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Water Pump removal

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copo

Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
302
On my '87 GN my water pump is leaking in between the back plate of the water pump. How many bolts hold this pump?

How do I remove the WP pulley bolts without the belt turning, they are on pretty tight (this isn't a left hand thread is it)? Can I jam something in between a pulley?

I've never seen a pump like this before except on the GN. Can I remove the back plate and silcone the plate back on if that's where it's leaking from or buy a new one? I have 150k on the car.

thx in advance Mark
 
The pump is standard issue v6. If you're going thru the trouble to get it off, you may as well put on a new one. I put on a AZ lifetime for about 17.00. Be prepared to clean the mating surface and put sealant on some of the bolts that go all the way into the water channel. Other than getting all the crap out of the way, it was a pretty easy job. I think we wedged a big screwdriver against the shaft/bolts to remove the pulley.
 
I just put a pump on mine a few weeks back. If you have access to an air ratchet then the bolts are no problem. I did not. What I remember doing was to put the socket on the bolt and hit the ratchet with a small hammer. They are not left hand threads. Counterclockwise to remove. I believe there are 9-10 bolts, some long, some short, and a few alignment holes. It's not really a hard job, just make sure you keep track of which bolts go where. What I did was to take each bolt that I removed and place them in the corresponding hole in the new pump. When I got the old one off, transfer the bolts, put the new pump on, and start putting the bolts back in. The worst part of the job is scraping the old gasket off. I got a new water pump from Advance Auto. I think it was $19.95. You can get a remanufactored one for $14.95 plus your core. Being so cheap I would replace the pump instead of pulling it and siliconing the back. BTW, the new pump comes with a gasket so no need to buy one....like I did. Hope this helps.
 
IF YOU CAN BORROW AN IMPACT OR AIR RATCHET, YOU CAN GET THOSE PULLEY BOLTS RIGHT OFF WITHOUT IT TURNING. WHAT i DID, WAS BEND UP AN OLD WRENCH SO THAT IT SAT ON ONE OF THE BOLTS IN THE WATER PUMP PULLEY, AND ALSO ON ONE BOLT ON THE CRANK PULLEY AT THE SAME TIME. THIS WILL "FREEZE" BOTH PULLEYS SO YOU CAN GET THE REST OF THE BOLTS OUT.
 
I finally got it off, with the pulley still attached. Boy those lower bolts were a bitch. I ended up putting the water pump end where the pulley slides on into a vise and heated the bolts and they came loose. The pump gasket was where the leak was.
I'm so used to 350 pumps, this was may 1st experience with an aluminum that separates from the aluminum mate on the block. thx
 
I didn't use any on mine. No leaks. Some use just enough to hold the gasket in place for the re-install, but I found just placing the gasket on the mounting tabs for the alignment holes will hold the gasket right where you need it w/o sealants. I think that is more of the person's own preference. I personally have replaced the pump more than once with no sealant and no leaks.
 
One more thing. Inorder to have no water/antifreeze in the long bolt holes, did you jack up the rear for a bit to drain the water then jack up the front while installing the pump so the thread sealant can make a better seal?
 
Without gakset sealer it leaked from the bottom area. At least it was easier doing the job the 2nd time. I hope it doesn't leak with sealer or I'll freak.
 
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