Whats needed to get rid of BigStuff3 and go back stock?

larry33kc said:
Title say's it all!!!!

I am tired of screwing around with this setup, wasting my time, and money I don't have (looking at getting laid off again). I can't get any support for this thing unless I have money flowing out my a$$.

I am tired of not being able to drive and enjoy my car. I can't even back it out of the garage to detail it, unless I want to push it.

I am tired of fouling plugs, and O2 sensors. It looks like it just fouled my 6th set of plugs at $26 for a set, and my 3rd O2 $130 apiece. And it will not run. And that's with about 50 miles driven, and idle time at the house.
Hell I can't even get it running long enough to get it to a local shop to spend $600 (which I don't have) to try and tune it here localy.

So I am done. What is envolved in going back to stock setup. I would like to stay with the speed density so I know a Translator in needed ( but which one), A modded ECM, and chip for my setup? Can I just get all the parts, IE new engine compartment harness, ECM, Translator (whatever would work for SD) and would it be a plug and play deal with the swap?
Will I be able to unplug all the stuff from the engine, and pull the harness complete for the BS3, and replace with the stock stuff?

Oh Ya I forgot to mention this how I got the car in the first place. The original owner had all this work done by a shop and some elders on this board who talked him into the BS3 insted of a Fast system then left him with a car that wouldn't run for crap. He then like me got frustrated and traded the car to me. And now I am going through the same thing he went through.


I just want to enjoy my car any help would be great. I really don't need any questions or advice about trying to keep or fix the system I have I AM DONE with it ,and have made up my mind to go back to stock computer setup. So I would like to focus on how to swap.

Thanks, Larry
Click to expand...

Larry, the car needs to be professionally tuned. I am not going to sit here and let you bash John Meaney and BigStuff 3 because you bought a car untuned and really screwed up. Could there be a wiring issue somewhere?? I did give you some help and I offered to tune your car for you but you need to fly me out there or bring the car here, you said you could not afford it. All the information is out there to tune your car yourself. Read the instructions and ask informed questions.

If this is too much for you to do then I don't blame you for switching back to the stock ECU but you can't sit here and blame a system because you don't know how to make it work!!!!!
 
It all comes down to the operator. If you don't understand the system what good is it?

The Tpro is more user friendly but can still leave you scratching you head. Again it comes down to the operator....

Your best bet for ease of use would be a stock ecm with a zo6 maf, gn specific translator and a late model chip. I like Bob Bailey's chips but Jay and Eric can also take care of you.

You can usually find a used harness for around $150

Need a ECM, translator, maf, chip and scanmaster.

ECM with mod $200
Translator $200
Chip $80-$100
Scanmaster $250
Maf sensor $150 or so
Harness $150-200

You looking at a easy g'note but the bs3 will sell for that all day long.
 
TurboBuRick said:
I like Bob Bailey's chips but Jay and Eric can also take care of you.
Click to expand...

I dont really do chips anymore. I dont even have my burner anywhere handy... probably couldnt put my hands on it if my life depended on it.
 
larry33kc said:
Title say's it all!!!!

I am tired of screwing around with this setup, wasting my time, and money I don't have (looking at getting laid off again). I can't get any support for this thing unless I have money flowing out my a$$.

I am tired of not being able to drive and enjoy my car. I can't even back it out of the garage to detail it, unless I want to push it.

I am tired of fouling plugs, and O2 sensors. It looks like it just fouled my 6th set of plugs at $26 for a set, and my 3rd O2 $130 apiece. And it will not run. And that's with about 50 miles driven, and idle time at the house.
Hell I can't even get it running long enough to get it to a local shop to spend $600 (which I don't have) to try and tune it here localy.

So I am done. What is envolved in going back to stock setup. I would like to stay with the speed density so I know a Translator in needed ( but which one), A modded ECM, and chip for my setup? Can I just get all the parts, IE new engine compartment harness, ECM, Translator (whatever would work for SD) and would it be a plug and play deal with the swap?
Will I be able to unplug all the stuff from the engine, and pull the harness complete for the BS3, and replace with the stock stuff?

