MeanBuicks
Scaring the neighbors!
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 3,658
The input drum is the long aluminum drum containing the input shaft. The steel drum that works with the band is the Reverse Input Drum.
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SignUp Now!Originally posted by mrvette72
Alan, guys, I appreciate very much your taking the time to answer my amateur questions...
OK, so i have to move the lever for full throttle high speed work...ok...
second off, about adjusting that throttle cable...the way I have been doing it is putting max tight on the cable, then forcing open the throttoe body to WOT, and letting the tranny kickdown click itself into position...
frankly, I don't care to run at high line pressures, but if that' way it's designed....well ok, I suppose...still wonder about blocking the accumulators, and relaxing the throttle cable a bit....
this input drum you talked about above...
which one is that on the diagram??? is it the huge one with the band around it??? thought it was steel, have to look again maybe next time...
or is it another one inside..???
any clues as to what the steel in the pan is from??? could it reasonable be the clutch internal teeth that fit around that internal drum...and any suggesitions for getting that assy in place a bit easier???
GENE
Originally posted by mrvette72
6pak, well the unit is out of a more normal car or truck...aux valve body 'late 87 unit...
I did use a b29?? what you said converter, from Mitchell tranny supply here in Jax Florida...
it's a dayco?? think so...
I never touched the band servo..unknown...
it has a Superior shift kit in it...
seems all thestuff was done correctly to thevalve body...far as I can tell from the installation direction I got from the builder...
I did buy a TV /sleeve that was supposed to cure the 3-4 upshift blues at WOT...it did NOTHING>...waste of ~50 bux.....
accumulator springs are same as what superior color coded them to be...
I think from looking closely and reading close, the complete superior kit was installed....
700r4 HP kit....one black/white paper instruction sheet from 5 years ago....
I remember playing with the governor assy 5 years ago to get it right, shifted WAY too early...now it's fine...too late sometimes at light neighborhood driving....
GENE
Originally posted by mrvette72
Alan, haha..thanks for the reassurance on that installation those clutches made me feel so incompetant, frustrating as hell, wonder if I tore them up, tried not to...
so you think it's old converter??? interesting..I thought it might have been gears or sprags....
the old converter had slop of about 600 some odd rpm's when in 4th at 80 mph and unlocked...
the new one is about 1/2 of that much tighter, I like it better....another mistake on original build up...
the clutches I used in the 3/4 pack this time around were alto reds...that's about all Iknow..seem to fit what's been described..and was told they were best going...
now another interesting point, the interleaving steels seems very un uniform in finish...black streaks and silver places on the surface...as if they were not finished correctly, but I thought maybe that's normal...so I left them in place...
now I read that you all seem to be refinishing the steels for better contact...wonder if tha't a problem...should I get new one's and do that next time....for some reason I have NO conficence this will last all that long, so I am trying to gather as much intelligent information as I can prior to the next repair....
another thing, I"m not sure about just who is the best tranny guy here in Jax Fl....and taking it somewhere else to have another problem is not something I want to do...
my old tranny guys up north years ago was ATI, first owned by Jim Beatty of some local converter fame...and then Sherman Slye for years afterwards...the retail end that is...
GENE