Recently my original volt blaster decided to stop working and I have been considering buying a new one or switching to a boost a pump.. Does anyone have any thoughts on if one product is better than the other? My original volt blaster worked well for many years but I'm thinking that a boost a pump will be much more controlled and consistent for my fuel pump will other things turn on when I'm driving my car. Below is a log of what happens to my voltage when my dual fans and second fuel pump turns on at the same time. Before and after the voltage drop the voltage is 14.2 volts and as shown in the log the voltage drops to 13.4.
Volt Blaster vs Boost a pump
- Thread starter Sleeper 6
- Start date
1986 Buick GX1
GX1 #001 [The One and Only]
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2015
The volt blaster increases the voltage to your coil pack for better spark at higher boost levels as well.
Maybe Casper’s CCCI hot wire kit would take care of that.
Maybe Casper’s CCCI hot wire kit would take care of that.
Thanks. When I upgraded the fuel pump to what I have now I also upgraded to the Racetronic bigger wire kit. I also increased the fuel line to the bigger lines too. I don't believe I have a problem with the fuel pump. I was just wondering since my old Volt baster finally failed and instead of just replacing it, if there was a better way to assure my fuel pump voltage could be controlled and any voltage drop would be minimized. I was also thinking if the Boost a pump had a POT on it I could turn the voltage up at the track and then turn it back down for the street. Basically maximizing fuel flow when I need it and reducing the flow when I don't need it. Again thanks for your comments.
The kb boostapump has a hobbs switch to trigger the voltage increase.
Which their switches are set to come on around 3 to 5psi.
They work good if you want to add volts that route.
One I had years ago would do 17.5 and 21 volts.
I gave had a few combos that lasted a very long time with that setup.
It outlasts the pumps that's for sure.
Mr. Spool is there anything I should be concerned with if I go with Boost A Pump instead of just installing a new volt blaster to replace my old failed unit? My pump specification say the pump will provide 680 LPH @ 43.5 PSI @ 13.5 V @ 22.5A but at higher voltage the pump will provide 820 LPH @ 43.5 PSI @ 16 V @ 27.5 A. My current fuel pressure is set at 47.2 on E85 and I was thinking if I went with a boost a pump I might be able to lower my base fuel pressure back down to 43.5 which should benefit the fuel system. Am I on the right track or is my inexperience showing? My car is mainly used as a street car and doesn't go to much to the track. Full blast hits on the street are really only a couple few seconds so the pump shouldn't see high voltage for to long.
I wore out alot pumps but the car was driven and raced alot at that time and was not on e85 at that time.
my cars are on e85 but they have brushless spur pumps and pte lines.
On another note
Running you fuel pressre at 47 vs 43 wont hurt anything.
If the setup was working before and it was meeting your goals just add the kb and your back to what you had.
It's also very common to raise base fp on e85.
I just switched from a volt booster to the boost-a pump. I went to the track yesterday and was impressed. There was nothing wrong with the volt booster, i just got a good deal on the BAP and liked the idea of it. I Checked and double checked that it was sending the correct 17 volts to the pump when the hobs switched closed.
I made 7 passes yesterday and had no issues. AFRs were right on point (and i run a little rich anyway)
I made 7 passes yesterday and had no issues. AFRs were right on point (and i run a little rich anyway)
Nice!
MommasGN can you provide any additional detail on the changes you saw in your logs going from the volt blaster to a BAP? My thought (right or wrong?) was the BAP advantage was it directly provided the added true clean voltage to the pump and it didn't matter if other things in the car turned on or off causing a voltage drop felt by the whole system. In my log above there is a voltage drop when the fan turns on and maybe that is contributing to my AFR going slightly lean from targeted AFR. I was just looking to maximize fuel flow when it is needed.
That is the advantage of the bap
I'll post a log with the volt booster vs the BAP. With no other changes, I feel my AFR was more steady and half a point richer with the BAP. Also.....i noticed no other difference in how it ran without the volt booster........ i.e: more voltage for coil, injectors, etc. In my opinion......If you have a good ignition system already, there is no need for the extra voltage. Another advantage.....one less thing to clutter the engine wiring.
Again, i had no issues with the volt booster. Some have posted that it cured their misfires and running issues with the extra voltage.
Again, i had no issues with the volt booster. Some have posted that it cured their misfires and running issues with the extra voltage.
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
I ran the Caspers V Plus Volt Booster. Worked as advertised as per the vid as shown on PL.
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
Three good options.
BAP (big bump when you need it)
Volt Booster (bump when you need it)
External Regulator (keeps the volts higher the whole time, I had Reds volt regulator, 14.2 in gear all the time).
First, assuming everything's functioning normal then...
Are you a KISS person, then Caspers is pretty straight forwards and bam, problem solved.
Are you a serious track/ street racer, BAP all the way and let it eat like Spool does 17V+.
If the Volt Booster is in the car, you're not running the single pump on kill, you might wanna just get a new Volt Booster and you're done. I'm on the bigger 150 amp Alt but it's not 14.2 the whole time, I might need to go Booster after seeing logs. Plug and play is more ideal on the new Casper harness.
BAP (big bump when you need it)
Volt Booster (bump when you need it)
External Regulator (keeps the volts higher the whole time, I had Reds volt regulator, 14.2 in gear all the time).
First, assuming everything's functioning normal then...
Are you a KISS person, then Caspers is pretty straight forwards and bam, problem solved.
Are you a serious track/ street racer, BAP all the way and let it eat like Spool does 17V+.
If the Volt Booster is in the car, you're not running the single pump on kill, you might wanna just get a new Volt Booster and you're done. I'm on the bigger 150 amp Alt but it's not 14.2 the whole time, I might need to go Booster after seeing logs. Plug and play is more ideal on the new Casper harness.
