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Weld Wheel's keep falling off...

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My prostars had thick washers under the lugs never had a loosening problem.
The washers had "THIS SIDE TOWARDS WHEEL" stamped into one side.
 
The lug nuts might be bottoming out, it is hard to tell, when I tighten it seems tight, but then when the wheel flexes it might come loose, but not loose enough to tell...i dont know...but I am going to try torquing the wheels slowly and in stages, which I did, but not with the torque wrench, just the gun...and I am going to do this with the gm 3 inch studs and open ended lug nuts as soon as they come in...Like I said, this is just weird to me... I have mounted hundreds of wheels and this is all new to me...I hope I don't have to do this every 1,000 miles as someone stated...I will constantly be scared of my wheels falling off...but then again, after this experience I will probably check them often anyways...I am going to put some special glue as well for extra strength...( I can still take off the wheels with this). Thanks for all the help guys! I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
wheels

i have a set of weld drag lites on my car for over a yr and i have never had a problem with the lugs getting loose. i torque them down to 80-85 ft lbs. and i have the stock lug studs. and i use the small washers also behind the lugs.
 
DynamicGN said:
The lug nuts might be bottoming out, it is hard to tell, when I tighten it seems tight, but then when the wheel flexes it might come loose, but not loose enough to tell...i dont know...but I am going to try torquing the wheels slowly and in stages, which I did, but not with the torque wrench, just the gun...and I am going to do this with the gm 3 inch studs and open ended lug nuts as soon as they come in...Like I said, this is just weird to me... I have mounted hundreds of wheels and this is all new to me...I hope I don't have to do this every 1,000 miles as someone stated...I will constantly be scared of my wheels falling off...but then again, after this experience I will probably check them often anyways...I am going to put some special glue as well for extra strength...( I can still take off the wheels with this). Thanks for all the help guys! I'll let you know how it turns out.

I was wondering if he was using the correct washers? I have had Welds on cars since they first came out...and I have never had a problem with them loosening up.
 
Make sure you have the metric lug nuts. When I bought mine the goomba who put them on used a standard size lug nut. They held on for a while but eventually started falling off. The wheels did the same thing you described.
 
WHen you brought up the standard lug nut point, I was like "THATS IT!"...but to no avail, the lug nuts are metric and I am using the correct washers...they are also facing the right way... The 3 inch studs are on back order till next week, but I think I should be ok. After torquing the lug nuts slowly to the exact specs I havent had a problem. But then again I havent driven much. Before I just torqued them without taking the wheel off. I guess you just have to be extra cautious when installing these wheels, and it has to be done perfect. I'll keep you guys posted until I am sure I solved this. Again, thanks for all the input.
 
Just an update for anyone else that might have this problem in the future...The answer might not be the 3 inch studs with open ended lug nuts, but i think it's the safest. Just be sure which ever way you go, make sure the lug nuts don't bottom out and tighten all the lug nuts in a star pattern very slowly, increasing torque each time around until you reach specs...I did 100 pounds. The wheels are light and do flex. I have driven the car enough now to finally feel like the wheels aren't going to fall off. I will check them every 1,000 miles or so. Thanks alot guys.
 
Well, here I go again. Everybody stuck with Welds is in denial. Like I said, they don't stay on, no matter what you do - studs, washers, nuts, torque this, torque that. So good luck torquing them every few days for as long as you're willing to put up with them.

strike
 
strikeeagle said:
Well, here I go again. Everybody stuck with Welds is in denial. Like I said, they don't stay on, no matter what you do - studs, washers, nuts, torque this, torque that. So good luck torquing them every few days for as long as you're willing to put up with them.

strike

Oh whatever I've had these wheels for over a year I've had no problems whatsoever so I don't want to hear no **** about being in denial, you don't like em don't run em.
 
Slow91z said:
Oh whatever I've had these wheels for over a year I've had no problems whatsoever so I don't want to hear no **** about being in denial, you don't like em don't run em.

Deny, deny, deny...

strike

:)
 
bishir said:
FWIW, the last wheels I had that made the dreaded clicking sound turned out to be the center caps!


I had the same problem with my centre caps. Took the wheels off and duct taped them to the wheel ( from the inside ) to hold them tight. No more clicking !! Had them on for 5 years now. :) :cool: ;)
 
DynamicGN said:
Well almost...My father owns a tire/mechanic shop, I mounted these wheels and tires myself, they are brand new prostars. I am sure I tightened them and a few blocks down the road, i felt a wobbling sensation in the front, I had lost 2 bolts and both front wheels were barely hanging on, all the bolts were loose. So I tightened them right there on the side of the road with a cross wrench, went back to the shop, checked everything out and tightned them again with the air gun...1 day later...few miles down, same thing on one side...this in only happening in the front. I have mounted many many tires and wheels on customer cars and what not for 10 years but I have never seen anything like this. At first I thought i did something wrong, but this is just weird. I have 15x7's in the front with 3.5 BS and 215/65/15's. 15x 8 3.5 BS in the back with 275/60/15's. The bolts are straight from weld, 12x 1.50..I do not have the 3 inch long studs. Any insight???? Has this ever happened to anyone or am I loosing my mind. Any info on the exact pounds of torque to tighten these things...


Air guns ( impact wrenches ) are perhaps OK for assembly lines and Flat Rate shops, but they definately have no place near aluminum or magnesium wheels.

Also, you can only know for sure if the wheel's lugnuts are tightened to the correct specs, by using a properly calibrated TORQUE WRENCH !
 
OldTimer is right on the money! Had weld stars on one of my cars since they first came out, never a problem!!! They make the creaking noise when pushing in the staging lanes,but never a problem!! Check every thing & don't use air tools on alu mags!!!!!!!!!
 
I only used the air gun the first time I put them on, I did not use one this time, I tightened with a torque wrench...I will give these wheels the TLC they need until it drives me crazy I guess, but so far so good, at least after the first headache...I might be in denial, but I like em'... ;)
 
if i am not mistaken those take the mag style lug nut(goes thru the wheel)right? make sure that the lug nut doesnt bottom out on the rotor/hub before tightening the wheel. if the shank on the lugnut bottoms out,the lugnut will be tight but the wheel will not be. just something to check. i had a set of wheels where i had grind a little bit off of the lug nut for them tighten properly. easy way to check is to take the wheel off and put the lugnut through the hole. if it sticks out past the backside of the mounting surface then that is probably your problem. good luck, jeremy

also.... i always use antiseize on my wheel studs. how can you get a proper torque spec when trying to torque dry threads?? i know that will stir the $hit pot! :D

I agree with all of the above statements 100%. I worked for Discount Tire for 6 years and we used to use anti-sieze on all the "nice" cars when we installed aftermarket wheels. I've run Weld Draglies and ProStars with anti-sieze on the stock studs and with the Weld brand open end lugnuts with zero problems (except for that ANNOYING clicking!). Never had any lugnuts back off. Always torqued them in a star pattern, first to 80 ft. lbs then back through the star pattern and run them up to 100 ft. lbs.

HTH
Rob
 
Pro Star clicking. Be sure to check the back side spokes for hairline cracking. Don't ask me how I know. Just check every so often.

Steve
 
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