I just picked up a set of valve springs from full throttle speed and want to install them this week sometime, what do I need to do this and what possible problems should I watch or plan for. Also I have a roll master timing chain for my turbo t and am wondering if I should change the cam at the same time I have a high mileage car with basic bolt ons plus alky and a ta-49. stock heads I want more performance but drive the car reguarly. What would be a good cam for my car? If you need more info here it is. 87 turbo t, stock block, heads, tranny , converter, rear, walbro 340 w/ hot wire, 42.5's, alky, stock intake and induction, houston 3inch dp, 2-1/2 hooker exh, maf translator not yet installed w/ 3 1/2 LS1 maf, also 62mm throttlebody not yet installed, ram air soon to be. thanks for any replies.
valve spring replacement help.. and questions
- Thread starter jamier
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imjoesnuffy
I just break stuff!
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2005
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vs replacement
Valve spring replacement is pretty easy.
1. Get the #1 Cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC)
2. Remove both valve covers and remove all spark plugs
3. Thread an air hose that has a spark plug adapter into the #1 cylinder
4. Pressurize the cylinder, this will make sure the valve doesnt drop into the cylinder when you remove the springs
. Just in case you are not at TDC.
5. With a spring compressor, compress the spring until you can remove the locks and retainer, and then remove the spring.
6. Reinstall a new spring, retainer then compress it until you can put on the new locks.
7. Disconnect the air line.
8. Repeat steps 1,3,4,5,6 and 7 for each valve. Dont forget to move the engine to get each piston at TDC for each cylinder you are working on.
Hope this helps.
Valve spring replacement is pretty easy.
1. Get the #1 Cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC)
2. Remove both valve covers and remove all spark plugs
3. Thread an air hose that has a spark plug adapter into the #1 cylinder
4. Pressurize the cylinder, this will make sure the valve doesnt drop into the cylinder when you remove the springs
. Just in case you are not at TDC.5. With a spring compressor, compress the spring until you can remove the locks and retainer, and then remove the spring.
6. Reinstall a new spring, retainer then compress it until you can put on the new locks.
7. Disconnect the air line.
8. Repeat steps 1,3,4,5,6 and 7 for each valve. Dont forget to move the engine to get each piston at TDC for each cylinder you are working on.
Hope this helps.
I've never done a Buick 6 before, so this may not apply, but here's how to do it on an SBC with pedestal mount rockers.
You need to hold the valves up in the cylinders. There's a couple ways to do it. Some guys pull the plugs and thread some cotton rope in through the spark plug hole, then slowly turn the engine over by hand until it stops. The rope on top of the piston should hold the valves up when you remove the springs. You can do the same thing with vinyl or butyl tubing. I use an adapter for my air hose that screws into the spark plug fitting. Normally, I can set the regulator on my compressor to 30 PSI or so and that is plenty to keep the valves in place.
Once you've got a way to keep the valves up, you'll need a small valve spring compressor. Advance sells one for $20 that looks like a 2 jaw puller that's pretty compact. I was able to get to all the springs on my Corvette with it, and the engine bay in there is quite a bit tighter than the Buick. You'll put the compressor on the spring and tighten it down. Normally, it will pull the bottom of the spring up, and you'll have to smack the top of the spring compressor slightly with your palm to get the spring to drop off the keepers. Before you smack it though, put a shop magnet, or one of the antenna style expandable magnets on top the spring. Usually, when you smack the compressor the keepers will stay on the valve stem, but not always. Once the keepers are exposed, move them around with the magnet until they lift free. Then loosen the compressor and pull the spring off. Be careful, some valve springs, when compressed contain a BUNCH of energy. Enough to kill a person sometimes. Try not to let the valve spring slip out of the compressor, it's got the potential to shoot out and hurt someone.
Now you're ready to set up the new spring. Install the shims on the head if the manufacturer calls for them. Loosen the compressor all the way, and install the new spring into the compressor, then tighten the compressor down. Be sure to install the hat, top plate, shims, etc... on the spring. Slip the spring and compressor over the valve stem as a unit. Install the keepers and loosen the spring compressor. If you are using different retainers, be sure to use the proper keepers.
Like I said, that's all based on pedestal mount SBC rockers. The Buick stuff could be completely different seeing as it's a shaft mount system. I don't 'think' that swapping the springs would be much different, but I've painfully discovered lately that the Buick 6 is considerably different than the SBC.
I'm sure this has come up before, some searching may yield a write up somewhere.
You need to hold the valves up in the cylinders. There's a couple ways to do it. Some guys pull the plugs and thread some cotton rope in through the spark plug hole, then slowly turn the engine over by hand until it stops. The rope on top of the piston should hold the valves up when you remove the springs. You can do the same thing with vinyl or butyl tubing. I use an adapter for my air hose that screws into the spark plug fitting. Normally, I can set the regulator on my compressor to 30 PSI or so and that is plenty to keep the valves in place.