Oh Ya I forgot to mention this how I got the car in the first place. The original owner had all this work done by a shop and some elders on this board who talked him into the BS3 insted of a Fast system then left him with a car that wouldn't run for crap. He then like me got frustrated and traded the car to me. And now I am going through the same thing he went through.


I just want to enjoy my car any help would be great. I really don't need any questions or advice about trying to keep or fix the system I have I AM DONE with it ,and have made up my mind to go back to stock computer setup. So I would like to focus on how to swap.

Thanks, Larry
Click to expand...
Very similar post to the one I posted many years ago! Almost to the "T" but mine was with the F.A.S.T system... Nothing wrong with either system but just too many people out there buying these stand alone set ups that think they need this to go FAST...They don't realize that your stock ECU has to be removed and now They have to do all the driveability tuning themselves..For any beginner the stock ECU is the best PERIOD and MANY have gone damn fast with them too!

I sold the F.A.S.T system I was talked into and turned right around and bought the T-Pro, Innovate W/B, Power logger, Scanmaster upgrade, and extender extreme chip for less than I sold the FAST set up for. Turbo Dave installed everything and tuned it within 5 days only and the car never ran better. It was a blessing selling the old FAST system and going to the T-Pro.

The main problem is the drive ability issues with the stand alone systems that require the removal of the factory ECU. It is too hard and time consuming for beginners to do or learn all that stuff just so they can enjoy their car..

Depending on what you will be doing with the car I recommend going back to the stock ECU, stock MAF, and a TT/Baily engineering chip for now and enjoy driving your car. Don't just stay S/D just because you have a 4" MAF pipe... Although the T-Pro is a bit easier to use it will still need to be dialed in by someone who knows what they are doing and will still need some learning of the basics at least.

Here is a list of both ways....Full throttle has all this stuff....


Speed Density route:
1) T-Pro
2) Innovate W/B (Possibly even use the one you already have)
3) Powerlogger
4) Stock ECU
5) Scan master
6) All the jumper harnesses


Stock route:
1) Stock ECU
2) Stock MAF
3) Narrow band o2
4) 2 1/2" MAF pipe
5) TT/BB chip
 
scot w. said:
Very similar post to the one I posted many years ago! Almost to the "T" but mine was with the F.A.S.T system... Nothing wrong with either system but just too many people out there buying these stand alone set ups that think they need this to go FAST.
Click to expand...

It doesnt help when you have vendors shoving them down peoples throats and putting them on 12 second cars. A vendor who used to sell my chips quit selling them because he said he'd rather sell people a FAST so they are more dependant on him. Great philosophy and way to take care of your customers.

Its not hard to go fast these days. There are so many parts and proven combinations, its a no brainer.
 
JayC said:
It doesnt help when you have vendors shoving them down peoples throats and putting them on 12 second cars. A vendor who used to sell my chips quit selling them because he said he'd rather sell people a FAST so they are more dependant on him. Great philosophy and way to take care of your customers.

Its not hard to go fast these days. There are so many parts and proven combinations, its a no brainer.
Click to expand...


This wouldn't be a vendor out on the east coast who likes orange would it be?? This reminds me of a thread he was involved with a while back saying the same thing.
 
Ted, first off I would like to thank you for the time you spent with me on the phone when I talked to you about this way back. But the tune you gave me to try, looked the same as the one I was running, and didn't help me. You told me to get a log when it was running, and warm, when I did (some time later because of fuel pump failure) you told me you couldn't do anything unless I wanted to bring it to you.

I am not sure where you got I was bashing John Meaney and BigStuff 3 who by the way wouldn't give me the time of day when I called to make sure the specs where right and get advice. Which I talked to you about. I never bashed either in my post just said I couldn't get help, couldn't get it tuned, unless I had money out my a$$ which I don't have.

