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Same problem here...

My car has "stepped up" from 130 to 141mph, and the "minor problem" at 130 has grown to a point that the car is so loose at 1000', that the driver has to pedal it to maintain control.
The adjustments on the shocks seem to make little difference.
We are also getting feedback that you don't use radial tires on the ft and bias slicks on the rear, or the problem will exsist.[Or at least be aggravated]
Now that I am seeing these posts, I'm beginning to wonder if it's the stock type ft alignment that's the real culprit, and not the tires.

We are:
1. Changed to ft runners.
2. Using a 10" wheel w/ 10" tires.
3. Adding max caster on stock components.
4. Using the M/T recommended tire pressure of 14psi.

Will test this next weekend w/ the F-body boyz, and post the results.

The mph at 141 should provide an et of at least 9.60, not the 9.9's it's doing now... I guess the 1.2 sec "tps at idle" time didn't help!!

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Originally posted by Louie L.
Oh 2 more questions....

I coulnt find a price on the Pole Position control arms.

http://www.polepositionrp.com/pricing.htm

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Re: Same problem here...

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper
My car has "stepped up" from 130 to 141mph, and the "minor problem" at 130 has grown to a point that the car is so loose at 1000', that the driver has to pedal it to maintain control.

You need more caster.

 

[bruce]

Well, I ordered a set of the Pole Position 9433X, Upper arm arms today. They're a street version of the 9200M's.

In talking to Ted, at Poleposition, I mentioned mounting the upper a-arms to the outside of the upper mount to get a little extra camber gain. He said should work fine, and if it did bottom out the threaded sleeves, shorter ones were available.

Included in the 9433X kits are a set of shims (.25") for spacing the arm to ball joint to get the best possible upper ball joint angle.

Just a FWIW.

 

[gnsrule]

Might wanna try this place :
http://www.lefthanderchassis.com/
They have a pretty substanial catalog and can prolly set you up w/o screwin ya.
Good Luck