What mods to be made before install stock trans?

[bry593]

I recently acquired a low milage '87 SS trans.

What mods should I perform now (while its out of the car) to extend the life of this transmission.

I noticed that the stator support has wear on the spline flanks. I thought I might pull the pump and press in a new treated support. While I have this apart, should I modify the PR spring or valve? Should I change the vane rings to HD? Can I just change the rings, or do I need the whole shabang?

The factory valve body calibration should shift well as is, but I am interested in hearing any suggestions that will help the trans last longer. Note that I have an unused transgo kit, but based on responses in this forum, thought I might do just as well with the factory calibration.

TIA,
Bry593

 

[bry593]

Here's a list of what I plan to add/change

I've scoured the archives and have also read: Bruce's "Making the 2004R Live", Mike's 2004R rebuild, and the ATSG manual. Based on all of this info, this is what I have decided as the Mods to my 50K mile CZ trans:

.5" TV Boost Valve
Std Superior Shift Correction Kit
Hardened Stator Support

Questions:
1. Should I disassemble the pump and drill out the oil return holes to 5/16".
2. Can I just add new HD rings to my factory pump, or should I replace the whole thing with a compete 13 vain setup?
3. Will I need a press to change the stator support?
4. Are there any parts of the kit I should leave out?

Note: This trans is in a mid-13, light bodied car.

Bry593

 

[MeanBuicks]

1. Not a bad idea. It may very well save you a headache down the road.
2. As long as the rotor & vanes are not worn/damaged, you can reuse those along with the HD rings. 13-vane pump is not necessary. If replacement is called for, a new 7- or 10-vane assy. will do just fine.
3. A small benchtop arbor press works well.
4. I' let someone else advise on that.
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[bry593]

Obviously good advice...

Obviously good advice, Bruce told me the same thing.....

My preference is for a HD shift that prolongs the life of the trans, do I need a kit at all or is the factory calibration okay?

And, will the factory CZ spring work with the .5" valve, or would I need to GM me a BR spring?

Bry593

 

[bry593]

Additional mods and summary.....

For any of you who may be searching for this info in the future:

1. It was suggested that I also replace the factory low/reverse boost valve with the larger .3" valve. This will make 1-2 shift a little snappier, but more importantly, will eliminate the delay when shifting to reverse.

2. Another recomendation is drilling the orifice cup plug of the stator dowel pin. This hole should be drilled to .040" to increase lube to the pump washer.

3. Another tip: after drilling the oil fluid passages 5/16", be sure to take a flat, knife hone and lightly stone the burrs away. Otherwise, a leak could develop killing pump pressure.

4. As for using a shift kit, it was recommended that the TV limit valve, MTV up and MTV down springs be left stock.

5. Before assembling, install a new pump bushing and seal retained with green (semi-removable) loctite.

By the way, removing the pump stator is a piece of cake. Just hold the pump body firmly in your hands and bounce the stator shaft on a block of wood. You don't have to get rough with it at all.

To recap, the mods to a mild stock trans are:
1. Drill seal oil passages to 5/16"
2. Drill stator dowel pin plug to .040"
3. .3" Reverse Boost Valve
4. .5" TV Boost Valve (not necessary, but can use stiffer spring if you get a shift kit)
5. HD pump rings
6. New pump bushing and seal retained with green loctite
7. Hardened stator support
8. Shift improvement kit (don't mess with TV limit, MTV up or down)

I hope this info consolidated in one thread will help others. I know I spent considerable time researching it.

Thanks to all who have shared their knowledge.

Bry593