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Axle

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
153
I'm trying not to make this into a rant, but looks like this is what it's going to come out as, so bare with me.

Last summer, the wagon started making a squeaking noise that can only come from metal rubbing metal, but a squeak, definitely not a grind. After doing a bit of reading online, all points were aimed at the wheel bearings simply needing a regreasing, and I figured, hey, since I'll be out getting new wheel bearings, I may as well get new rotors. So, after about $125 at Auto Zone, I had me 2 front rotors, 2 inner and 2 outer wheel bearings with races, 2 seals, 2 jars of high temp wheel bearing grease, a seal puller, a set of brass taps just in case the rotors did not come with bearing races already in them, which luckily, they did come with, but just in case, and a packet of cotter pins. Time went by, wheel bearings done on both sides, drove around, dad took the car for the weekend, perfect, no more squeak, no worries...

Three weeks later, squeak is back, same kind of squeak, and just like before, gets louder the faster the car goes or the more the wheels are turned as they're moving. OK, that seemed a little odd, but it happens, so I go and re-do both sides, and low and behold, I drive the car around the block, everything's perfect, nice and quiet, car actually feels kind of better, but maybe it was just me.

Two more weeks go by, and....... here comes that squeak again! My first guess would be that I'm not greasing them enough, but I don't think that's what I did wrong because I packed those bearings with a special bearing packer from Sears, I rotated the rotor as I tightened the castle nut to make sure they sit right and spread grease all over inside, even after I put the castle nut on, I still stuffed even more grease in there, and still that noise comes back.

Now, a little side information. The first time, I had Timken bearings on both sides, the second time around, I have Timken in the right and NAPA brand in the left because there were no Timkens in stock, both sound equal. Upon inspection, the bearing races are smooth as silk and do not have indentations in them.

At this point, I'm considering just leaving them be, but you all know how one little imperfect thing can ruin the rest of the car and definitely make you feel like it has to be fixed, immediately. I want to fix them already because this is driving me up the wall here and I'm wondering if any of you guys could may be notice something that I missed or maybe you know a trick that I'm not aware of, any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Are you sure the squeak is not from the brake pads on the rotors? Each time you break it apart, you are messing with that as well to get the rotors off.

You did use lots of disc brake quiet on them right? If not, you at least should be using those aluminum pads to absorb the vibration.

You tried to lightly press the brakes while driving to see if the squeak goes away? If its bearings, the only way the brakes should affect a squeak is if the castle nut is too loose. I bet its the brakes.

After the brakes, I would be looking at u-joints next.

Also be sure there isn't a backing plate rubbing on a rotor, or the inside of the rim.
 
Hmm, that makes sense, and yea, I believe when I do press the brakes lightly so as to slow down gently, the noise fades, so I'll have to look into the brakes. Also, I heard this from an Auto Zone employee and I doubt it's true, but he said that when you buy new rotors, you have to have them rotated/cut by a shop even if there is no damage to them. Is that true?
 
Did you put new pads on the front when you did it the first time? No you don't need to get new rotors turned. Hope you put disc brake quiet on like tjthorson said.
Tarey D.
 
No, new rotors do not need to be turned, but it is a good idea to clean the grease and oil off of them before driving.

Get those aluminum shims and cut them to shape to the back of the pads. Use a small amount of disc brake quiet on both sides of the shims and glue it all together. Let it sit an hour or so before driving for that stuff to set-up.

If you can't get the shims, clean the mounting surfaces good with a wire brush, be sure the caliper pins are free and greased, and liberally apply the DBQ....

Enjoy!
 
Check your seals! As well as what was/is mentioned above.

Put a thin coat of grease on the lip (the part that actually pubs on the spindle) AND on the outside face of the seal (that faces towards the motor)

This happened to my Pathfinder. I brought it to a place to do the brakes and eliminate the squeak (which would happen anytime, brakes, no brakes etc) Still had it when I got it back. So I paid someone $225 for a job I fixed myself!!

I am going to be doing the same thing soon. IMHO, I would go with Federal Mogul bearings and seals.

I have seen new rotors out-of-the-box warped. We put them on a lathe just to see if they are true, this happened mostly with the FWD type rotors

Carry on!
 
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