What Horsepower is best for a street-car?
- Thread starter mach.80
- Start date
So, with that said, what hp # for my set up should I shoot for?
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2002
This guy said it best.
Years ago, in a Road and Track interview, the host proclaimed, "Horse power is good! More horse power is better! But, too much horse power is simply sensational!"
Any questions?
Years ago, in a Road and Track interview, the host proclaimed, "Horse power is good! More horse power is better! But, too much horse power is simply sensational!"
Any questions?
Sums it up!
Nuf said.
Years ago, in a Road and Track interview, the host proclaimed, "Horse power is good! More horse power is better! But, too much horse power is simply sensational!"
Any questions?
Nuf said.
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
I'd start getting the current power you to have to hook, if that means MT Street Drags or ditching that rim size than so be it. From there it's all about E.T., you can say I dyno 400Hp 500Tq but if the car only turns a 12.2 than it's irrelevant since guys on stock turbo's are doing that with much less power.
Hooking first, power second.
Hooking first, power second.
^^ I aggree... somewhere in the 500 crank HP range is perfect for a street car that can still be driven, after that things start to need attention too often and the comfort factor goes out the window too.
It's not a GN, but my Chevy II had a 533hp pump gas 383 motor in it prior to the new setup and was perfect commuter/street race car. I ran it around on M&H G60x15's everyday and I never got beat with that combo. It hooked like a MoFo and often took down 750cc crotch rockets because it launched so well and had enough HP to keep it out front. At the track on pump gas it would consistently run 11.20's at 123-125mph.
The new setup was supposed to be an improvement, but in many ways it is a HUGE step backward. The new motor makes 687hp but needs race gas 100% of the time. It's not even close to being docile enough to drive back and forth to work like the old setup was, and the fun factor is basically gone because of the overall crudeness of the entire package.
I know that a turbo car can be setup to operate more mildly and still make 600hp, but at some point it becomes too much to maintain as a driver. just my $.02
It's not a GN, but my Chevy II had a 533hp pump gas 383 motor in it prior to the new setup and was perfect commuter/street race car. I ran it around on M&H G60x15's everyday and I never got beat with that combo. It hooked like a MoFo and often took down 750cc crotch rockets because it launched so well and had enough HP to keep it out front. At the track on pump gas it would consistently run 11.20's at 123-125mph.
The new setup was supposed to be an improvement, but in many ways it is a HUGE step backward. The new motor makes 687hp but needs race gas 100% of the time. It's not even close to being docile enough to drive back and forth to work like the old setup was, and the fun factor is basically gone because of the overall crudeness of the entire package.
I know that a turbo car can be setup to operate more mildly and still make 600hp, but at some point it becomes too much to maintain as a driver. just my $.02
It all depends on your combo and electronics. I dont think ill have a problem handling my new stock block (will be at least 650whp) or my stage 2 (will be at least 780whp on a mild tune). I can simply control the hit with the AMS and have the XFI help a lot with the traction control ability. Keep in mind the car has to have some traction or non of the above will help. Suspension work, ballast, and at least some DR's.
For a street car. What is the best shock? I like a taut bwm/audi feel. Like I said before I like to bend corners too. It's got to be an well rounded car.
Current setup and plans listed in first post.
Bilstien(which one)
qa1
verishock
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I've never seen a taut 22/23 year old BMW or Audi, most are in the boneyards by then.
I think the Bilsteins only come in one flavor for our cars and are a very good shock for a daily driver and handle well and ride okay.
You better do all the body bushings and add the extras (GNX) if possible, if you want a really taut car, and do all the body braces as well.
HR parts motor mount for the drivers side too, and their rear swaybar is a good unit.
Front probably a hollow F body one.
I personally wouldn't waste all those parts on a hot air car unless it had an intercooler conversion and higher HP.
Good luck.
I think the Bilsteins only come in one flavor for our cars and are a very good shock for a daily driver and handle well and ride okay.
You better do all the body bushings and add the extras (GNX) if possible, if you want a really taut car, and do all the body braces as well.
HR parts motor mount for the drivers side too, and their rear swaybar is a good unit.
Front probably a hollow F body one.
I personally wouldn't waste all those parts on a hot air car unless it had an intercooler conversion and higher HP.
Good luck.
Similar threads