I know the car is not tuned right that's how I got the car in the first place. I have read the manual many times and it makes no sense to me. When ever I have asked questions Like how to convert injectors from #'s to CC's ( which by the way I couldn't even get their converter to work on my computer from their website, Hell JM himself wouldn't even tell me how to do that on the phone when I called). I get that's about right when I tell them it is set at 820. I still have yet had someone tell me how to convert them to get the right number and so on .

Yes it is too much for me, I would love to learn how too use it, but as I said earlier couldn't get help, don't have the time or the money to mess with it any more. I have spent hours reading the manual over and over, typing Biggstuff3, BS3 into Goggle and reading everything that I can on it. Spent hours on the Bullet looking through all those post. Some things are clearer but not enough too help.

It is BS that you say my car is really screwed up because the tune is off, that was uncalled for. Could there be a wiring issue? sure. I have done all I am going to do with it. As I said in the first post I wasn't interested in your kind of post. I am done with this setup going back to the stock type setup.

TSM3089 I did see they was making videos for this, but they havent started a BS3 one yet and it is going to be a while before they get it done. I thought about getting the FAST video but fouled this set of plugs and O2, and I am about to get shut down at work and loose my job so I just said I am done.

To everyone else thanks for your help and comments.
 
Larry,
I hate to see you give up and throw more $$ at it. If you want send me your calibration file and I will take a look at it. It can't be that difficult unless you have an issue with the car. Have you checked idle spark adv with a timing light and verified it is correct and the crank offset is correct in the BS3? To get the car to idle you should be able to adjust the VE table cells up or down to get the AFR right so the car idles and doesn't foul out plugs. Have you checked idel fuel pressure and looked for vacuum leaks?

If you want to give it another try I am willing to help.
 
Old Clint Eastwood saying.. "A man has got to know his limitations"

Whether they are time or resources. Or both. The bottom line the car doesnt run/work except consume money and creates drama. The best solution is a stock computer, stockish chip(Turbotweak, FTS, etc), translator and LT1/LS1 sensor, run on a narrow band Denso(11 dollar at Rockauto), scanmaster, and a set of injectors no larger than 60's.

Quit throwing programmable stuff at the car that complicates it. Once you have a car running like it should and that situation gets old.. then go after complicating the electronics.

I'm in the process of taking a MAFPRO of a Buick for this same reason.. The new owner knows nothing about these cars and doesnt want complications.

You'll remember this post if you choose to go against it.. Been there done that.

The Best candidate for a FAST or BS3 is a properly running car. The worse is a brand new engine/combo with the hopes to sort it out with an inexperienced tuner.

Julio
 
I don't care what you put on the car if there is a problem it will still be there. Might as well try to figure out the problem first instead of throwing $$$ at it which may or may not fix the problem. I am willing to help and all that takes is some time.
 
turbobuick said:
I don't care what you put on the car if there is a problem it will still be there. Might as well try to figure out the problem first instead of throwing $$$ at it which may or may not fix the problem. I am willing to help and all that takes is some time.
Click to expand...

But a lot of this stuff is way easier for the average "Joe" to deal with using a scanmaster and chip. Like IAC, BLM(long term fueling/vacuum leaks), TPS, and not guessing how much injector PW it needs/ofset, etc.

My car has a FAST.. I do my own tuning.. but its not for everyone. Its like a Korean bride its taken some years learning to speak with her.

Glad your willing to help him.. good luck ;)
 
larry33kc said:
Ted, first off I would like to thank you for the time you spent with me on the phone when I talked to you about this way back. But the tune you gave me to try, looked the same as the one I was running, and didn't help me. You told me to get a log when it was running, and warm, when I did (some time later because of fuel pump failure) you told me you couldn't do anything unless I wanted to bring it to you.

I am not sure where you got I was bashing John Meaney and BigStuff 3 who by the way wouldn't give me the time of day when I called to make sure the specs where right and get advice. Which I talked to you about. I never bashed either in my post just said I couldn't get help, couldn't get it tuned, unless I had money out my a$$ which I don't have.

