Using a gas filter in the pvc line?

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1of1547

Village Idiot!!!
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
810
A buddy of mine is doing this on his T/R. Does anyone know where I can find this information. He can't remember were he got it from. He seems very pleased with it. Anybody else doing it?
 
Originally posted by 1of1547
A buddy of mine is doing this on his T/R. Does anyone know where I can find this information. He can't remember were he got it from. He seems very pleased with it. Anybody else doing it?

Do you mean Sediment Trap?.
A clear bowl?
Fram makes one.

I wouldn't use a paper element filter, once saturated with oil it ain't going to do much.

Running a real oil/air vapor seperator is what's really needed so as to eliminate any oil or oil fumes from getting to the intake.
 
If you do a search on PCV and look for posts by Carl Ijames I think you'll find his description of a setup like that.

John
 
I don't have my car in front of me but I think it is the PCV, the checkvalve and then Fram H3 (?) then back to the intake. After driving a little noticed oil in there. I think I also have a weak cylinder so that helps with the loss of oil. TB does look drier after I did this. Carl Ijames gave me the idea.
 
A lot of the C5 vette guys add filters on the pcv as well. Surf some of the vette forums if you have the chance:)
 
I have used the Fram G3 fuel filter inline with the PCV to trap the oil. I also use the check valve to keep from blowing the filter case apart under boost. I don't like this set up because the oil loads the paper element in a days time. I have a new motor with less than 3000 miles and get alot of oil back through the PCV. I blocked the PCV to see if the oil in the plenum stoped and it did. I have a new AC PCV also. I think one reason the oil is pulling back through the PCV is due to high vacuum my motor pulls. I have been looking for a oil seperator that I like to replace the Fram filter.

If anyone is using a oil seperator with good results let up know.
 
another possibility for an oil filter/separator is a compressed air component intended for oil removal.

for exmpl, Norgren ( http://webstore.usa.norgren.com ) makes a
"Miniature F39 Oil Removal (Coalescing) Filters, 1/8" and 1/4" Port Sizes".

The metal bowl version is rated 150ºF, 250 psig, (no vacuum rating listed).

Diameter about 1.5", length about 4", must be in vertical orientation. Don't know if it would easily fit, but this kind of product is specifically intended for removing oil vapors.

Available in manual & auto drains. Drain perhaps ought to be routed thru a hose so it doesn't drool onto intake manifold area ...
 
I built my own separator which works very well. If that little unit at norgren only has a 1.5/4 in. collection chamber or smaller, its going to need to be emptied about every 2 weeks and more often if the car is driven when its real cold outside as quite a bit of water/crankcase condensation will be collected. But, its a neat looking unit. My separator is about 3"x7" and I've made custom alum. lines and located it behind the charcoal canister.

HTH
 
wondering...

I have a vacuum brake conversion, and as recommended on this board, I tee'd into the hose for the PCV valve. Does this set-up send oil all the way to the brake booster? I hope something like that isn't happening.
 
Re: wondering...

Originally posted by BlackBeauty
I have a vacuum brake conversion, and as recommended on this board, I tee'd into the hose for the PCV valve. Does this set-up send oil all the way to the brake booster? I hope something like that isn't happening.
I suspect "No". The vacuum booster is a "dead end", so there is no continuous flow of air leading to it, that would carry oil vapors.
 
I've been pondering something lately... Could the high quantity of oil coming through the PCV be related to running open breathers? If you blocked in both the valve cover breather openings, the PCV would be trying to draw a vacuum on the crankcase, and the flow rate through the PCV would be low. With the open breathers the crankcase is at atmospheric pressure, and the higher the manifold vacuum you have the more flow you get through the PCV. That higher flow might be pulling a lot of oil with it.

I was thinking that if instead of open breathers, what if there was some device used that acted as a check valve. Whenever the crankcase is at some positive pressure (at WOT for example) the breather would let the excess pressure vent to the atmosphere. Under normal cruising or deceleration the breathers would close off, sealing the crankcase, and letting the PCV pull a good vacuum on it.

This would minimize the flow rate through the PCV at all times, and hopefully minimize the oil carryover into the intake. It would also do the best job of getting water and other contaminants out of the oil. Being able to actually pull a vacuum on the crankcase would do wonders on that score.

Only problem is... how to implement it? Only way I've thought of so far is a rubber flap type device, like a one way doggie door. Crankcase pressure builds up, flap opens, pressure released. Crankcase pressure goes down, flap returns to normal position, seals hole (which seals crankcase), and PCV can draw a good vacuum.

Or are there breathers already out there that act like this?

What do ya'll think about this?

John
 
Interesting idea. I imagine it would throw off your idle blm's and possibly your idle a little though because you'd be screwing up your metered air through the pcv at that point. Also, w/ the pcv in free air it will cycle from open to a type of piddle valve. If you stick it in a sealed environment it will go full open and pull as much air as will pass through it. Just try and put your finger slightly over the end of it and see what happens. Although I doubt it would do this in the large airspace inside an engine. I'm not sure if the big boys running the vacuumpumps sealed up the engine totally or not, never looked that close.

In GM's perfect world, they were metering the fresh air a little more than people now running breathers in both covers as GM only had the one in the PS cover and I imagine to keep from spooging any oil on the engine and environment they ran it into the turbo bell which also gave them filtered air. And, if the pcv was working perfect on a new engine then you really shouldn't get hardly any spooge into the turbo with that setup but after the miles we all know what happens.
 
John,
A vacuum release valve like the ones used on crankcase vacuum systems might work. You would have to flip it around. Maybe not this exact item, but something like it...............
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=4668&prmenbr=361

It uses AN-12 lines so it probably flows pretty well but I don't think one would flow enough in my estimation. 2 would be cost prhibitaive ($100 a piece). That's why I say "or something like it".
 
I'm not sure if it would screw up the idle or idle BLMs or not. I would think it would actually be closer to the factory setup. With no breather on the drivers side valve cover, and the pass side breather connected to the turbo inlet bell, air going through the PCV actually was seen and measured by the MAF. If going to open breathers didn't screw up the idle and BLMs I wouldn't think that blocking it in would screw it up either. But then I wouldn't have expected to see TurboDaves problems with PCV check valves either... Anyway, it's on my list of things to try sometime in the coming year, along with a PCV oil trap.

John
 
hmm interesting link Jeff. Looks like an overgrown Grainger valve. You're right, a little cost prohibitive! But flipped around it ought to work like I want... if it flows enough. NO idea of the flow capacity that would be required to relieve pressure buildups. Would rather not depend on blowing out the dipstick (or rear main seal)!

John
 
That's what it is oversized Grainger valve. I agree with you on the flow.........don't know? It's an idea for the do it yourself kind of guy though. Maybe make some?
 
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