Once you've got a way to keep the valves up, you'll need a small valve spring compressor. Advance sells one for $20 that looks like a 2 jaw puller that's pretty compact. I was able to get to all the springs on my Corvette with it, and the engine bay in there is quite a bit tighter than the Buick. You'll put the compressor on the spring and tighten it down. Normally, it will pull the bottom of the spring up, and you'll have to smack the top of the spring compressor slightly with your palm to get the spring to drop off the keepers. Before you smack it though, put a shop magnet, or one of the antenna style expandable magnets on top the spring. Usually, when you smack the compressor the keepers will stay on the valve stem, but not always. Once the keepers are exposed, move them around with the magnet until they lift free. Then loosen the compressor and pull the spring off. Be careful, some valve springs, when compressed contain a BUNCH of energy. Enough to kill a person sometimes. Try not to let the valve spring slip out of the compressor, it's got the potential to shoot out and hurt someone.
Now you're ready to set up the new spring. Install the shims on the head if the manufacturer calls for them. Loosen the compressor all the way, and install the new spring into the compressor, then tighten the compressor down. Be sure to install the hat, top plate, shims, etc... on the spring. Slip the spring and compressor over the valve stem as a unit. Install the keepers and loosen the spring compressor. If you are using different retainers, be sure to use the proper keepers.
Like I said, that's all based on pedestal mount SBC rockers. The Buick stuff could be completely different seeing as it's a shaft mount system. I don't 'think' that swapping the springs would be much different, but I've painfully discovered lately that the Buick 6 is considerably different than the SBC.
I'm sure this has come up before, some searching may yield a write up somewhere.
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
- Messages
- 9,719
more tips for valve spring swap
disconnect battery
get a set of valve cover gaskets
get the tool kirban sells , will make it easier
you'll need a bare rocker shaft to use this tool , a peice of pipe with two holes drilled will work, if not pick up new nylon rocker retainers (6 per side) so you can strip one of your shafts and replace the others.
you could also pick up 6 valve seals for the intake side.
have extra keepers (locks) on hand incase you should loose one or two and a magnet to remove the keepers ,magnetic pickup pen works great .
keep the pushrods and rockers in order so that they can be returned to the same spot you removed them from , a small box with a dozen holes punched in it , 6 on each side with cylinders # helps.
tap (not hammer) the tops of the retainers with a sparkplug socket and a hammer to dislodge the grab of the keepers on the retainers, if the valve retainer wont move easy when you press down on it tap it lightly again , otherwise the tool may break
if you use air to keep valves up cylinder will no doubt go to the bottom of the cylinder, make sure you have 100psi plus and all hose conections are tiight (tape them with duct tape just incase) , and be sure the compressor works and will run and hold air for a long time . if using rope method stuff rope through spark hole and then bring cylinder to top (or till it stops ) , you can rotate motor using a wrench in the alternator nut (sometimes you need to apply a little tension to the tensioner but if all plugs are out it should turn easily .
only work on one valve at a time!
once the old spring is off you can replace the seal on the intake
have some wheelbearing grease handy to install the keepers , put a dab of grease on lock and it will stick to the valve stem (and your finger too so you dont loose it so easily) . i find it eaasier to install one keeper at the front then with a small screwdriver rotate that keeper to the rear , then put the second one in at the front .
after both keepers are in tap the retainer again lightly to be sure locks set squarely.
disconnect battery
get a set of valve cover gaskets
get the tool kirban sells , will make it easier
you'll need a bare rocker shaft to use this tool , a peice of pipe with two holes drilled will work, if not pick up new nylon rocker retainers (6 per side) so you can strip one of your shafts and replace the others.
you could also pick up 6 valve seals for the intake side.
have extra keepers (locks) on hand incase you should loose one or two and a magnet to remove the keepers ,magnetic pickup pen works great .
keep the pushrods and rockers in order so that they can be returned to the same spot you removed them from , a small box with a dozen holes punched in it , 6 on each side with cylinders # helps.
tap (not hammer) the tops of the retainers with a sparkplug socket and a hammer to dislodge the grab of the keepers on the retainers, if the valve retainer wont move easy when you press down on it tap it lightly again , otherwise the tool may break
if you use air to keep valves up cylinder will no doubt go to the bottom of the cylinder, make sure you have 100psi plus and all hose conections are tiight (tape them with duct tape just incase) , and be sure the compressor works and will run and hold air for a long time . if using rope method stuff rope through spark hole and then bring cylinder to top (or till it stops ) , you can rotate motor using a wrench in the alternator nut (sometimes you need to apply a little tension to the tensioner but if all plugs are out it should turn easily .
only work on one valve at a time!
once the old spring is off you can replace the seal on the intake
have some wheelbearing grease handy to install the keepers , put a dab of grease on lock and it will stick to the valve stem (and your finger too so you dont loose it so easily) . i find it eaasier to install one keeper at the front then with a small screwdriver rotate that keeper to the rear , then put the second one in at the front .
after both keepers are in tap the retainer again lightly to be sure locks set squarely.
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