Valvoline VR-1

[87Turbo-TWE4]

I currently use conventional Valvoline with a bottle of ZDDP on every change. My question is, how much ZDDP do you use with VR-1 or any at all?

 

[SS/GN]

None the valvoline vr1 racing oilis a very good oil.Some stock eliminator cars are running flat tappet cams with over 150 lbs on the seat and they are living

Kevin

 

[gnpoweredrail]

^^^^Can someone translate that for me

 

[hensleyt]

Call valvoline at 800-832-6825 They answer that Question every day

 

[Boost231]

i run one bottle of zddp in every oil change. i use VR1 20w50. I also have a RJC deep oil pan so my car takes lots of oil. now how much am i suppose to put in there. not sure, atleast some

 

[Nick Micale]

I have run VR-1 for years with a bottle EOS, and then ZDDP since it first came out.

My engine has been freshened twice in the past couple years with almost 300 passes each time. I have never had a worn rod or main bearing, or any wear issue in the valve train.

I doubt that a street engine during its life would be subjected to the wear and punishment my engine takes between each freshen, so VR-1 and ZDDP would be all you would need.

Just a comment on "tech lines", be it an oil company, or other product, they are always going to tell you their product IS going to work for you, their job depends on consumers purchasing their product.

Just because a product costs more, does NOT make it the best for a given application.

For example, synthetic oils are touted as the "best"? In the real world of boosted engines, their advantage of long life is bogus because our oil gets contaminated with combustion gases and unburned fuel long before the oil reaches its useful life. We change oil at much shorter intervals than the "average" driver, or at least we should.

Synthetic oil has no more "protection" that regular oil, usually less, so it ends up being a waste of $$ unless someones ego feels like he must use the "best".

 

[SS/GN]

^^^^Can someone translate that for me

Stock eliminator is a NHRA class that has strict rules,they still use hyd flat tappet cams with modified lifters and the spring pressures on the seat are over 150 lbs where as our cars are usually 100 or even less .The vr1 oil is a quality product and as mentioned here their are others.:biggrin:

I have run VR-1 for years with a bottle EOS, and then ZDDP since it first came out.

My engine has been freshened twice in the past couple years with almost 300 passes each time. I have never had a worn rod or main bearing, or any wear issue in the valve train.

I doubt that a street engine during its life would be subjected to the wear and punishment my engine takes between each freshen, so VR-1 and ZDDP would be all you would need.

Just a comment on "tech lines", be it an oil company, or other product, they are always going to tell you their product IS going to work for you, their job depends on consumers purchasing their product.

Just because a product costs more, does NOT make it the best for a given application.

For example, synthetic oils are touted as the "best"? In the real world of boosted engines, their advantage of long life is bogus because our oil gets contaminated with combustion gases and unburned fuel long before the oil reaches its useful life. We change oil at much shorter intervals than the "average" driver, or at least we should.

Synthetic oil has no more "protection" that regular oil, usually less, so it ends up being a waste of $$ unless someones ego feels like he must use the "best".

Very true great info.

Kevin

 

[jlat]

hello peope; I'm in the thinking a street drivin car goes thru more abuse than a drag engine. A drag race is controlled. You make a pass, tweek some and blast again. Do you remember the commercial "taxie tested tuff" I can't remember but I do believe it was for oil but I could be wrong.
IBBY

 

[Nick Micale]

hello peope; I'm in the thinking a street drivin car goes thru more abuse than a drag engine. A drag race is controlled. You make a pass, tweek some and blast again. ...............IBBY

You cannot be serious, this is a joke right? :biggrin:

Have you ever had a drag car, or been to a drag strip?

How many rods have you seen window a block on the street, or cranks break or blocks trashed on the street? If it is street raced or hammered every day, that may be possible.

Many GN's have made it over 100K miles on the street with no major tranny or engine issues, but the track launch and WOT for 1/4 mile imparts loads that are not easy to duplicate on the street.

Then we have much higher boost and leaded race gas to quickly contaminate the oil, and there is massive internal loading on critical parts that increases wear.

Also, 10-15 minutes between max power runs in competition keeps internal engine temps much higher than street driving.

I know your "thinking" is just an opinion, so I am only expressing what is my experience, and I have probably been dealing with cars and racing longer than you have been alive!

Thanks for participating, and have a safe and Happy New Year.

 

[SS/GN]

Nick please save your long posts for people that really appreciate your input:wink:Ahh like me.Have a safe and Happy New Year and thanks for all the input:biggrin:

Kevin

 

[Buix893]

Do the big name auto stores like autozone and pepboys carry VR-1?

 

[PaulRV6]

I guess I would like to know also? Thanks

paul

 

[Squid4life]

Do the big name auto stores like autozone and pepboys carry VR-1?

I just saw it yesterday at Autozone or Kragen here in San Diego.

I have run VR-1 for years with a bottle EOS, and then ZDDP since it first came out.

So Nick, what weight do you run? I know you are in like 200 degree heat most of the year, but curious nonetheless.

 

[tonysmach]

I use the 20w-50 VR1. I get it at Advanced Auto.

 

[Buix893]

Would it be ok to switch over to the 20W-50?...I have been using 10W-30 for years and just curious to know if it would effect the motor?

 

[tonysmach]

Would it be ok to switch over to the 20W-50?...I have been using 10W-30 for years and just curious to know if it would effect the motor?

In my opinion, there would be no issue at all. There are plenty of guys running 20w-50 VR1 in their engines on this board. I started using the 20w-50 based on previous threads I have read on this board.

 

[gnpoweredrail]

I run 3 quarts of 20w-50 and 2 quarts of 60.
But My engine also gets worked alot harder than a drag car or a street car.

 

[jlat]

hello people; IMO engines break because of a certain type of abuse,bad assembly,poor maintenance and just trying to do to much. Drag racing can be a do and don'ts and money. I've been to the drags and it got boring till the funny cars came out. Maybe if I raced it wouldn't be. How about a dyno run is that abuse?
I don't know but driving around with the AC on on a hot and humid day that's abuse. I know cars are engineered to work in those conditions but it's amazing they can when you think about it.
IBBY
I just read what GN sand rail had to say and I agree. These are all forms of abuse vehicles take and it's something the keep runnin.

 

[Jordan_J]

Do the big name auto stores like autozone and pepboys carry VR-1?

We sell it at work (Advance Auto) for around $4.50-$5 a quart. Something like that. So I'm sure all the other parts stores should carry it for similar too.

I used VR-1 20w-50 during my last cam change and loved it. It seemed to raise my oil pressure just a little bit and there is a peace of mind knowing it has the extra zinc. I'll keep the Mobil 1 for my other cars.

 

[ThikStik]

The most abuse possible that an internal combustion engine can encountered is from being in the ghetto. Ive seen some ghetto bombs , like a poor 305 Caprice that had never seen an oil change , and it had 1.5 quarts of oil in it the day I talked the lady into letting me change her oil for free. No stress or loading there , of course. Just crude oil in pan.