Want opinions on driver suspension mods

[GoldHawg]

Ok, after reading lots on this site, I have most of my plan on how to upgrade a totally stock GN suspension w/110k miles. I want to handle as well as possible, hook up better (but I doubt I'll be on the track), and be a relatively comfortable daily driver. I toyed w/Kirban's GNX suspension, but thinking of the following--similar to our moderator:
All body braces for GNX, new poly body bushings plus missing GNX, Bilsteins all around, GW rear LCAs, either edlebrock or currie adj UCAs (spherical bearings and 1LE rubber), and the HNR rear bar. For the front, SCC UCAs w/Howe ball joint, stock LCAs w/del-alum bushings. Not sure which front sway bar would go well w/my goals and the rear hnr bar, thinking the 36MM hollow camaro. I plan on going w/GTA 16in wheels all around.

For the brakes, I will change over to the hydroboost; not sure what would be best front brake w/the SCC UCAs.

I know the HNR bar is really more for the racers hooking up, but i'm sold by everyone that has it absolutely raving over it.

So what would you change given my goals?

Thx!

 

[jdpolzin]

What front springs are you planning to use?? I would suggest ZQ8 brakes on the front. You may actually be able to find the whole set up with the spindles in a bone yard!!

 

[GoldHawg]

Thx...I knew I'd forget something in the list. I wanted the stock height 20% stiffer kirban springs. For the ZQ8 I'm interested, but didn't want any of the dragging pad issues I'd read. I still need to research more on the LS1 brake upgrade as well. But whatever I do, it has to fit under the GTA wheels.

 

[Ttype6]

I want to handle as well as possible, hook up better.

I'll assume when you say hook up better you mean leave quicker in a drag race.If this is true,stiffer springs in the front will make it hook worse. There aren't many things you can do that make it hook better and corner better at the same time. You usually have to pick one or the other. Many things you do to help it corner better will make it ride rougher. It's hard to have the best of both worlds.

 

[GoldHawg]

Thx...I am wanting better handling vice racing--the bias would clearly be to improve handling at expense of optimum hookup. That said, my hope is that the combo of all mods would be a slight improvement over stock in hookup (surely the HNR bar will contribute toward this) with more substantial improvement in handling. In other words, hook up will suffer relative to handling, but still in absolute terms be better than stock.

Am I dreaming to hope this?

 

[jdpolzin]

If you are planning to handle you should definately lower the fron a little! The Howe's ball joints and SPC arms will lower the car 3/4" or so. I personally wouldnt run a stock height spring but thats just me!!

 

[Gary Wells]

Jeff:
Sorry that I did not get back with you but things came up. I am sure that you will be 100% happy with the HRParts&Stuff rear sway bar, but I believe that it comes with upper control arms so you might want to check about that before ordering upper control arms. The only thing that I have against the HRParts&Stuff bar is it's near proximity to the ground beneath the pumpkin. I have never heard of anyone having any problems with it, so to me it is just a cosmetic thing. Spohn is coming out with one designed for the street with the emphasis on handling but it has already been delayed at least once on it's producton date. It's unfortunate, but hell might freeze over before we ever see one in production. Besides that, Pual Ferry of HRParts&Stuff is a Turbobuick.com supporting vendor, so can't go wrong there. FWIW, Kirban's 20% stiffer springs are stock height replacement springs so your car should come out like mine an the front end with Savitske Classic & Custom StreetComp II package if you go with the Howe taller balls. Getting both upper & lower Howe Precision tall balls will remove the bump steer for the major part. I would leave the stock front sway bar intact until you get a little more closer to home on the overall package, so to speak. I think that with the HRParts&Stuff rear sway bar it minimizes the need for a big front bar. I really think that you will amazed at the difference between stock versus what you are planning, especially when you hook up the 16" rims & tires. I am running Michelin Sport Pilot 245X50R16's all the way around and I am exceptionally pleased with it's handling ability compared with what it used to be stock. Mike Barnard (Spoolfool2 on this forum) got a 12.7@107 time slip with my car this last Friday on those tires & rims at Fontanna. Good luck & HTH.

 

[GoldHawg]

Thx much for all your inputs. Re the stock height, I understand that lowering will improve the handling but I am the 1 in 100 that does not like the lowered look. I agree w/Gary on the look of the HNR bar; I wish it was tucked up higher. But given its performance advantages, and that I'll seldom see that view (as opposed to the front height which I'd see every time I walked up to the car) I'll probably live with that.

I keep hearing that there are new suspension options coming...but haven't seen it yet. The reality is that I won't start until this summer, so if it comes out soon I'll still have time to reconsider. But I may start buying some stuff this spring...

thx again.

 

[Hot Air]

How about the b-car spindle? Comes with 12" rotor (use 1LE rotors for correct bolt circle). Will need Hotchkis tubular upper control arm but that will get you a much better camber curve. For front sway bar, go with Hotchkis hollow 1-3/8" front sway bar since it fits like a glove. Use quality boxed rear control arms and HNR rear bar. Throw some good 16 or 17" wheels and tires and QA1 adjustable shocks and you are in good shape.
Conrad

 

[GoldHawg]

That's what I was initially leaning toward, but I've been swayed by all the talk of significant bumpsteer (I admit I don't really know what this is, but it sounds bad!!) w/that setup. And the SCC UCAs did look pretty snazzy.

Maybe you all will chime in and tell me bumpsteer, schmumpster...don't worry about it!

 

[Hot Air]

I have never had a problem with bumpsteer with my TR. Bumpsteer is (negative) feedback through the steering wheel when going over a bump in the road.
Conrad

 

[Gary Wells]

I have never had a problem with bumpsteer with my TR. Bumpsteer is (negative) feedback through the steering wheel when going over a bump in the road.............Conrad

Not necessarily so: I have seen bumpsteer (bump steer) described as the toe-in change as the steering geometry changes from lower position to upper position. I think that it has more to do with the toe-in changing than it does to the feedback that you obtain from the steering wheel.