I know the car is not tuned right that's how I got the car in the first place. I have read the manual many times and it makes no sense to me. When ever I have asked questions Like how to convert injectors from #'s to CC's ( which by the way I couldn't even get their converter to work on my computer from their website, Hell JM himself wouldn't even tell me how to do that on the phone when I called). I get that's about right when I tell them it is set at 820. I still have yet had someone tell me how to convert them to get the right number and so on .

Yes it is too much for me, I would love to learn how too use it, but as I said earlier couldn't get help, don't have the time or the money to mess with it any more. I have spent hours reading the manual over and over, typing Biggstuff3, BS3 into Goggle and reading everything that I can on it. Spent hours on the Bullet looking through all those post. Some things are clearer but not enough too help.

It is BS that you say my car is really screwed up because the tune is off, that was uncalled for. Could there be a wiring issue? sure. I have done all I am going to do with it. As I said in the first post I wasn't interested in your kind of post. I am done with this setup going back to the stock type setup.

TSM3089 I did see they was making videos for this, but they havent started a BS3 one yet and it is going to be a while before they get it done. I thought about getting the FAST video but fouled this set of plugs and O2, and I am about to get shut down at work and loose my job so I just said I am done.

To everyone else thanks for your help and comments.
Click to expand...

turbobuick said:
Larry,
I hate to see you give up and throw more $$ at it. If you want send me your calibration file and I will take a look at it. It can't be that difficult unless you have an issue with the car. Have you checked idle spark adv with a timing light and verified it is correct and the crank offset is correct in the BS3? To get the car to idle you should be able to adjust the VE table cells up or down to get the AFR right so the car idles and doesn't foul out plugs. Have you checked idel fuel pressure and looked for vacuum leaks?

If you want to give it another try I am willing to help.
Click to expand...




X2

I would jump on that offer in a heart beat, as stated they maybe multiple issues and taking one out of the equation will make it much easier to solve them.
 
Razor said:
My car has a FAST.. I do my own tuning.. but its not for everyone. Its like a Korean bride its taken some years learning to speak with her.

Glad your willing to help him.. good luck ;)
Click to expand...

im still waiting for my car to love me long time.


to the original poster.


get the most basic, original, " translator+ ".....and get back to enjoying your car.
 
I have a Big Stuff 3

That I couldnt get to idle correctly for the longest time. It would run rich as could be no matter how low the idle numbers were on the VE table. Turns out one of my injectors has a problem. Swapped from 95s to 55s and adjusted the VE table accordingly and it runs like a champ. The drivability is getting better everytime I drive it and tweak it here and there. The overall concept is not that diificult to understand. I am far from a professional and I am getting a pretty good handle on it. There is a book by Greg Banish that really helped me understand the hows and whys of tuning it. Send me a copy of the BS3 file and I will look at it also for you. Although I cant say if I can help or not.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/19..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0X1FJHQD01PEHNDAY6PT
 
Jeremy,
Larry sent me his file and I believe I found the issue. He had 625 cc's in for the injector constant and is running 83# inj which should be 875cc according to Chucks handy dandy calculator. That would add about 30% more fuel and cause the problems he is having.

I also rescaled his axis tables and cleaned up the AFR and spark tables and shut the WBO2 off at idle. I have a dumb question though as I don't mess with BS3 that often. Where do you set the TPS idle and WOT values? Under hardware config it has some goofy EJET setting for TPS% 2-4 switch and 4-2, what is that for:confused: They have a 3% TPS thershold setting that indicates idle, is that it??

Also, I thought the ignition strategy was configurable in this system but I don't see anywhere to set that stuff up:confused:

Outside of the above everything else seems pretty basic and straight forward. The software is really basic and the transient and idle tables are REALLY basic. I don't see why I can't get him idling, running and driving without much of an issue as long as the car is healthy.
 
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