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wastegate puck stuck...again!!

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If it was the heat of a WOT pass causing it to stick it would be in the open position.

in your case use a "P" drill on the bushing and leave some end clearance and you should be fine.

Stainless is very malleable so it is very easy to make it out of round. the last DP i made i made the bushing go out of round installing it with a rubber dead blow and had to ream it.

if it is the carbon build up that is causing the shaft to bind one thing that can be done is to take a cut off wheel and make a small groove in the shaft. this also helps in the cleaning between the shaft and the bushing. every time it opens soot will collect in the groove and then be blown out by the pressure in the exhaust. it is not enough leak to notice but does in extreme cases help in cleaning.

Although not the case here, we have seen where the puck does get cocked inside the hole and causes it to not close. To make sure this does not happen always leave 1/8" sealing surface on the short swing side of the WG puck so the puck will hit the face of the turbine housing and slide up so the whole puck can seal. I hope i described this ok.

oh, one more thing i just thought of. once in a while the puck arm to shaft weld will taper onto the shaft. make sure when you pull the puck toward the bushing it swings as freely as it does when not against the face of the bushing.
 
If I were to cut off the weld from arm to shaft and do whatever. Will there be enough room left to weld the arm back to the shaft and allow enough room for the shaft to float?
 
If I were to cut off the weld from arm to shaft and do whatever. Will there be enough room left to weld the arm back to the shaft and allow enough room for the shaft to float?

i drilled mine back off


jason
yes stuck in open position , but not full open so it spooled slow as dog s*** but also wouldnt move out completely to limit boost ,
it was the lousy spool up after the initial spool to boost that prompted the car to come to me for repair which i found was the atr puck sticking open

if the car was allowed to cool it would close and and spool just fine (on the first attempt) , but after initial lift of puck it would hang up and there went the spoolup and the contro;l
 
If I were to cut off the weld from arm to shaft and do whatever. Will there be enough room left to weld the arm back to the shaft and allow enough room for the shaft to float?

Yes i think so. just grind down the weld then use a punch to punch it apart. the pin can be down in the hole on the lever arm when you weld it.
 
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