what went wrong!!!!!!! pinched steel caps

Was real curious why the cam was wearing into the front of the block????..and how this could happen... I am actually having this problem with my motor, and my combo is alot like yours..... So any HELP would be greatly appreciated......

Sorry if I miss your thread up at all..........
 
Originally posted by turbodan1
Was real curious why the cam was wearing into the front of the block????..and how this could happen... I am actually having this problem with my motor, and my combo is alot like yours..... So any HELP would be greatly appreciated......

Sorry if I miss your thread up at all..........

Cam wear into the front of the block is usually caused by high volume/high pressure oil pump. If anyone goes this route I'd suggest a needle brg thrust washer be installed. After that, you will get into the cam gear/oil pump drive sprockets wearing prematurely. I have yet to figure out how to solve that problem.
 
Ya Im not sure how to fixes this problem either, and I really dont fully understand how this could happen..... It has a brand new stock front cover, with a high volume pump in it..... the guy I bought the cam from said it was be/c the cam had to much end play... its is a roller set up 214/214..... he said that I need to shim the cam button to tighten up the end play, and it wont hit the block no more..... but my biggest question is.... what is suppose to stop the cam from hitting the front of the motor, if I shim the button...it seems like it would push the cam further back towards the block???

Thank You for your help...Turbo1dr
 
Originally posted by turbodan1
Ya Im not sure how to fixes this problem either, and I really dont fully understand how this could happen..... It has a brand new stock front cover, with a high volume pump in it..... the guy I bought the cam from said it was be/c the cam had to much end play... its is a roller set up 214/214..... he said that I need to shim the cam button to tighten up the end play, and it wont hit the block no more..... but my biggest question is.... what is suppose to stop the cam from hitting the front of the motor, if I shim the button...it seems like it would push the cam further back towards the block???

Thank You for your help...Turbo1dr

If it is a billet cam, it must have a thrust system intalled, if not, it will wear the block out in short order, nature of the beast!
 
Very true EightSecV6. Even if you do put a roller thrust between the block and the cam you still have the oil pump drive gears wearing out from turning a HV pump.

As a solution, I am pondering the thought of grafting the lower part of a 86-87 front wheel drive timing cover and oil pump to the upper section of the regular Turbo Regal front cover. This will get rid of the stress that a HV pump puts on the cam sensor gears and eliminate thrust on the cam towards the block. This way, the crank is turning the oil pump which is taking stress away from the timing chain having to turn all this stuff.

May be easier said then done!
 
Bob Hinson has the late model cover with the Gerotor oli pump on his car,Bobtempest is his name here
 
Originally posted by Turbo1dr
Very true EightSecV6. Even if you do put a roller thrust between the block and the cam you still have the oil pump drive gears wearing out from turning a HV pump.


I have not found that to be the case
 
Originally posted by EightSecV6
I have not found that to be the case

If I'm reading it properly, what you're saying is the roller thrust washer takes away enough friction from the cam rubbing the front of the block to virtually get rid of oil pump drive gear wear?

I thought about that and that doesn't seem possible since you're not getting rid of the thrust that the oil pump is putting on the two gears of the cam/cam sensor. Instead, it's just eliminating the wear that occurs at the front of the block that the HV pump puts on it.
 
Originally posted by Turbo1dr
If I'm reading it properly, what you're saying is the roller thrust washer takes away enough friction from the cam rubbing the front of the block to virtually get rid of oil pump drive gear wear?

I thought about that and that doesn't seem possible since you're not getting rid of the thrust that the oil pump is putting on the two gears of the cam/cam sensor. Instead, it's just eliminating the wear that occurs at the front of the block that the HV pump puts on it.

No, what I am saying is I use loose clearances and High volume oil pumps on all of our performance builds and I have NEVER had a hyd. flat tappet or ductile roller wear the block in the front, there is enough surface area on the cam to prevent this and an adequate supply of oil from the front cam bearing to keep a good film of lubricant on the surface.
This is not the case with a billet cam core and it MUST have a thrust plate.
 
So basically shim it to the correct clearence and the cam should not wear into the front of the block if its not a billet cam...and if it is a billet cam you need a thrust system to stop it from wearing into the front of the block.....good thing my cam is not a billet cam........
 
Bill- what do you consider "loose" clearances? By the way i believe im gonna have you do my next short block rebuild. thanks
 
Originally posted by 49-blues
Bill- what do you consider "loose" clearances? By the way i believe im gonna have you do my next short block rebuild. thanks
 
Originally posted by 1FASTV6

It depends alot on the build or intent.....On high RPM stage 2 engines making serious HP, I set them to nearly .003 on the rods and mains. Oil pressure is not nearly as critical as flow and journal roundness
 
Originally posted by Turbo1dr
Very true EightSecV6. Even if you do put a roller thrust between the block and the cam you still have the oil pump drive gears wearing out from turning a HV pump.

As a solution, I am pondering the thought of grafting the lower part of a 86-87 front wheel drive timing cover and oil pump to the upper section of the regular Turbo Regal front cover. This will get rid of the stress that a HV pump puts on the cam sensor gears and eliminate thrust on the cam towards the block. This way, the crank is turning the oil pump which is taking stress away from the timing chain having to turn all this stuff.

May be easier said then done!

Kenall Frederick did this as well in his engine. From what I saw in pics, he cut the 2, and grafted them together via tig welding
 
WRONG BUILDER, CAPS TOO FAR GONE TO TELL ANYTHING, BUT ALL SPUN MAINS ONLY!!!! WITH A LINE BORE DONE FOR STEEL CAPS!!! OTHERWISE QUITE A FEW LITTLE MISTAKES SPOTTED THAT WERE DONE WRONG,
(expensive mistake) BUT ALL WILL BE DONE RITE THIS TIME BY BOBBY!!!
 
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