volt booster

[tford]

I just received my built engine with 212 roller cam & ported heads with matched intake. Going to be running conservative 20 psi on alky. My engine builder said a volt booster is required to assure fuel system isn't falling short on the big end. It seems a lot of you guys have some negative feedback about these things causing problems. Is the better solution to upgrade to a 200 amp alternator?
Even though this engine is capable of big power, my near stock 2004r trans will be toast if I ran it to its full potential. Therefore, I will not be beating on it at the track, but will be running it hard on the street of course. Just car shows & tire spin in my future until the weak link is addressed. When the time comes to go run it (after trans upgrade) at the track, will the volt booster or 200 amp alternator be necessary? Thanks, Tim

 

[robzombie]

The verdict is all over the place on this one. I think that like most people considering one they should decide if it works for them and not worry about what the other guy is saying.

That being said the only hurdle I see in you using one is that you use alky. When you turn up the voltage with a VB you may have to adjust your alky settings to compensate.

The reason people love or hate them is because every car and person tuning with them has a different setup and knowledge level in what they are doing to their car.

If your alt is putting out 13.5 volts or more you probably don't need a VB. That's just my opinion.

I have run with and without a VB and found I don't need one.

 

[Pronto]

A 200 amp won't change the fuel pump output, supplying extra volts to the pump will. The 200 and just expands the number of high amp draw devices you can run at once. I haven't seen an issue with the vb and alky. Most stock or lightly model 200r's I've seen start to fail at 12 flat. Some make it longer, others don't. Regardless of the trans your new engine is going to need fuel...

 

[robzombie]

What he needs is a hot wire for the fuel pump. The VB is not needed if the charging system is putting out enough volts.

The VB is added insurance under WOT, but I had to re-tune my alky because the VB output my voltage to the high 15 low 16 range which did affect alky pump pressure output.

 

[Nigel]

I think the volt booster is good for extra spark volts. I had to re-tune with the volt booster like robzombie mentions. I have a caspers volt booster, but converted to use a map sensor. Using the translator pro, it was strait forward to map the fuel. Otherwise, when the volt booster activated, it would slow the spool up prior to adjusting the fueling. I have not cooked anything to date, so I like the volt booster.

 

[Pronto]

What he needs is a hot wire for the fuel pump.

It's in his sig. I haven't seen any significant problems with spool up or tune. I like to use lots of alky. One of my mentors turns the knob to 8 and tunes from there...

 

[robzombie]

It's in his sig. I haven't seen any significant problems with spool up or tune. I like to use lots of alky. One of my mentors turns the knob to 8 and tunes from there...

Yea I missed that, should have read his sig closer. I'm a drunk also. Love the alky in copious amounts.

 

[Nick Micale]

What he needs is a hot wire for the fuel pump. The VB is not needed if the charging system is putting out enough volts.........

Here is my opinion on Rob's comment about the hot wire for the fuel pump, and also enough volts/amps for other critical items.

Most all in-tank fuel pumps rated output is defined at 13.5 volts, which is generally ok but at WOT I prefer a higher level.

Fuel delivery at WOT is very critical and it is important to protect a $10K+ investment in the engine alone.

With my engine at double that amount I want to be sure ample fuel is always available at WOT, so I spent a few hundred dollars for a Boost-a-Pump which will give me 17 volts coming on at the pump at a boost setting I can select.

This also provides me with very consistent performance, plus it is a major safety factor protecting the engine.

Also, if there is a concern about a good, hot spark, Casper's has a simple fix with a wire upgrade to put 12 volts direct into the coil pack/module rather than depend on a 30+ year old wiring harness to feed 12 volts there.

For a 11 or 12 sec. street car, these mods may be somewhat over the top, and a volt booster at that level is a very good addition. Cars capable of 10's and better must have some provision for ample fuel supply, and depending on original wiring and sender is less than borderline.

 

[robzombie]

I ran with a volt booster and have since taken it off. I haven't experienced any issues without it. The reason I took it off was for two reasons. The first was that I was trying to track down an electrical problem that was draining the battery if not driven every two days or more. The VB wasn't the problem as I found out.

The second reason was that the alky tuning was inconsistent because the voltage being supplied to the fuel pump wasn't always at a set voltage. Sometimes it would be at 15 and change others it would be at 16 and change which made tuning the alky a little more difficult.
It wasn't a major issue as I did tune around it and always went a little fat on the fuel curve [alky] when running it. I would tune for the 15 and change and if the voltage went to 16 and change it would just run a little fatter with the extra fuel. If the VB was consistent on what voltage it would produce I would've kept it on because the tune would be spot on every time if the variance was less than 1/2 a volt.

Without the VB I can run a leaner tune but still be safe and make more power as I know that the voltage will be at 13.8 to 14.1 at WOT which is easier for me to tune consistently knowing that the voltage variable is now taken out of the equation. I was however thinking of putting a hot wire on the alky pump also to make it consistent at WOT in knowing that the fuel and alky will be at same voltage whether it be 15 or 16 plus volts.

As with most things we put on our cars everyone might have a different experience on whether one product will work great for some and not so well for others.

It all comes down to the individuals experience with tuning as well as the combo being run. That's why I feel that there is so much controversy over just about any part we put on our cars whether it be a VB or turbo or just about any other part. I'm waiting for someone to ask which oil dipstick should I use for more power and see what controversy will start over that.LOL.

I'm not disputing what Nick said as I'm sure it works for him in his situation. I'm just saying that two cars running identical setups can and most often will produce different results. What Nick also said about ample fuel delivery is also true and can be accomplished in more than one way. A VB is just one option of the many that are available.

 

[TurboBuRick]

In my experience, the volt booster eventually takes out the alternator. Otherwise it's a beautiful thing.

 

[BEATAV8]

I've had good luck with my Casper's volt boosters. This is what it looks like when the V booster kicks in. ~14.7 volts instead of ~12.5.

The fuel pump(s) really picks up with some extra voltage.

 

[BEATAV8]

After all.... It's all about the fuel PSI's, isn't it?

 

[Pronto]

Yes it its! Those are some nice numbers on the logs.

 

[Mr.Spool]

When the time comes to go run it (after trans upgrade) at the track, will the volt booster or 200 amp alternator be necessary?

it depend on how much fuel is required to run the target afrs you want while suppressing detonation.the vb makes both the fuel and alky pumps increase delivery,therefore fattening the fuel curve,which works great on a car that moves a lot of air but slows a car down that doesn't.as discussed above your fuel curve should be tuned to your combo.

 

[tford]

Thanks for all of the great advice. I'm going to give it a try since the engine builder said it needs to have it.