Hello everyone. Hope all is well. I'm having a problem with my battery losing voltage when I turn the key to the "run" position. As a result, car will not start. I did a "parasitic drain" check. It's within specs, 38 Mili amps. [.038] I did some checking with "fusible links." Also, I relocated all "five" of them up on to plastic inner fender years ago, I really didn't think the "starter solenoid" was an ideal location. I brought a feed from the battery to supply power. Anyway, there is not a whole lot of information with regard to fuse links. I found some in the GM books I have, but not a "complete" break down of exactly what each of the links supply power to. I was able to isolate "Fuse Link "A." That's the one that supplies power to the "charging circuit." Here is where I am at. With my multimeter on the battery terminals, I have a normal reading 12.6-12.7 volts. As soon as I apply power to this particular link, I hear a click, most likely a relay, then the voltage begins to drop. It drops to low 11's, 11.1-11.2V. The car WILL NOT START! What I need to know, is what "fuse link "A" feeds, "everything." Then I can isolate whatever is causing voltage drop. I also replaced key switch last year. This problem is "new." Thanks very much. P.S. this winter when I put the car away, I plan on replacing the three switches at the bottom of the "steering column." I found a "neutral safety switch," "ignition switch," and a "turn signal switch. All [NOS] in the box. I did speak with someone with this issue, and he said, [C-100,] "bulkhead Connector." I do not want to go there unless I have no other choice. I hope you have enough information to solve this issue. Thanks again in advance.
Voltage Drop
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ill put this here but if you have 11 when cranking at the solenoid and it doesnt crank you need a new solenoid
this irks me when someone states will not start and that infers it cranks but wont fire , do you mean no fire or no crank or no solenoid click ?
when connecting fuselinkA (two leads off starter on the vin 7) the only thing that should be drawing on it is anti theft if you have that , any other draw requires turning ignition key
this irks me when someone states will not start and that infers it cranks but wont fire , do you mean no fire or no crank or no solenoid click ?
when connecting fuselinkA (two leads off starter on the vin 7) the only thing that should be drawing on it is anti theft if you have that , any other draw requires turning ignition key
Hello. Thanks for your reply. To be clear, I never said I was checking voltage at the starter solenoid. I said I had my meter at the battery terminals. I did not state that I had "disabled" factory alarm," also previous owner's "aftermarket" alarm, my bad, it was a "rat's nest!" By the way, I have both images you sent, plus a couple more. The problem is, they are kind of vague. They tell you what "splice" to look for, for instance "S200." And where it feeds "C-100" [bulkhead connector," but does not go into more detail. Anyway, I think I know what the problem might be. I have a lot of gauges in the car. Plus, an aftermarket stereo system with an amp, a subwoofer, and a disc changer located in the trunk. As I stated earlier, the person I spoke to before I posted my question said to check "C-100" connector, which "fuse link "A" goes to. I think I inadvertently disturbed the connections while pushing all that wiring up under the dash, so it wouldn't be hanging down. I believe the term is "Wire Management." I plan on lowering or removing steering column to install switches as I said in my first post. As far as being clearer as to what occurred during cranking, it made a couple of "faint sounds." I guess you would call it clicking from solenoid, I don't know. All I know is that when it makes that sound, it means the battery does not have enough voltage to turn the car over. Not only are the "grounds" very important, but also the battery being "fully charged." Infact, I purchased one of those "jump packs." I had to use it once. Also, the battery is new and has been "load tested." Also, I have a brand new "Mini Starter" from TA Performance. I try to eliminate the simple things first. thanks for your help. As you can see, there is a lot going on here. What you don't see, is all the wiring involved here. Also, I just remembered, I don't know if you can see it in the first image, but I installed "power mirrors." The control is sitting on top of center consol. I took it out of an '87 Iroc Camaro, with the full harness and both outside mirrors.
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Not necessarily. Bad cables, connections, etc can all contribute.
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To help you, let's start here...
12.6v key off at battery
11.2v key on at battery
So you turn the key and say...
Car won't start
A) it'll crank but not catch
B) it won't crank, no starter noise
C) Instantly sounds like a short out and zonks (possible gradual fade out and zonks)
Maybe....
B) There could be an anti theft on the car or dead starter.
C) Tend to be battery so dead (also be cells dead but shows good volts) like 9v or below or such a weak battery it fades fast during cranking.
12.6v key off at battery
11.2v key on at battery
So you turn the key and say...
Car won't start
A) it'll crank but not catch
B) it won't crank, no starter noise
C) Instantly sounds like a short out and zonks (possible gradual fade out and zonks)
Maybe....
B) There could be an anti theft on the car or dead starter.
C) Tend to be battery so dead (also be cells dead but shows good volts) like 9v or below or such a weak battery it fades fast during cranking.
