You can type here any text you want

Valve train noise on cold start

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

etriebe

Active Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2008
Messages
277
Hello just purchased an 87 limited t and every time it sits for more than a few hours it ticks for a seconds until oil gets flowing. How can I prevent this


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
If you're using a Fram (and short) or cheap oil filter, toss it and get a quality one. Better yet, get a biggie kit and a quality oil filter.

If you already have a quality filter and startup rattle, there's a good chance your pump is worn and take a couple extra seconds to get the oil up to speed.
 
Listen to Earl, he is the oiling system guru :)


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
If you're using a Fram (and short) or cheap oil filter, toss it and get a quality one. Better yet, get a biggie kit and a quality oil filter.

The following statements are opinion and do not necessarily reflect the views of the board, its owners, or any of its members unless explicitly stated. (Trying to avoid polluting the OP's thread with the ol' filter discussion).

Some Good filters that are readily available - wix, napa gold (rebranded wix), Baldwin.

Some bad filters - fram cheapies, ac delco (pains me to say that), Mobil 1.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
The following statements are opinion and do not necessarily reflect the views of the board, its owners, or any of its members unless explicitly stated. (Trying to avoid polluting the OP's thread with the ol' filter discussion).

Some Good filters that are readily available - wix, napa gold (rebranded wix), Baldwin.

Some bad filters - fram cheapies, ac delco (pains me to say that), Mobil 1.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

I agree as this might not be everyone's view. I have personally seen fram filters disintegrate at less then there recommended service life, not once but repeatedly and this may not be the reason others don't use them or like them for that matter, but that's why I personally wouldn't use a fram on a chevette. I happen to like wix and napa gold filters myself. Just saying.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Is it a tick or valve clatter. Tick could be something else like a cracked manifold (It's rare on TR's for the drivers side manifold to not crack)
 
Mine lifters bleed down as well if I let the car sit for several days. Mine is due to it having 140-150lbs of spring pressure on the seat. It's just something that I live with because as soon as the oil pressure comes up, it goes away. I had a ZZ502 crate engine in my boat, that I installed heavy springs on and it would do it also.
 
I seem to be having the same problem but mine doesn't go away when it gets hot. Theres about 3000 miles on the rebuild. Crapy lifters?
What should the oil pressure be hot at idle? Any help would be great.:)
 
I seem to be having the same problem but mine doesn't go away when it gets hot. Theres about 3000 miles on the rebuild. Crapy lifters?
What should the oil pressure be hot at idle? Any help would be great.:)
 
I agree as this might not be everyone's view. I have personally seen fram filters disintegrate at less then there recommended service life, not once but repeatedly and this may not be the reason others don't use them or like them for that matter, but that's why I personally wouldn't use a fram on a chevette. I happen to like wix and napa gold filters myself. Just saying.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Here is my experience with a Fram filter...NEVER again !!! Blew the seal after it collapsed and oiled down the side of my car and the entire underneath while in boost !! Could have been VERY ugly on the track !!!

IMAG0361.jpg
 
I seem to be having the same problem but mine doesn't go away when it gets hot. Theres about 3000 miles on the rebuild. Crapy lifters?
What should the oil pressure be hot at idle? Any help would be great.:)

Every time I see 'fresh rebuild' I cringe... Lifters require oil pressure to keep quiet (assuming the pushrod length is correct. Do you know for sure yours are?), What's your current oil pump setup, filter, lifters, and bearing clearances?
 
I dont know much. Bought it used from a friend. He's look for the bill to check. Hopefully stock rebuild on the pump, AC filiter [52], lifters
stock replacements. Right now I know theres .020 on the rebuild with forged pistons. Sorry but thats the only info i have so far.
 
Toss that AC filter in the trash and get a good filter. It's sourced from overseas now.
 
That's going to be the first step. Pull the valve covers and give everything a once over. Than check the pump and slap on a booster plate and hope for the best.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Booster plates are an unnecessary band-aid. Plus, I don't even think they're available for sale anymore. If the filter is the problem there's no need to open up a pump and add gimmicks.
 
Changed the oil filter and gave it new oil (VR 20-50). The pressure is much better from idle up but the lifters are still
making noise on start up after sitting all night. Maybe they whent bad? I had the engine sitting for a couple of years. Like
8 years.
 
Whats the bigest filter we can put on a tb i know on a 350 chev you can put on the biger ph5

Part numbers would be apreciated???


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
You haven't stated whether your motor is F/T or roller and with the info you have given one can only guess at the most common issues you speak of.

You haven't stated your cold/hot oil pressures, but that seems irrelevant as the noise goes away after pressure builds.

It sounds like your lifters are weak and or the lifter preload is off a few thousandths.

Check pushrod length like mentioned above for correct preload and if all is well there your lifters may need to be replaced, depending on how loud and length of time they rattle/tick.

Otherwise you can live with it if it's only making noise on intial startup because it sounds like from what you stated it's only on cold startup that this happens and your lifters are bleeding down over night.

It would help you more to know what the machine shop milled off the block/heads to determine what the proper pushrod length is needed.

RZ.
 
Back
Top