What gain on alky? ET MPH "RAZOR"
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Buicks dont make the best bracket cars. :redface:
So if your asking leaving the car at 14-15 PSI touching nothing but adding alky.. car will slow down. Unless its currently lean and the alcohol brings you where you want to be air fuel wise.
Alcohol is used to suppress knock. If you dont have any knock, then you dont need an alcohol inj system.
If you plan on turning up the boost, then you will start to see more knock.. then the alcohol can be used to clean that up.
Granted most cars at the same boost level will see an increase of 5% power. So there will be a gain.. but not overwhelming like if you cranked the boost up and now used the alcohol to suppress the knock.
So if your asking leaving the car at 14-15 PSI touching nothing but adding alky.. car will slow down. Unless its currently lean and the alcohol brings you where you want to be air fuel wise.
Alcohol is used to suppress knock. If you dont have any knock, then you dont need an alcohol inj system.
If you plan on turning up the boost, then you will start to see more knock.. then the alcohol can be used to clean that up.
Granted most cars at the same boost level will see an increase of 5% power. So there will be a gain.. but not overwhelming like if you cranked the boost up and now used the alcohol to suppress the knock.
Fastest car with a stock turbo ran 11.37, dutt neck IC as well. 42 lb inj.
Your use of the word "scanner" concerns me. Is it a scanmaster? In other words how you monitor knock.
I dont see updated fuel pump/hot wire, 160 thermo, and your chip has got to go. And almost forgot valve springs. Get an alky chip from Eric Marshall or an extender from Full Throttle.
Then we have street tires listed and you want consistency..Once you turn the boost up.. those tires are gonna melt.
With a good 60 foot(1.6-1.7), boost in the 22-24 PSI range, running 11:0 air fuel, 23-24 degree timings, car should run low 12's at 108-109. If the motor is weak.. bad tuning.. bad tires.. etc.. cranking the boost may net you zero ET improvement. You will increase MPH tho.
Want 11's.. crank the boost past 25 PSI.. and learn to dial it in. Its been done by many here.
I think you have some stuff to do before you jump into cranking up the boost with alky. Running higher boost will yield a noticable improvement seat of the pants. And yes it will pickup more at the track.
A lot of variables with a car thats 20 years old. Hope I covered the basics. There is no majic wand.. you need to work your way up..
Your use of the word "scanner" concerns me. Is it a scanmaster? In other words how you monitor knock.
I dont see updated fuel pump/hot wire, 160 thermo, and your chip has got to go. And almost forgot valve springs. Get an alky chip from Eric Marshall or an extender from Full Throttle.
Then we have street tires listed and you want consistency..Once you turn the boost up.. those tires are gonna melt.
With a good 60 foot(1.6-1.7), boost in the 22-24 PSI range, running 11:0 air fuel, 23-24 degree timings, car should run low 12's at 108-109. If the motor is weak.. bad tuning.. bad tires.. etc.. cranking the boost may net you zero ET improvement. You will increase MPH tho.
Want 11's.. crank the boost past 25 PSI.. and learn to dial it in. Its been done by many here.
I think you have some stuff to do before you jump into cranking up the boost with alky. Running higher boost will yield a noticable improvement seat of the pants. And yes it will pickup more at the track.
A lot of variables with a car thats 20 years old. Hope I covered the basics. There is no majic wand.. you need to work your way up..
.scanner does ok i can run a movie on it to see how knock goes.thanksall the info.The problem with scanners is you'll record when you blow the head gasket or worse as you cant be looking at the data as your racing. The faster the car gets the harder it becomes.
A knock guage or visual to show knock is whats typically used. So in the middle of a run you have an early warning system. Let alone your scanner may not jive with normal numbers we all use to communicate issues on these cars.
Your fairly new tuning one of these cars, this is obvious. All I can do is show you what is typical and has been the easiest for the majority of us. What can be done is different from what is typically done.. hope you can understand.
Not knowing what timing your running, or racing your car with a questionable chip is foolish. It is a sure fire way to get real good with a TQ wrench. Has nothing to do with being old school.. there are some old chips I still love.. but knowing there is better for cheap's'.. why.
Its sad when someone hurts their motor and then the shoulda/coulda/woulda comes up. At this point your $100's ahead. But turn the boost up with questionable stuff.. that will disappear quickly. Not hard to burn a hole on a turbo motor.. your just a few twists of a rod away.
HTH
A knock guage or visual to show knock is whats typically used. So in the middle of a run you have an early warning system. Let alone your scanner may not jive with normal numbers we all use to communicate issues on these cars.
Your fairly new tuning one of these cars, this is obvious. All I can do is show you what is typical and has been the easiest for the majority of us. What can be done is different from what is typically done.. hope you can understand.
Not knowing what timing your running, or racing your car with a questionable chip is foolish. It is a sure fire way to get real good with a TQ wrench. Has nothing to do with being old school.. there are some old chips I still love.. but knowing there is better for cheap's'.. why.
Its sad when someone hurts their motor and then the shoulda/coulda/woulda comes up. At this point your $100's ahead. But turn the boost up with questionable stuff.. that will disappear quickly. Not hard to burn a hole on a turbo motor.. your just a few twists of a rod away.
HTH
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