What stall is my converter?

[Medbull]

I have an Art Carr 9" non lock converter. The part number on it is 16930. As you can see below my 60ft times are crap. I have only had this combo to the track one weekend since it was all put together, so I'm sure I could improve on it a little. But just everyday street driving, if I get on it, I have some pretty serious lag.
With my old combo: te60, stock heads,blue tops, and drag radials I cut a best 60 of 1.66.
I am now running all of these new goodies, on slicks, and my 60 ft stinks.

I thought I might pull the tranny tommorow and sent the converter off for a higher stall. Thought I would try to ID this thing first and get a few thoughts from everyone.

Thanks for any help you can throw my way.

 

[Unsafe6]

That part # should be a 3200 stall.

 

[Medbull]

Any idea what a good stall would be for my combo?

 

[Unsafe6]

That converter should spool the 45, most people use a 3200-3400 I think. May want to look for some leaks or to possibly the chip program.

 

[Medbull]

Thanks for the help! I know that I have a D/S header exh. leak where the header meets up with the head, that will be fixed next week. Could a leak like that cause a pretty good amount of lag?

 

[ijames]

Yes, a good sized exhaust leak can kill spoolup. I have the two-piece ATR crossover with a band clamp on the joint, and when the clamp got loose and slid to the side it literally added a second to my time-to-10 psi boost (2.5 seconds vs 1.5 seconds according to DirectScan). There are lots of ways people measure stall speed. Simplest is to foot brake up to zero psi boost and record that rpm. Seems to be fairly reproducible across several car combos, more so than doing it at higher boosts, but usually gives a number lower than the manufacturers rating. Another way, if you have DirectScan, is to set the ebrake and hold the foot brake hard, then stomp the gas from a dead idle while recording and hold it til the tires break loose. Look at the rpm trace in scope mode and you should see a flat line at idle pre-stomp, a sharp rise when you hit it, then it will flatten out again briefly at the stall speed, then rise on up as the power builds and the tires spin. The trace may not go horizontal at the stall speed, but it will at least show a drop and in the slope, and you can eyeball the rpm halfway between the two slope changes. This is the method TurboBob Bob Bailey likes best, and he's compared several converters (go back to the old Yank thread in this forum if you want to see several comparison numbers).